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Ice buildup on the bottom of the freezer, water dripping into the refrigerator
After unplugging the refrigerator, I used a hairdryer to melt the ice sufficiently to be able to remove the freezer rear panel with a nutdriver. I also removed the ice-maker for easier access to the components behind the panel, using a nutdriver. Once the panel was removed I melted more ice at the bottom of the evaporator housing. After partially melting the ice in the drain tube, I poured hot water down the drain tube until it cleared, signaled by the sound of the water dripping into the drain pan. I next removed the clip-on Bimetal thermostat from the copper line going into the evaporator and snipped the two wires to remove it. I installed the replacement thermostat with crimp-style connectors and pull-tested them. I also replaced the timer board that is located below the freezer, below the top shelf, using a nutdriver. I replaced the circuit board as a precaution that the thermostat may not have caused the problem. I didn't change the heater inside the freezer as it checked out to have the same resistance as a new one. I tested the removed thermostat using a glass of ice water but it remained in the open condition, using an ohmmeter. (I later checked that thermostat after the freezer was running and it did close, and returned it to the open position by heating it under the hot water faucet. I suspect that it didn't work properly, or the timer control board was faulty). After re-installing the back panel and ice-maker and plugging the refrigerator into the power receptacle, it worked very well, and has done so since the repair.
The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold. Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out. Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold. Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold. Attach the new mold on to the control module. WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there. Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.
I looked up the refrigerator on the internet and found this website. I got the diagram of the parts of the icemaker and found that the valve must be defective because no water was coming up to the icemaker. I ordered the part which came the next day. Took out the screws, conected the water line to the new part. moved the electrical connection to the new part and we had ice. Saved a lot of money that the plumber would have cost.
old valve was not shutting off fully, flooding ice-maker, creating a glacier
Shut off water supply, removed old valve (two screws, 1/4' nut driver), disconnect electrical plug, remove water lines (adjustable wrench). Cut fitting off tube to ice-maker (new unit has a push-to-connect fitting). Replace water lines and electrical connector. Mount valve back on cabinet. Turn water back on.
Ice maker stopped working after less than six months
After checking all connections I determined the ice maker which had been replaced on 01/2007 stopped making ice. I had serviceman from a local company return and check the ice maker. He rinsed the ice maker under warm water, melting the ice build-up and re-installed the ice maker. I watched him do the re-installation, then waited for two days to see if the ice maker was functioning. Since the ice maker wasn't working, I called the serviceman, who in turn informed me that the replacement ice maker had increased in price from $170.00 to $274.00. That is when I contacted your web site, ordered the replacement ice maker. I was totally amazed and pleased by the fast, easy, and efficient way my order was processed and the ice maker was delivered. I followed the instructions included with the ice maker, and installed the replacement ice maker in about 20 minutes. I can't thank you enough for the great service. I only wish I had checked my computer after the first ice maker broke down and found your web site.
Removed the two screws that hold flaping door. Removed the single screw that covers the connecting wires. Disconnected the wiring plug. I wiggled out the ice maker. Took off the motor cover. Swapped out one motor for the other. Reinstalled the icemaker in the resverse order of removal. Note the wiring plug in the freeze is very from. It makine s the reconnection differcult.
First I removed the back cover then removed 3 nuts holding the motor. Next I removed the two wires. Next I attached new connectors to the wires and installed the new motor and everything worked perfect!
Service and shipping were fantastic! I would definitely use Partselect again!
We have a side-by-side and the tutorial was different than what we have. Had trouble getting cover off, but finally repaired and WE HAVE ICE! Also took longer than expected. Saved a lot!
I have replaced the circuit board, the condenser fan motor but the unit still will not feeze correctly. The bottom of the unit freezes but just barely cools the rest of the freezer and ice box. Have you got any other advice that might help. This is a side by side unit. What else could be the problem. It seems that the fan is not working correctly or it is stuck in defrost mode. The coils where the fan is seem to be icing up but it will not let the fan work. THanks for your help, David Wilson
All three lights are not working...lights are off but refrigerator still cooling. Also, the control box not lit up to show the temparture for freezer and refrigerator
Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.
The wiring harness was a straightfoward plug in replacement after depressing the securing tabs, and did provide power to the icemaker. However, the icemaker would continually cycle, with the mold heater on at all times. I suspect this is what caused the thermal fuse to blow in the first place. Rather than spend more time replacing individual components, I eneded up replacing the full ice maker assy. The new ice maker works properly.
Easy removal. Easy Plug and play install. Didn't even have to use the other wires. After install, put 4 oz of water into ice maker and wait....it didn't start making ice right away, but a couple hours later I heard the wonderful "ice dropping into the bin" sound. Worked great ever since.