KUIO18NNXS1 KitchenAid Ice Maker - Instructions

I completely broke down the unit cleaning or replacing any part with rust. The replacement grid assembly (cutter) came from partselect within days of ordering. I was able reassemble the unit with the new grid assemble. Now have fresh ice. Thanks Partselect... you made this do-it-your-selfer very HAPPY! My wife cannot beleive I got the unit back together.

Unplugged the unit. Removed 2 screws to remove front cover to access the cutter grid.removed 2 screws to the cutter grid, unsnapped power connector and removed broken grid. Slid new grid in place, reconnected power connector, replaced screws, plugged in ice maker and slid back in place. Very easy!!!

I thought the water bucket wasn't holding water because the icemaker continually was running - however, the crack didn't go through. The real issue was the Thermostat.

You've got to be able to sit or kneel and fit both arms in the unit for a while, so if you've got patience and ability, you can do it. If you have a battery operated screw driver with a nut and 6 star nut remover, this goes quicker.
Do not throw your old plug away, it doesn't come with a new one.

The hard part was getting the black thing (that attaches to the icebucket) back on. I had to go to Lowes and get a gasket and silicone grease to replace the one on it. I thought this was the reason it wouldn't go back on, because the gasket wouldn't fully fit back into the white hole.
I measured the diameter of that hole compared to the old one. It was slightly smaller and was not as smooth as my old one (it had manufacturing form lines and excess plastic that hadn't been removed)
I Dremeled it to increase the diameter, especially where the gasket was buckling out when trying to fit it on.
I finally got the black part back on.

I found later that it was cheaper somewhere else, however shipping charges are less and most parts are next day delivery.
I just ordered the thermostat. Wish me luck!

Removed and replaced sensor

Removed broke wire and replaced new wire. Use gloves to pull the wire tight. That's very important.

The real difficulty is removing the screws. Even with a nut driver the space available makes them difficult to remove. I went to the hardware store and replaced the screws with screwdriver slots for re-installation.

I took out old grid and removed the top broken wire. I attached the end of new wire to the terminal screw and carefully threaded the new wire back and forth without kinks. I was not able to get wire as tight as it was originally, but able to get it tight enough with pliers. I attached the other end to the opposite terminal screw. I had plenty of wire for the job and cut off the excess. I re-installed the grid and had ice the following morning. Feeling good about myself and saved a lot of money.

Found fault with recirculating pump. Found hot spot on pump circuit board . Replaced pump

bought 4 bottles for use this year and next. strongly recommend the product if you have an ice machine.

I replaced the two pumps, since both were the same design...figuring if one went bad then the other would soon go bad...and then I also replace the water level sensor. All had quick connect plugs. The time is just taking apart the various pieces, cleaning, installing the new pumps and sensor, then reassembling.

Bought new wire, strung it end to end and fastened it at each end.

Remove pump and hoses from bad bucket, removed bucket and install new bucket . To remove pump, remove screw holding pump and turn pump 1/4 turn. Be careful Putting new bucket back, can break hose if not careful. Good luck

Figured out You have to pop off the cocer than remove the 1/4 hex head screws only not the philips ones

Remove inside door trim plate. Then removed three screws that held in the light assembly. The only difficult thing was reconnecting the temperature adjustment rod. After replacing this rod you must slide the temperature control slide to midway and this hold the rod in place while reinstalling the light assembly. If I were to do it again it would probably take me half as long.

The thumbscrews that hold the cutter grid can only be removed by using a needle nose pliers , you cannot turn them by hand. The electrical connections for the grid and level sensor can be removed by pressing the front side of the connector while pulling down. Re-installing the cutter grid is in reverse to the removal, just follow the instructions. But be aware that all wiring remains outside the grid perimeter when reconnecting. One other thing: While you are at it, remove the lower outside panel to expose the evaporator coils which need to be vacuumed. Replacing these parts is tricky. I had to remove the door then loosely install the upper retainer bracket for the lower panel so I could slide the upper edge into that bracket before installing the lower screws. I used an ice pick to line up the holes while using a blade screwdriver to push the panel in its place to install the retaining screws. It took me about a half hour after I figured out what to do.