Upper rack not cleaning-whole dishwasher not cleaning
Used bowls in upright position in upper shelf determining no water to upper shelf after running in rinse cycle. Added a cup of Vinegar in rinse cycle. Performed bowl test in upper rack & still no water in bowls. Dismantled inside of unit by removing both spray arms & found lower seal deteriorated & upper seal in need of replacing. Replaced seals & redid bowl test & found no water getting to top rack still. Found utube vid showing removing garbage disposal portion of unit. Requires removing screen in bottom of dishwasher. One screw attaches garbage disposal cover. Found non food items & food by broken garbage disposal. Repaired disposal, removed debri & reinstalled all components. Redid bowl test in upper shelf & bowls were overflowing!!????Dishwasher works GREAT now & can hear garbage disposal operating along with massive water being sprayed!!!
With a little pressure, I was able to push off the broken wheel pieces with my thumbs. I was able to snap on the new wheel pieces really easily. This job took less than 15 minutes to replace all 4 wheel pieces.
Motor was making a loud noise for several months, then quit
Killed the power and shut off the water. Unhooked and unplugged power, hot water and drain connections to move washer to middle of floor for easy access to all sides. Taking out the the main pump/motor assembly (the "Assembly")required taking out the flat white hot water tube that feeds the upper and middle sprayers. So, I started by taking out the two trays. Then, took out the lower, middle and upper sprayers. Then, tipped the dishwasher onto its front and disconnected the hoses and several electrical connections from the Assembly. Also, unhooked the drain pump motor and impeller from the Assembly since these are not included with the new Assembly. Took out the three sliding retainers to release the Assembly from the bottom of the dishwasher. Took a little gentle coaxing to release the seal between the Assembly and the tub bottom. Took the Assembly apart and found that the problem was the shaft bearing (ball bearings) between the motor and the impeller had rusted and subsequently failed. Therefore, buying just a new motor would have not helped. Inserted the new Assembly into place from inside the tub. Because of the tight seal, the Assembly had to be carefully placed into the tub opening and the seal gently pushed into place by working all the way around in 1 inch intervals. Took about three trips around the seal of the Assembly to ensure a tight, even fit. Otherwise, working unevenly around the perimeter will bind the Assembly and you'll have to remove it and restart. Once in and seated evenly in its place, reconnected the hoses and electrical connections. Installed the drain pump motor and impeller onto the new Assembly. Tested the unit for proper operation and leaks. Found no problems. Then re-installed the water tube, sprayers and trays inside the machine. Helps to jot down steps taken to disassemble so you retrace steps to re-assemble.
Kids loved to make squeaky sounds opening and closing the doors, finally snapped the door balance link on one side.
1) clear out the dishwasher 2) remove unit securing screws from top or sides of DW and cabinetry near the top or under the counter top 3) gently pull the dishwasher from the cabinetry about 20" is plenty, mind the connecting hoses and electrical connection 4) close the door! pull back the insulation from the area of the hinge and photograph both sides - this will save you the pain of going online 5) you will see the cord, the tensioning wheel assembly and the door balance spring on both sides 6) with the door closed to relieve tension on the cord, remove the cord from the balance spring - this can be done w/o tools at this point 7) remove the 5/16" screw from the plastic tensioning wheels and remove the tensioners, cord - leave the springs in place if not replacing them 8) install the door end of the cord to its hook on the hinge, install the new tensioning wheel assembly, install the old 5/16" self tapping screw through the lower wheel and into the outer hole in the frame 9) thread the cord from the door over the upper wheel and lower wheel. the lower wheel has cord retaining tabs to hold the cord on the assembly 10) hook the eye end of the cord to the balance spring and you are finished with the first side - repeat operations for the other side, reposition the insulation and slide the washer back in its cavity - do not forget to reinstall the stabilizing screws in the upper washer frame 11) you've done it! 12) have a cuppa and do your second washer that hasn't failed yet - it will soon.
Pull the old seal out and push the new seal in. Done. Easy. The only issue is the door is still leaking and I have to replace the seal and the plate that goes across the bottom of the door.
Order both this seal and the seal for the bottom of the door at the same time.
Follow the u tube instruction. Replacing the pump was very simple and easy. The hard part was getting the dishwasher out of the cabinet and back in again.
First remove the front kick panel by removing 2 philips screws. Turn off the water supply, and then disconnect the supply line if not of the flexible kind. Mine was copper. Remove 2 screws holding dishwasher to counter top and pull machine out. Open door and attach replacement link by hooking the plastic end to the hinge hook on the door side and then place the string portion round the plastic pulleys and then attach the other end of the link to the end of the spring attached to the rear of the machine along the bottom side. Push dishwasher back into position, reattach supply line and re-install both screws attaching the machine to the counter top. Turn on the water supply and check for leaks. Place the kick plate into postion and secure using the 2 philips screws that were removed.
The dishwasher is has been in service only 18 months and the seal between the motor and pump leaked, destroying the front motor bearing.
Rather than just replacing the motor and seal, I figured it would be just as easy to replace the sump and pump assembly also. It makes sense because the extra cost is minimal and I have a completely new unit now. The repair is quite simple. Just three clips holding the sump and a few electrical connectors and the unit comes right out.
Very simple just remove the rakes and then unscrew the covers and pop out the old chopper assembly and replace with the new and then just put all cover back and it works great.
