KUDI01ILBL6 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Watched video and followed instructions. Only difference was that arm was held by screws instead of clamps as mentioned in video.

Well, I could not afford a repairman, so when I learned that their was a fuse kit in the dishwasher. I decided to start there. I ordered a fuse kit from PARTSELECT, got the part the next day and installed it myself inside control panel. BINGO,DISHWASHER FIXED,I WASHED A LOAD OF DISHES !! HAPPY :)

snapped on new wheel done

Pulled dishwasher out, laid it down on its back. that made eaiser to get to the motor. Pulled the motor off then put the new motor on.

Just followed the video. Seemed simple enough but the bolt location was different so had to watch the video again paying specific attention to the part where he tells you to use the old bolts to replace the new pulley system. The new pulley system already has a bolt in the top pulley. You will need to old bolt through the bottom pulley. Works great - for now.

removed end fitting on upper dish rack guide rail with finger nails, then removed broken part(wheel) from rail and install new bracket assembly...connecting rail to dish rack

Triped electric breaker, disconected hoses, removed two retaining screws, pulled unit from under counter and turned on side, removed hoses and two electric "Pigtails" then retaining screw and lifted out. Replaced with new valve, and machine, in reverse order.

Remove kick panel, shut the water off, loosen/remove the water supply line, remove screws securing cabinet into counter, slide out, replace the door balances and springs on both sides, re assemle as removed, done deal! Door closes better than when it was new!

To begin, I unscrewed the 10-12 screws. You do not need to unscrew the screws on the sides (if you have them) they simply hold the panel to the door hinges and do not affect the panels to come apart. Truth be told, it originally took longer than 15-30 minutes, but that's because I was doing this all wrong at first -- which has much reason why I'm posting a comment. My dishwasher panels were stuck together, much like Mike from Austin, TX. I decided this was not the way the manufacturer built this dishwasher because no technician would be able to fix it either, if so. We used heat to fix the problem. Running the dishwasher heated the sticky styrofoam so that, although it still stuck, it was easier to pry apart once warmed. SO-- after washing, we unscrewed everything, then gently pulled the door panels apart, you do have to lift up a bit as it does rest on a hook. Then after that it was as simple as everyone says, unscrew the 6 hex screws, remount the new dispenser, replace the wires (blue/black goes on the inside, solid blue on the outside), then replace the panel. **if you need pictures, there are youtube videos available, BUT, they will not show you how to pull off the sticky styrofoam, just so you know ;-).

After watching the DIY video, I purchased the Door Balance Link Kit and did the repair myself. It went almost exactly as the video explained. The only problem was that I had a new tile floor installed AFTER the dishwasher (DW) was installed. First, I removed the kick-plate (the metal "seal" plate and pad on the bottom), the 2 Mounting Bracket Screws from under the counter, and turned off the hot water (shut-off valve located under the sink). I had to tilt the DW forward while lifting it over the 1/4-3/8" difference in floor height in order to slide it out from the cabinet. (This should normally not be an issue.) Once out, I removed the screw from the (link) mount, rotated the mount (bottom half towards the front of the DW) removing it, and unhooked the link from the spring (attached to the frame at the rear). I fed the new link through the new mount before attaching the mount to the DW. Next, I gently stretched the spring forward attaching the link to it. I then changed the mount and link on other side. The DW was then pushed back into the cabinet, taking care to keep the insulation in place and not kink or bend any hoses or wires behind it. The Mounting Bracket Screws and kick-plate were then reattached and the water turned back on. The entire operation took less than 30 minutes and probably saved me $150-$200 in service call charges.

Pulled the machine out and repaired it. Perfect.

The best way to do the repair is watch the video. Because the replacement part was newer than the original it was configured a bit different. The video CLEARLY explained that so it eliminated any angst.

This was the first time I did business with PartSelect but I guarantee you it won’t be the last.
1. They tell you what part to purchase
2. They ship it to you fast
3. The VIDEO gives you clear step by step instruction

First, I viewed the video on the Partsselect website. I pulled the dishwasher from under the counter. When installing it, I had used a six-foot-long braided supply hose, so that didn't need to be disconnected. The drain hose was disconnected at the sink drain connection. Only the wiring connection had to be undone under the dishwasher, so ensure the power's off to the dishwasher. Changing the links was a matter of removing one screw on each side, pivoting the pulley assembly forward, removing it, reversing that procedure to install the new one, and hooking the link at both ends. The door works perfectly and silently now.

removed the control panel, disconnected 2 wires, replaced the handle in its subassembly, and then reassembled

Unscrew machine fro counter top, pull it out of cabinetry, remove old pulley & bollard blocks, install new ones, hook new string to spring, run through pulleys. Then, the only trick: I used one of the old broken cords to extend the spring so i had slack in the new line so it could be hooked in place. Hook the broken cord on the spring after connecting the new cord, then pull on it with one hand while positioning the new cord with the other. A major unexpected bonus of doing this repair was that that the design of the pulley block had been improved so now each block uses two pulleys instead of a pulley and a bollard. This makes opening and closing the door nearly silent, where as before there was some friction where the string rubbed over the bollard and that set up a resonance in the spring that was quite loud.