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3 inches of frost in Fridge, 72 degrees in Fridgerator
First defrosted it to makes sure all Air flow was opened. Tested the Defroster heater with omh meter, it was OK. Found the location of the defrost timer on the online diagrams. Used nut driver to remove cover. Replaced timer. The hardest part was decieding how to wire it up, tis was a universal kit and depending on how it was wired as to how often the defrost ran. The firt choice was every 8 hours. Since this was going to be opened often, I picked that one. Plugged it with in 24 hrs freezer wall mesured -5 and the fridge was at 30, so had to warm it up a bit. Now all complaints gone, Ice making has been doing better also.
Ordered shelf support stud kit. Product was promptly delivered, and contained the parts as shown on website. Took longer to open the package than to replace the missing shelf support bracket. No problems. Would order from them again.
Easy fix First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires assembly was the reverse. and the beverages never got warm..
Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced. reassembled the pieces.
First took all frozen food out and than undid the screws that held back on--than cut the wires that held the piece and replaced it but also found that the plug was frozen so we thawed that out, that is why it took longer. Used air compressor to blow air and it broke it free and than we finished and put the food back after it got cold. So far it is working find and to beat all we received our part the next day so my husband could fix it that weekend--Thank you for the quick respond- Patricia in Marengo Ohio
I first unplugged the unit. Secondly I unscrewed the back panel and removed it. Third, I unplugged the fan, unscrewed it, removed it, and replaced it with the new fan motor. I then plugged it to confirm that it worked and then put everything back together.
Lower Light Socket removed and Wires capped with wire nuts
My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.
After discovering that the water noise was coming from the rear of the refridgerator upon pulling it foward I discivered the connection line had broken. So i got a phillips screw driver and removed the the two mounting screws and saw it was one piece. I easliy found the part on PartSelect website and once I got I merely swaped them out and it works good as new!
this is a snap! 2 screws an a nut to tighten and it works like a charm. the filler tube in my Kenmore refer had broken off in the back. ( really bad location to put this in the beginning) if you push the refer to close to the wall you can break it off easily. remove the water line by loosing the nut and remove the hose from the fill tube ( This assumes you have already turned of the water supply or you are standing in a large puddle)remove the 2 screws that hold the filler tube in place. pull out the old filler tube in and slightly upright motion. replace the new fill tube into the same hole and replace the screws. replace the hose and tighten the nut, turn the water back on and check for leaks your done !! doesn't that feel great?
got the icemaker kit and started to add it to the frig found problems with the adaption to the frig in back for water filler tube but was able to make it fit. had to make a connection outside to water line with copper pipe added to hose with claps and saddle valve, turned it on and had leaks due to the schedule copper was the thin wall type, got thicker type and installed it, no leaks, started making ice. it was nice to get the right kit to make things work out. thanks
most of the time spent on repair was removing the food from freezer compartment other than that removal of a couple screws and disconnecting and reconnecting wires not a huge ordeal
Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!
Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!