KUDU03STWH1 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

First, I viewed the video on the Partsselect website. I pulled the dishwasher from under the counter. When installing it, I had used a six-foot-long braided supply hose, so that didn't need to be disconnected. The drain hose was disconnected at the sink drain connection. Only the wiring connection had to be undone under the dishwasher, so ensure the power's off to the dishwasher. Changing the links was a matter of removing one screw on each side, pivoting the pulley assembly forward, removing it, reversing that procedure to install the new one, and hooking the link at both ends. The door works perfectly and silently now.

Unscrew machine fro counter top, pull it out of cabinetry, remove old pulley & bollard blocks, install new ones, hook new string to spring, run through pulleys. Then, the only trick: I used one of the old broken cords to extend the spring so i had slack in the new line so it could be hooked in place. Hook the broken cord on the spring after connecting the new cord, then pull on it with one hand while positioning the new cord with the other. A major unexpected bonus of doing this repair was that that the design of the pulley block had been improved so now each block uses two pulleys instead of a pulley and a bollard. This makes opening and closing the door nearly silent, where as before there was some friction where the string rubbed over the bollard and that set up a resonance in the spring that was quite loud.

Reviewed the owners manual trouble shooting guide. Determined control panel was faulty. Ordered wrong part to begin with (my mistake). Returned wrong part (return was very easy, PartSelect staff very helpful) and placed order for new control panel. New part arrived in 4 business days. Removed outer door panel, removed old control panel (no tools needed, its held in with plastic clips)moved ribbon wiring to new control panel and reassembled. Works great! Best part is I saved $200 by not using a service technician.

I removed front bottom cover on dishwasher. The drain pump is on right front side. Very easy to remove and to install a new pump.

Remove the 2 screws at top bracket to counter pull out dishwasher to unplug turn off water remove 2 access nuts for front panel removed water supply line remove 1 access nut for valve assembly then remove electrical connector. Reverse to install.

Well after trouble shooting several components , the fill valve, the check valve , the pump motor all it turned out to be is the supply line to the dishwasher. I had installed one of those lines with an anti flood check valve in the line. Thinking it was a smart idea so if I were not home it would keep from flooding my basement etc. even when you remove the line and run it into a bucket you still get flow. But unknown to myself a majority of your appliances do not work well with these lines because when the solenoid opens it causes a surge and the check valve tries to restrict the flow. After soapy of these surges the valve sticks . When I replaced the line with a standard supply line it solved the problem. So for about $15.00 you could save yourself a lot of headaches and money by replacing that first. I'm not saying it will be the solution but start there first even if your getting water flow through that line. By the way the manufacturer of those lines at least the one I bought less than 5 montages ago do not mention that on their package and by the time you come to that conclusion you may have spent a lot of money trying to fix your machine. I had three techs that couldn't figure it out. Also the machine I have is a kitchen aid but its a common problem on a lot of brands including washing machines for clothes.

Found the part on PartSelect webpage. It described the part correctly. The ordering process was flawless and the part arrived in a timely manner. The part fit properly and the dishwasher is good to go. I recommend PartSelect most highly.

The instructions were perfect & easy to follow. So I followed the instructions & in 20 min I was done, longest part was taking dishwasher apart, at the top, 6 Allen wrench screws. Easy to install, fast shipping & a perfect fit!

The dishwasher had to be pulled from under the countertop and the face at the base of the dishwasher required removal. The new piece was attached to the door spring, routed through the wheels and attached to the front attach point of the dishwasher. The face was reinstalled and unit was pushed back to under the countertop.

There were actually slots cut in the side to place a screw driver to strentch the spring to attach it to the cord and plastic end. But the spring would not stretch far enough so took the intiative and drilled another hole to place screw driver and pry the spring far enough to attach the replacement piece. After that it was done. Fairly easy as you have the other side of the appliance to look at and can tell how the hidge on the side that needed repair should go. Very very easy after hole was drilled in frame.

Diagnosing the problem was the hard part. Once the problem was determined to be this faulty float assembly, replacing it was easy. The float assembly simply inserts to the bottom of the dishwasher beneath the bottom rack.

I simply disconnected the power line to the dishwasher and pulled it out enough to install the mounting brackets. The installation manual that came with the dishwasher described how to install the brackets and I simply followed directions.

1) turn off electrical power (at main breaker box), 2) remove both upper and lower racks, 3) place towel over the inside bottom of dishwasher (to catch any parts that might fall), 4) remove the Philips screw from the top of the feed tube (the plastic part onto which the spinner attaches), 5) pull down slightly on the feed tube and remove the plastic rivet, 6) insert a new plastic rivet (head up) into the hole of the feed tube, 7) Position the new spinner under the feed tube and then snap the spinner and plastic rivet together, 8) reinstall the Philips screw into the top of the feed tube, 9) remove the towel and put racks back into dishwasher, 10) turn power back on.

There were a few possible causes for the problem. We started by making sure we didnt have a simple clog somewhere in the line. A pair of plyers and a screwdriver were the only tools I needed to check the water line in. Just turned the water off pullesd the dishwasher out and started checking lines. We couldnt test the inlet water valve except with a volt ohm meter so we left that and moved on to the float. The float seemed to be moving freely so we pulled the float switch out. I could easly see some electrical damage to the float switch and ordered the part from part select. Part took about 3 days to arrive and was a very simple switchout. We turned the water back on and and started the machine. All working.

I took out the roller trays, removed upper wash plumbing, and lower drain cover parts. I found out Scotchbrite clogged and damaged the screen and blade. R&R'ed both parts and now the dishwasher is like new again