KEYS850LQ0 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

Followed the youtube video and it was very helpful. The repair was very simple. Just remove the lint trap, then the two screws under there, then use the putty knife to pop the two front corner clips. Disconnect power before you do anything of course..... once its all disconnected, you will see the switch. 2 Screws hold it in and then it unclips. Reverse to reassemble.

watched the online video on the Partselect site which was very informative and straight forward. replaced the belt, tensioner, and two drum rollers (all included in the maintenance kit, (along with small hardware parts)). put it all back together, and VIOLA!!!!!! super quiet like the day we bought it!!! Thanks!!!

Watch the video you sent me, and every thing fell into place

First off, I was somewhat misled by the website and ordered the wrong parts. I entered my model number and ordered the maintainance kit. The info said it was good for Whirlpool, Maytag and others. I also watched the video which is apparently the Whirlpool. So, the wrong parts arrived. The PartSelect peeple were very helpful in getting me the right parts and getting them delivered promptly. I then found the proper video, watched that and did the repair. Be aware that all models have subtle differences. Mine had two long screws in the bottom of the door frame not shown in the video. I also had a little trouble with the pulley spring. I removed the assembly and then got it all back together ok. Then I lost one of the door hinge screws. It evaporated. The replacement part was like $4 so I used one from the local HD and all is well.

I reviewed the on-line video (which was very good by the way) and read the instructions that came with the thermal cut-off kit. Replacement of the upper thermostat was a piece of cake, very straight-forward; just remove the old & replace with the new. The instructions for replacing the lower thermostat were a little confusing because my dryer did not have the orange wire coming from the wiring harness, but after looking carefully at the old thermostat and how it was connected, I finally figured out how the jumper wire was to be connected and successfully installed the lower unit. Bottom line...the dryer works like new. Much cheaper than calling the repairman! Thanks PartSelect!

I watched to replacement video from the website and followed. I did use the tip of a small knife to get the connector to come loose on the old switch. It was a really easy repair.

Removed top and front of dryer. Removed drum. Removed old rollers from spindles. Installed new rollers and new retainer triangles. Replaced drum. Re-installed front and top.

I made it very difficult. I didn't research the repair. My back is old. It's easier if you just You Tube a video. The top roller you have to take drum completely out. The bottom one, The one that failed for me, you can actually do it without taking anything apart. Access it at bottom back, two holes. I do not have small hands, it would have been easier. Channel Locks inside, 9/16th socket outside. That will loosen main axle. Then use short screwdriver or socket driver on small bracket connected to bottom of unit. Mine had one screw holding it in. Easy bottom fix. I don't really recommend replacing top till it needs it. You can only buy them by the pair too. You will be ready when time comes. I found top roller didn't actually need replacing, did it cause I had it all apart. Don't fix if not broke, right? Trust, BUT, Verify. Smaller hands, would have helped me. All I got.

What a pain in the butt to route the belt thru the tensioner! There's room for only one hand in there. The guys who do this for a living must have some secret. My solution was to drill a 3/16 hole thru the side, make a j-hook from 8-32 threaded rod, use that and a wing nut to pre-load the tensioner, route the belt, then slowly back off the wing nut until the belt was tight. It works. . . .

first I unplugged the dryer. Then I removed the back of the dryer with a 1/4" nut driver. with the back off using the same 1/4" nut driver I removed the one screw that holds the cycling t-stat slowly remove the t-stat and take one wire off at a time and plug it onto the new t-stat once all wires are replaced. place the t-stat back in and secure with the screw. Then put the back of the dryer back on. put the dryer vent hose back on. plug in and away you go. repair done. If that doesn't fix it. Then the next step is probably to check the gas valve coils. That is a little more difficult repair but not to hard.

Pop off the top , Then one screw holds each side . slide belt around drum and then preload tensioner as per instructions . Simple!

I tested heating coil and it was good so I replaced sensors and now works like new again. And while I was at it I cleaned out my dryer vent.

replace the burnt fuse.

After reviewing a variety of online instructional videos I was able to figure out how to remove the top ("hood") panel of dryer to access the door switch. Once I had access the switch was relatively simple to replace.

I am a female, not a handy man. But by following the repair man on the video, it was easy. I also went ahead and installed the maintance kit. The maintance kit was recommended when I ordered the parts. I followed by maintaining the washer.