KEYE650VWH0 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

I follow the instructions from the video sent to me with the email to tell me my new belt was shipped. Made the whole job go a easy as could be. Parts Select made fixing my dryer so simple and I also got the belt within 2 days. I recommend buying parts only from you! Glenn

I repaired this dryer after I did a little research online to learn about the thermal fuse. I took the back off the dryer and used the Fluke meter to test the thermal fuse for continuity. There wasn't any. I left the dryer disassembled and ordered the part. It arrived two days later. I installed it and reassembled the dryer in just a few minutes. It was a pretty simple repair.

I actually found the repair to be quite easy. This dryer along with the washer are basic models and over 15 years old. I have replaced just about every part on these machines. The more "basic" the model; without all the bells and whistles and electronics, the easier they are to repair yourself. I used a YouTube video for this particular model for the repair. All the items you sent arrived in superb condition and delivered in just a couple of days! Absolutely fantastic and professional service bar-none! I would highly recommend your site to anyone looking for 1st rate products and unbelievable speedy service. I will be using you again for any and all repairs for my appliances. Thank you very much for the outstanding customer service. Kindest Regards, Bruce

1. Shut off power to dryer 2. Remove back panel covers with 1/4" nut driver 3. Use ohm meter to determine continuity at various thermal couples (3) and the one thermal fuse on the blower panel. . (This was the "bad "one in my case) 4. Remove two wires and remove the one screw that holds fuse. Did not have the model# for dryer, so I took the part# from the blown fuse and found it at partselect. Com. . They even showed an exact picture of the part I needed. . Ordered on tuesday/arrived by fed x on saturday. . . Reverse procedure to install. .

Follow instructions from online video supplied by Parts Select. Repair went very smooth!! Dryer started up and I am back in business. Thank You Parts Select!

After I received the new belt I un-plugged the electric cord and shut off the gas supply. I pulled the dryer about 10 inches away from the wall to remove the vent duct from the back of the dryer. Used the putty knife to release the clips on bottom front panel and a screw driver to pop the front of the top at the left side and right side, removed the two Phillips head screws under the lint door, then lifted the top to the vertical position. Loosened the hex head screws at the bottom of the upper front panel (don't take them out). At the top back side of the front panel, pull off the electrical wires from the door interlock switch and pull the retainer holding the wires to the front panel (don't take the plastic clip from the wires.) Place some wood blocks to support the drum at the front of the drum. Use the nut driver to remove the two screws on the inside at the top of the front panel. Disconnect the two springs that hold the door closed. Lift the panel from the two loosened nuts at the bottom and pull it away from the drum and let the drum settle on the blocks of wood to support it. Place the new belt around the drum lining it up where the old belt left its mark around the drum with the grooved surface facing the drum. Replace the front upper panel with the door to engage to two tabs on the screws you left at the bottom. Lift the drum so that it engages with the opening in the front panel. In case where the drum had dropped too far, use the putty knife to engage the felt flange at the rear of the drum with the rear cabinet flange. Reinstall the two screws at the top that you had removed. Reconnect the two wires at the interlock switch and snap the clip with the wires to the flange of the upper front panel. Replace the door springs on the hinge extensions to the flange at the bottom of the cabinet. Set the Idler pulley assembly into the cabinet floor sliding the end tab into the slot and the two tabs fit into the holes in the floor. Pull a loop of the belt under the idler pulley and then pull it toward the motor pulley. You might use the shaft of your Phillips screw driver instead of you fingers to get it around the pulley on the motor shaft. Turn the drum by had for several complete turns to ensure that the belt lines up on the drum and that the drum isn't binding on the back or front seals. Close the top, snapping onto the top of the cabinet. Plug the dryer into the electric outlet and set the timer to Fluff Air range and push the start button with the door closed. The drum should be turning smoothly. Open the door and all should stop. Reconnect the Vent and move the dryer back to its former position. Turn gas supply on but do not start the dryer. Check for gas leaks. If you find a leak in either at connectors or the flexible connecter call a qualified contractor to replace the flex connecter. Otherwise you can then set for one of the dryer settings and push the start button and observe the burner through the lower panel to see that the igniter is lighting up and finally the gas turns on and a decent blue flam is burning in the combustion tube. Open the dryer door and the flame should cut off and the drum stop turning. You are ready to set the bottom panel. Set the panel on the two lower tabs and close it upward until the snaps lock it in position. Job Done

I replaced the Thermal fuse and this fixed the problem.

The video on Part Select didn't actually show my dryer. So I found a video more like my dryer. I took the top of the dryer removed the front panel and removed the dryer drum. I removed the thermal fuse and the three thermostats. I checked each with a multimeter and determined which needed replaced. When the parts came I installed the new parts and put the dryer back together. The dryer immediately worked properly.

take back from dryer all parts right in front of face replace part and try dryer and it work just like it said

Not knowing exactly what needed to be replaced I used the in-site questionnaire and followed through to problem and then ordered the first two items suggestions. Turned out the Heating Element Connection Wire Kit was redundant and not needed as the Cycling Thermostat included two such wire kits. I watched the video on the site and that gave me a fairly good idea how to proceed. I removed the back panel, lot of small screws, and then the Thermostat was easy to see. There are two similar looking parts but after closer look only one matched the new thermostat. Super easy, just remove wires and old thermostat and replace with new item and then before actually reinstalling back panel I put a load of damp clothes to dry. Half hour later...Wallaaa...problem resolved. Good luck with your fix. Oh, there is a sheet referencing to set the new thermostat if needed to a certain limit, however using old thermostat with its embedded model # found that factory setting for new one was fine. So, no need to reset.

After doing research on the problem I narrowed it down to a resistor issue. The timer will not advance on auto dry but will advance when on timed dry but will not completely cut off. I ordered the resistor. I also located the faulty resistor next to the start button. It was easy! I just unplugged the two clips from the bad resistor and connected them to the new resistor and problem solved!

I followed the video directions exactly as instructed and I had no problem doing the repair myself. And if I can do it being a woman with no help you can do it. Easy peasy~

I followed the basic steps in the video for the dryer door switch replacement. My dryer is much older but everything in the video was basically the same. It was a very easy repair. I have kept this dryer running for 26 of the 27 years of our marriage.

1.Installed thermal fuse. I thought this was the problem as a few years ago this fixed the dryer that was now experiencing a similar problem. Problem persisted. 2. Installed new thermostat. Problem persisted. 3. Installed new igniter coils. Eureka! Problem solved!

I checked all the thermostats with a OHM meter and found a bad sensor it was pretty simple using U tube as a guide and the parts were here in a day and a half I'm now getting ready to replace the transmission in my GE washer