KGST307FBL0 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Pulled insulation out of the way to feed wires through. Might have helped to tie pull string to old wires but fishing them through was not to difficult.No need to cut wires; it is not a good idea to make unnecessary splices.

Looked online and found it was probably the igniter which wasn't firing. An incredibly gratifying and easy experience with the self-fix. Worked on the first try just like new.

I searched Whirlpool, Sears and random appliance stores and Part Select was the only company to have the lens available. All other manufacturers said the lens was no longer manufactured as a stand alone piece and I would have to buy the entire light assembly. Thank you Parts Select!!!!!

Replacing an oven igniter is one of the easiest repairs you can make to your oven. There are two igniters - one for the broiler and one for the oven itself. Oven Igniter: Start by removing the rear panel of the oven which attaches with a couple screws. Inside the oven, remove the "butterfly" shaped heat deflector (over the flame tube) which attaches with four screws. You now have access to the igniter. Remove the two screws which attach it to the bracket. On the rear of the oven, unplug the two spade connectors. Pull the igniter out from the front of the oven. Fish the wires for the new igniter through the same hole. Plug the 2 new wires back in. You can't mess this up - the wires have matching connectors and you can't get them confused. The broiler igniter is a little more complicated. You will have to remove the side panel of the oven to reach one of the connectors. It's just a couple more screws. The procedure is the same, but the wires are much harder to "fish" through the hole though. Unscrew the broiler igniter from the bracket and unplug the wires. Before you pull them out, attach a length of clothes hanger so that you pull the hanger into the oven from the rear. This way you can attach the new wires to the hanger and then pull them through to the back of the oven. If you don't attach something when you pull the old wires out, it is very hard to fish the wires for the broiler igniter to the rear of the oven. Good Luck!

Remove the bottom panel and confirmed that the igniter was not lighting. Unsrcrew the igniter from the housing in the oven, then removed the back of the range and unplugged two leads from their conections and ran the wires through the insulated back wall of the oven. To replace the part just did the opposite of above. Piece of Cake. Want to say also that I was astounded at the speed in which I received my part. Ordered it at 3:30 PM on Friday afternoon and received it by 10 AM Saturday. And with standard delivery! Thanks!

I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.

I very simply replaced the gasket where it belonged and I was good to go!

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

Very simple, cleaned out what was remaining of the old rubber feet and just pushed these in. I didn't bother glueing them in as I didn't feel they would fall out. If they do, I'll go out and obtain the glue that is mentioned by others in this thread. Very satisfied.

Removed two screws that attach the oven lighter to the burner. Removed the cover from the back side of the oven (3 screws). Unplugged the two wires from the end of the lighter. I taped a piece of string to the wire ends and pulled the unit out. Taped the new wires to the string, and pulled them back through the insulation. Reattached everything and THE OVEN LIT. Thanks, PartSelect, You saved me an expensive service call. Also, the replacement part arrived in less than 24 hours!

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

I got the new wheel and screwed it in by hand. It took like 4 minutes total between taking out the drawer, screwing the new wheel on, and putting the drawer back in

Replacing the igniter took care of the problem. I just wish I had made better notes about how the wire were routed. It would have saved time as I re-assembled everything. Th ejob itself was really easy.

removed one screw lifted he brner took retainer off unpluged the igniter it had broken porcelen reversed the procedure everything worked fine

The oven light gasket had deteriorated with time and bulb changes. It is a self cleaning oven, which gets very hot during the cleaning cycle. The oven is old (27years) and off the "books" I selected a similar, but slightly smaller gasket (3" OD), and "fit" it to the 3.5" light fixture of the older oven. The gasket material was similar to the original, and I used a usable portion of the original,along with the new gasket to build a gasket for the light lense. Several years prior to this repair, I replaced the oven door springs. Whirlpool, who had taken over what was left of Chambers, had the springs. I did replace one heating element about 15 years ago. The Chamber's salesman told me that the Chambers was the "Cadillac" of all ovens, and it seems to keep running.