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Ice Dispenser flap would not close-delay mechanism quit working
The hardest part of this job was removing the front cover over the water and ice dispensing unit.
Step 1: remove front cover by inserting flat head screwdriver into one of small slots on the bottom side of the cover. Push up firmly, but not too hard (don't beak the plastic cover). As you are pushing up, slightly pry the bottom edge away from refrigerator door. Then, do the same for the other side. Step 2: Now with both edges slghtly pried away for door, you will now need to use your hands and apply an upward pressure on the cover. (Understand that there are three tabs on the top side of the cover that must come about 1/4" out of slots on the top side of the door.) Try wiggling the cover, while applying upward pressure. You may find the door handle restricting one of the tabs, but you can slide the cover to the side to get it out. Step 3: with the cover removed, now you can use the nut driver to remove the one (1) screw that holds the mechanism in place. Be sure to see how it fits over the dispensing lever.
Step 4: Install the new delay mechanism by inserting the prong over the dispensing lever and seat into place. Insert screw and tighten. Step 5: ensure that you installed the device properly by actuating the ice dispenser. If everything is OK, proceed to next step. If not, make sure you installed it correctly. Step 6: Reinstall front cover by insering the three upper tabs into slots at the top of the dispensing area. Apply downward pressure with your hands, then push the bottom side of the cover in. You should hear them snap into place. Step 7: Dispense ice into a glass, add water, and enjoy your finsihed project
The replacement valve was identical to the old one, so I didn't have to use any of the adapter parts sent with the new valve. This made the installation rather simple. After removing the back cover on the lower part of the refrigerator, I turned off the water and electrical supplies, and removed the water supply line to the valve. Then I removed the two screws securing the valve to the refrigerator. Next, I removed the two electrical connections from the valve, and unscrewed the plastic nuts holding the tubing to the valve. I didn't have to use a wrench to do this as they were hand tight, so when I attached the tubing to the new valve I tightened the nuts hand tight. This seemed to be sufficient and avoided the possibility of stripping the nuts. After checking for leaks, I attached the electrical connections and secured the new valve to the refrigerator. Then I attached the water supply line, but before replacing the back cover, I turned on the refrigerator, and let it cycle through it's first load of ice.
First of all it's nice to have an exploded view of the ice/water dispenser. First remove the trim around the ice'water dispenser by carfully prying the bottom out and popping the trim up to release the top. Remove the 2 screws that hold the light switch and light, move out and to the right, do not disconnect. Remove the 2 hex screws that hold the old arm in place. This will allow the arm to drop down so you can remove the arms' ice guide. The arm has a spring for tension on the right side. Remove it and retain. Above the water dispenser is a screw that holds the ice door closer spring, remove this screw and slide out the spring loaded closer Loosen the right screw that holds the water dispenser, it is spring loaded. You should now have room to remove the old ice dispenser arm. Slide the new arm up into place behind the ice dispenser door install the spring tensioner to the right side mount screw at the same time align it with the left side of the water dispenser arm. The ice dispenser arm and the water dispenser arm share this mount so both arms have to be in place in order for the arms to work properly. Install the left mount and screw of the ice dispenser arm Install the ice dispenser arm's ice guide using the screw removed earlier. Next reinstall the Ice door tensioner spring and screw making sure the metal arm of the ice door is engaged in the slot of the tensioner. Finally reinstall the screws to the light swithch and light bar and snap the trim back into place.
I loosened all the screws around the perimeter of the door and pulled the old gasket out. While doing this, the new gasket had been sitting in warm water so it would become more flexible. I then started at the top of the door sliding the new gasket under the retainer and worked my way down the sides and across the bottom. After this, I tightened the screws a little at a time until they were all tight.
refrigerator door was making a popping noise when opening and closing
Not being a handyman I found this job realtively easy.I took most of stuff off fridge door, to make door easier to handle. I then undid top hinge door screws, 3 of them, lifted door out., replaced 2 cams.When putting door back on fridge, you have to make sure door is in exact position and top hinge is lined up exactly, or door will continue to pop a little.It took me a couple of times to get top hinge lined up exactly.
