KFFS20EYMS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

After discovering that the water noise was coming from the rear of the refridgerator upon pulling it foward I discivered the connection line had broken. So i got a phillips screw driver and removed the the two mounting screws and saw it was one piece. I easliy found the part on PartSelect website and once I got I merely swaped them out and it works good as new!

this is a snap! 2 screws an a nut to tighten and it works like a charm. the filler tube in my Kenmore refer had broken off in the back. ( really bad location to put this in the beginning) if you push the refer to close to the wall you can break it off easily. remove the water line by loosing the nut and remove the hose from the fill tube ( This assumes you have already turned of the water supply or you are standing in a large puddle)remove the 2 screws that hold the filler tube in place. pull out the old filler tube in and slightly upright motion. replace the new fill tube into the same hole and replace the screws. replace the hose and tighten the nut, turn the water back on and check for leaks your done !!
doesn't that feel great?

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Remove back side cardboard access cover. About 6 dcrews need to be removed. Remove 9/16” bolt and lower compressor tray frame down to slide out wheel axel. Place wheel in slot and replace axel. Lift compressor tray and replace 9/16” bolt. Replace cardboard cover. Remove 2x4.

First you have to pull power plug and after removing trays and door to freezer,, i removed ice maker and metal coil cover then i melted ice cake by using a space heater blowing in to freezer compartment ,, then i looked at how old part was mounted and installed my new one the same ,,, all this was done laying on my side up in freezer,,, it would have been easier if it was a top freezer rather than a bottom freezer like mine.i did all this hoping the defrost heat element was defective,any way it is back together working good.

change light bulbs

Removed back panel inside freezer replaced fan motor reinstalled panel and was done in about 40 minutes the video on part select explains the repair very accurately

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

pulled the top shelf and poped open the door and replaced the filter

The broken tracks popped off with a little effort, and the new tracks snapped in place. No tools required, except a screw driver helped to pop the broken tracks out, and snap the new ones in place.

Removed 2 screws holding cover (one on left; one behind air filter on rear wall), removed cover, removed styrofoam duct, unplugged and removed old damper. The styrofoam duct broke slightly during the removal process. This was easily fixed with some 3M spray adhesive. While the adhesive dried, I packed the air passage between the fridge & freezer with paper towels to help the fridge cycle a bit (this worked surprisingly well). After finally installing the new damper and repaired styrofoam duct, the fridge went right back to freezing the food again (I soon realized this was caused by a VERY SMALL air leak where the new damper mates with the flange located on the freezer). After making a gasket with some self adhesive1/8" thick weatherstripping and applying it to the damper, things are back to normal operation.

Unplug power to refridg/freezer. Removed the screw in rt. rear bottom of ice maker to remove. After removing slightly, unplug pigtail. Remove ice maker completely. Remove large square cover from left side to expose motor. Remove screws to remove motor. Replce with new. Replace ice maker to freezer, plug pigtail back in, put screw back in rt rear bottom, plug refridg/freezer back into power source. Ice was making in about 2 1/2 hours.

I was able to transfer my old ice maker from my old Roper Refrigerator/Freezer into my new Whirlpool Sidekick Freezer. Everything transferred directly except for the water fill tube. I ordered one on line and simply cut it to the right length, removed the cover plate inside the freezer compartment and the little sticker from the outside. Inserted tube and fastened in place with two screws (not provided but was able to use the screws that were in the holes inside the freezer before the ice maker went in. Works great. By not buying the ice maker with the freezer I saved a hundred bucks or so.

Simlpy removed two screws to remove the old part. replaced the new part and put the two screws in. Job finished.