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I simply had to hook up the power cord to the dishwasher so i could plug it into the outlet rather than direct wire the appliance. Everything went very smoothly. Everything needed for installation other than tools was provided. Easy to follow instructions if you know a little about electrical wiring.
Factory crimped end of link cord pulled out of plastic fastner that hooks on door.
Removed 2 screws that fasten dishwasher to underside of countertop. Pulled dishwasher out from under the countertop for access to sides. Hooked link on door, threaded cord around 2 wheels, hooked spring to back of dishwasher, stretched spring and hooked to eye on end of link cord. I found it very difficult to hook spring to link then try and stretch spring to hole at back of dishwasher. Easier to pull spring and link towards each other and connect. Note: This link was actually different from the original. The plastic end that connects to the door actually hits the first wheel when door is closed but it doesn't seem to prevent the door from locking properly (old design was better). However, I shaved this plastic end to provide better clearance.
First, I bought the door balance link to replace the broken links that connect to the springs.
Because I didn't have enough slack to simply pull out the dishwasher far enough to reach the springs, I had to disconnect the water line and electrical wiring. The only reason my repair took as long as it did was because there was so little room underneath the dishwasher for disconnecting the water line. I had to buy a shorter adjustable wrench. Also, I had leaks after reconnecting the water line. I had to tighten the compression nut as far as it would go. The nut wrapped around a white substance that had been applied to the threads (I believe this is called pipe tape), which did the trick for sealing the leak.
The repair was a complete success! The parts arrived fast and the information from other customers on the the PartsSelect website was invaluable.
thought it could be due to the overfill control switch,so ordered one and replaced one in the washer. However, it did not solve the problem. Having a repair company coming to look at the dishwasher. Tipped the washer on its back and switch was readily accessable. Only had to open plastic covering over the switch, disconnect the wires and install new switch and reconnect the wires.
No instructions provided; Star driver included but useless
This repair is simple. However, what you recieve is a box of loose parts and no instructions. The new parts are not remotely the same design as the original. You have to figure out how to remove the old parts (fairly easy by careful prying) but then sort out what the new parts do and how they fit together. It takes patience and some mechanical knowledge. Once you figure it out, it goes quickly. A fairly simple diagram included with the parts would be definite benefit for most people. It seemed like an odd omission. They also include the shortest star driver (about 1 inch long) I have ever seen for the 4 screws but it is useless since you can't really apply enough torque to the screws to properly set them. Be prepared with a standard length star driver.
Pulled upper tray out. Removed old adjusters and replaced with new. The pictures in the installation instructions were bad (blurry and hard to distinguish). Had problems with the first side button. Put it in before installing the wheel base on the second side. Went much easier that way. You did need a star tip for the screws.
Watch your video about my dishwasher symptoms. Move water tube for upper rack to the right and release lower spray arm. Remove 4 clutch head screws from filter cover and remove. Dig out 10 years of undisolved soap and reassemble.
I Removed the upper wash rack by removing locks on each front slide of rack. I laid a towel in the bottom of the washer to keep anything dropped, retrievable. I then removed the top screw closest to the spinner location. I then carefully pulled down on the mounting, which exposed the bad bushing lock. I removed the old bushing lock and replaced with new one. I then replaced the spinner with a push with one hand while holding the bushing in place with the other hand. You will feel a snap as all goes into place. Make sure new spinner spins freely. Now reinstall removed screw. Do not over tighten. Now reinstall lower rack, carefully aligning water feed in rear of washer, and making sure all rollers are back in sliding rack. Reinstall locking tabs onto sliding rack. Now slide out rack, it should not come off slider. Important: now remove the towel in the bottom of the washer. If left in place, you will have a fire during the drying cycle. Close the door and test your washer through a cycle. I felt confident and did a load of dishes. If all went well, spinner should be in place, not in the bottom of the washer.
After cleaning the filter basket & metal grill (floor of dishwasher), I neglected to secure the bottom spray arm. It came loose, landed on the heating coil, and melted.
I simply removed the melted spray arm, then set the new spray arm in place, twisted the built-in securing nut (clockwise to its stop), and it worked without any problems.