KEYE650VWH0 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

I checked the thermal fuse for continuity and had none.ordered part arrived next day. I took a picture with phone to idenify wires. installed in a short time.dryer works like new

It was really easy I watched your video on how to do it the video went step by step and was very helpful

First I watched a instruction video online.. It made the job easy. I have done it before but I did not remember exactly how to proceed, After watching the video i knew exactly what screws needed to be removed and what tool I needed for each step. Anybody sees the video before tackling this job, they can't go wrong.

followed video on line

To make sure the dryer didn't die catastrophically, I checked to make sure the timer, the light, and the push to start start switch and the door switch were still working. After they were diagnosed to be working properly, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it back from the wall so I would have enough room to work behind it. The first item you will need is the wiring diagram. If you do not have one, one can be obtained online by using your dryer brand and model number. The next thing you will need is a quality digital multimeter that measures resistance or continuity. The last thing you will need is a 1/4" nutdriver. The first thing you will need to do is remove the exhaust tube from the back of the dryer. The second step is to remove a small black plate located near a green ground screw. The 3rd step is to remove the large black cover on the back of the dryer. Once this is removed, you will need to locate the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is a small component that has 2 blue wires connected to it. It is located on the housing where the steam from your clothes leads to the exhaust port. The first thing you need to do is disconnect the 2 blue wires. Once the wires are disconnected, set the multimeter to resistance. The unit of resistance is ohms and the greek letter omega is used. The red lead of your multimeter goes one metal tabe of the fuse and the black lead goes on the other one. If the multimeter measures 0. L ohms, then the fuse is bad and needs to be replaced. If the multimeter reads 00.00 ohms then the fuse is good and you have another problem. I hope these instructions were useful.

Open the top and replaced the switch bracket with the actuator lever then inserted new door catch.

Watch the video you sent me, and every thing fell into place

In accordance with supplied video and instructions. Special note - watch out for sharp edges on the dryer panels!

What a pain in the butt to route the belt thru the tensioner! There's room for only one hand in there. The guys who do this for a living must have some secret. My solution was to drill a 3/16 hole thru the side, make a j-hook from 8-32 threaded rod, use that and a wing nut to pre-load the tensioner, route the belt, then slowly back off the wing nut until the belt was tight. It works. . . .

there were 5 ,1/4 screws in the back panel . The heater box was right at the rear when the back was removed.. Replaced the two controls that were in the kit with a 1/4 nut driver. Checked the terminals for tightness and contact. No discoloration on contacts. Ran unit after reassembly for 20 min cycle to test ,Put into service

Watched several videos online and was suggested that the thermal fuse was bad, so i replaced it but no fix. So i checked the previews Q&A from other costumers and watched the videos on how to replace different parts. I first looked thru the peep hole on the bottom left part of the dryer and saw the igniter glow for about 10 sec every minute but no flame would start. So i replaced the igniter, the flame sensor, and the coils all at once. I know thats not the proper way to troubleshoot something but i was gonna take the drum out and everything so mind as well replace them all. Dryer works like new and dont have to listen to the wife complaint anymore!!!

Pop off the top , Then one screw holds each side . slide belt around drum and then preload tensioner as per instructions . Simple!

Took the back cover off. Replaced fuse and put the cover back on. Worked great.

I ordered the Thermal Fuse, as it appeared to be the problem. A friend suggested that as long as the price was fairly reasonable, I should go ahead and get two of them and keep one for later. I ordered/paid for two of them. I put the Thermal Fuse in, and when I attempted to turn the dryer on, it ran for about 5 minutes, at a very hot heat, dried the towels, and then would not come on again. I thought it had kicked the circuit breaker, but after checking, found it hadn't. I watched the youtubes.com again and found that there were three other parts that it could possibly be. I ordered them, and replaced all of them. One of them had 4 prongs but two on the new one. I left two wires off, and sure enough, it would not run. I borrowed an ohm meter, and found out my old part was still good, but that in the process it had blown the Thermal Fuse, of which I just happened to have an extra, and after installing it, it is now in perfect running order. The total repair was about $80-100, rather than a $75.00 bill for service and heaven only knows for the parts at the repairman's price! Thanks youtube, Parts Select and my friend for his advice! Walter

After removing the back, I realized I absolutely did not know what I was doing. I went to google put in my model number, and went to your web page. The rest is history. Went to the video watched it and went back to the dryer and after cleaning up the back, put it back and removed the top and front as per video. The parts came in a few days and replaced the belt and idler arm n about 2 min. I am not kidding. The wife held the drum while I put the front back on. One thing I could not separate the door switch so I just unscrewed it from the fron panel. The dryeris 20 years old, and your web page will put the Maytag repairman on the unemployment line.