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inner glass broken
Thanks to those who replied to my intitial distress call...because of them I had the courage to attempt the repair. First I flipped the main electrica breaker. then I removed the screws from the main door. The next step was to pop out the pins holding the hinges. I couldn't do that no mater how much WD-40 and lubricant I used, or how hard I tapped center mass.....SO I took all the OTHER components out staring with the side facings. (1 screw right left and 2 for bottom.) Next I took the screws holding the door together out -- then the two screws holding the clamps on the bottom of the door. At this point I lifted off the the front facing of the door by the handle and placed it with its glass, to the side.
I then had access to the two inside panes of glass. They are secured with a metal plate screwed into the metal of the inner door. When I removed the two screws securing the plate, two plates dropped to the floor and it was fortunate I was holding the glas securly as it two would have dropped. Next, I cleaned each of tpieces of glass with oven cleaner and set them carefuly to the side.(they were crusted with brown) Lastly I wiggled the broken glass out of the small inner window, working from both the inside and the outside of the window. Becuase I couldn't open out the door.. this was an extrememly time consuming activity..but do-able.
Once the inner glass was in screwed one of the screws o the clamp plate so I could rest the glass while screwing in the second screw. Once screw two was in place I took out the retaining screw and replaceed in with the glass clamped between. Aftern that the tough stuff was done and I just reassmebled all the door parts.
This SHOULD have been much simplier! IF I could have removed the hinge pins as directed.
Anyway, mission acomplished. Oven works fine. Thanks!
First, insert pins or screws in the holes at the hinge pivot point. Then lift and pull the door out. Four screws remove the door front(2 top,2 bottom). Two screws remove each hinge. After installing the hinges, put the door front back on. Set the door back in the hinge slots, open the door all the way and remove the factory installed hinge pins and you're finished.
Removal of the broken glass was easy , and it looked like the new glass just slid back into place. Ordering of the glass was also easy, and it looked like it would work. But, when the glass arrived, it looked liked the new door was exactly 1/2 inch too wide and the handle was 1/2 each off too. There was no where that stated that the glass needs to go in from the bottom up. You must take off the door by lowering it all the way to the floor and lifting the hinges. (See the manual) Once it is off, remove the clips from the bottom. Then put the glass on. The handle has to be turned only one way. So, even though it looks like it could go either way, it doesn't. Turn it over to fit. It was easy once the door and the clips were removed.
No repair - just open the box and put the rack in my oven - voila - repaired!!! BUT let me tell you PartSelect sent the right part at the best price and I received it even ealier than I expected!!! I can DEFINITELY recommend these people and I do that very sparingly!!!! THANX!
1)Power off 2) Remove frame covering front timer display - screw on the bottom 3) unscrew time display - 4 screws 4) unsnap lamp spring clip 5)replace lamp
Kept removing screws and pulled things out until I got to the inner glass. Yep, clueless and never did this before. Put everything back in the opposite order of taking it out. Wala it's fixed. Repair people wanted over $300 for parts and labor. However, with Partselect I was able to fix it for under $50.00 Well worth it! Carmen
The inner glass on the wall oven shattered (apparently a common problem). Rather than look at a new $2-3,000 oven, I found the part for around $30. The repair was actually fairly easy, just had to be careful with the glass panes. I did not remove the door completely, just worked on it either open or closed, depending on the step. First I loosened the two screws on the bottom of the door (when closed). Then I removed the four screws on the inside of the door and the two on the top part of the door (2). This allowed the outer panel to slide out and be removed. Then there are two middle panes, held on by small clips with two screws in each. Remove one at a time, being careful not to drop any of the glass on the floor! Remember the order of the glass and the clips, so you can replace in the same order. (Now's a good time to clean all of the inner panes also, and to vacuum out the interior of the door.) Lay these panes aside, and you should be to the broken inner pane, held on by a metal panel--again remove a couple screws, the panel, and remove all the broken glass. Be careful to retain all the insulation around the glass, and replace the glass, then the metal panel, the inner panes, and the outer door panel in that order. The outer panel should slide into place if you remove one clip and screw and start on one side, then replace the clip.
Oven door would not close completely--door eventually fell off
I looked at the schematic provided on the website and removed all of the screws wih a phillips head screwdriver. I took care not to scratch the stainless steel surface by placing the oven door on a carpet. I removed the old bent hinges and replaced them with the new hinges. I aligned the holes and replaced the screws. The entire job took about 20 minutes.
I turned off the power to the oven at the breaker. I then removed the side trim pieces by removing the screws located behind the lower oven door. I removed the plastic trim pieces above and below the microwave oven and removed the control panel and slid it into the opening above the microwave. I located the two screws securing the microwave into the frame and began sliding it out. I had to disconnect a small wiring harness and two wires from the microwave that were attached inside the opening above the microwave. The microwave section was the easily slid out, turned on it's side where the turntable motor was accessed by removing the access panel. I pulled the old motor, checked resistance and it matched the new motor. I then checked the old motor by applying 120V to it and it ran FINE! I thought I had the wrong part, but decided to install the new motor anyway. I did, secured the access panel and replaced the microwave in the frame. I reconnected the wires and secured the control panel and tested the microwave...and the turntable works!
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you
Open oven dooor. With a philip screw driver remove the gasket plate at the bottom of the oven holding the seal gasket. pull seal gasket away from oven seal channel and clean surface before installing new seal. align seal pins to to seal channel holes be sure not to twist the seal insert pins in one at a time.Install lower bracket however you may want to wet the fray ends of the seal gasket prior to screwing in plate to keep the ends from moving away from the bracket when scrwing it in place.
The instructions from another customer was helpful. I concur with another comment I read while researching this proceedure. What Idio-- would design a microwave that required pulling the unit from the wall and removing the top panel just to access. It is good idea to unplug the transformer and capacitor wires before proceeding. I also googled a schematic to see the parts layout. Remember not to touch the bulb with your fingers. Use a cloth or paper towel.
