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Oven lamp socket had broken center electric tab - failed.
1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.
Well, when you put the back cover on and screw it down make sure you have nothing touching the white wire leading to the oven light. I did and it blew the push switch when I threw the 220 breaker. Actually, the light was on when I came in the room, but when I pushed the switch on the front panel it sparked in the rear and popped the breaker. Then I saw the short and when I tested the switch it would not click. The install was fine.
This microwave is the upper unit in combination with an oven. Microwave portion is Model RM288PXS. Cut power at breaker box. Remove metal frame around 2 sides and top, (5 screws). Remove 4 screws on bottom, whicn anchors the unit to the frame.Remove contol panel (2 screws at top) and swing down. Pull out female electrical socket at bottom right back in conrol unit space. Now pull out microwave from frame about 6-8 inches. This provides access to pulleys on the motor and wave disperser. Put on belt. Reverse the above procedure to finalize the repair. This is the 3rd time I have had to replace this belt. They last about 6-7 years. Without the wave disperser , the microwave does not provide even heat.
I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy
The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.
Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.
My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.
The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.
I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.
Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564
Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.
I snapped a bolt on the main power terminal block when connecting the pigtail.
Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
