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Oven Light Would Not Work, Old Bulb Broken
Had already removed back covers and disconntedted power. When io received parts I replaced them in reverse oder I had removed them. Took me longer to replace back covers because of my bad diabetic hands. Thanks very much, yopu savbed me a bunch. God bless you and yours, god bless america.
Couldn't be simpler; since the old one was already falling apart, it came out easily, and then you simply snap the new one in. Glad that it worked out so well and my microwave is as if nothing ever happened to it. Whirlpool was going to send a technician to my home since they don't sell the part to consumers.
I tried taking the sensor out, but the plastic coupling behind the oven wall had melted and the melted piece was larger than the opening in the oven wall. I had to use a mini-screwdriver to chip away at the melted coupling before it would fit through the opening. That took forever...but it finally worked and the repair went quickly (15 minutes) after that.
Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.
Bake element failed and Cohen's Elec. Repairman could not work me back into schedule until after my holiday gathering had occurred.
Since I had to pay an $80 house call fee, I asked repairman to tell me the model number for the element, called Parts Select, ordered the element myself and saved my weekend of 17 hungry guests. So, I guess you would say I paid $80 for a diagnosis; I think I really knew the problem and solution all along as I have ordered to-install stove top element before.
Our door open button was broken so it kept poping off throwing the springs out at you
Very Simple just popped the new one in (along with exsisting springs) and it works like new. THANKS for the quick shipping part was recieved the day after it was ordered.
The microwave was a built in so I needed to remove five screws from the metal band around the frame, and two screws that attached the control panel to the microwave. After that I lifted the control panel up and out. The replacement of the button was easy once I released the clip on the defective one with a screw driver. The old springs were still good, and the new button slid right in. All works fine. The control panel also controls the built-in oven, so if I could not fix it it would have meant I had to buy a whole new combo oven Microwave. I was told it could not be repaired. Thanks to you I proved them wrong, and saved a couple thousand in the process. Not a bad investment for less than $10.
Oven lamp socket had broken center electric tab - failed.
1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.
Watched a you tube video prior to installing new switch. Followed the video which gave me confidence i was up to the task. After removing the touch pad I found my design was not exactly like the you tube model but I found the defective switch, replaced it and put the microwave back together. Works great. Again watch the videos