At age 65 I have never attempted to repair a refrigerator, until now. It took longer than needed because I did not read these articles carefully. Please note that when you open the door and the light blinks twice, waits a second and blinks again, the optics are working fine. I ordered an emitter and receiver when I didn't need to. I sent it back, the money was refunded, and ordered the ice maker. I replaced the old icemaker by removing three screws and slipping it out of its holder.
Here is how I found out I needed the new ice maker. I took the supply line apart that runs down the back of the refrigerator. I blew through it without any trouble. This told me that the line was not frozen within the refrigerator. I put the supply line back together, and jumped the solenoid that was connected to the supply line at the bottom right of the refrigerator. My model is the side by side, so it has two solenoids. The solenoid that runs the water to the dispenser in the door was always running, so I knew if there was a problem it would be with the ice maker solenoid. So, how did I jump the solenoid. Kids, don't try this at home. I disconnected the wiring harness to the solenoid by pulling it straight out. Then I took the female end of an extension chord and placed a twelve two electrical wire with the ends stripped into the positive and negative slots. I then jumped the solenoid. Water ran to the ice maker, but there still wasn't any ice made. Since the optics and the solenoid were working it seemed to me that the ice maker wasn't doing it's part. There are easier ways to check the solenoid in this forum, but this worked for me. I saved a lot of money and the parts got here quickly.
The gooseneck on the icemaker fill tube extends out beyond the back cabinet of the refrigerator, and is easily broken. Luckily, this part is a piece of cake to replace. You'll literally spend more time pulling out your fridge and cleaning out behind it then you will replacing this part.
Shut off water supply line, and turn off ice maker (lift the metal bar in the ice bucket all the way up). Loosen the hose fitting, and remove two screws. Pull out the old tube, and slide the new one in. You may have to wiggle the tube around from the inside to get the alignment correct. Replace screws and fitting. Turn water and ice maker back on, and check for leaks. It really is that easy! It took me longer to type this than to actually replace the part.
Only one potential catch. The instructions warn that you may have to cut the new tube to match the length of the old tube, so make sure you compare the length of the old and new tube. I didn't have to to do anything - the replacement part was the exact same length of the original. If by chance you do need to cut the tube, you'll need small saw of some sort, such as a coping or hack saw.
Removed ice bin then pulled front cover with nut driver . Pull small rod from side ( one screw holding rod and spring). Pull auger out. Take plastic nut off end ( CLOCKWISE) LEFT HAND THREAD. Keep all ice crusher blades in order when you pull them off. Install new auger and reverse steps. web site has exploded view. It looks difficult but it isn't.
1. Removed the cardboard cover. 2. Removed the terminal block and unplugged the old motor. 3. Removed three screws that held old motor to the bracket. 4. Removed the fan blade from the old motor. 5. Installed the fan blade (after cleaning) to the new motor. 6. Crimped on new wire terminals onto the leads on the new motor. 7. Installed the new motor using the fasteners provided. 8. Plugged the new motor wires onto the proper terminals in the terminal block. 9. remounted the terminal block. 10. reinstalled the cardboard cover.
Removed screws from front of ice container,replaced drum. The hardest part was assembly of ice crusher,lucky the arms were lettered as to how they went back together.
While investigating a water leak I discovered the condenser fan seized. I removed the fan to prevent a fire and ordered the part. The hardest part was identifying the correct fan. That took longer than the installation. I cut the wires and spliced in the new motor. It rotated correctly and I replaced the crill. Done Total time of ice maker water leak repair and fan replacement about 1 hour.
The shelf studs were broken and needed to be replaced. Searching online as to how to remove a number of sources said to turn stud 90deg counter-clockwise to remove. These studs needed to be turned 180 degrees. Once studs were out obvious this needed to be done. Re-insert of studs were easy.
I wasn't sure the kit included the part I needed from the pictures, but it did. The part slipped over the flat plastic bracket attached to the right freezer wall and the shelf fit over it. No tools required.
Parts went right into place as the pictures showed and was working again in about 30 minutes. The only thing that wasn't working was the ice took forever to make, but solved that problem by turning up the temp in the freezer.
