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Door would not latch shut
Following a utube video made it easy. Removed the outer cover of the door to expose latch. Two screws remove the latch, pay attention to how it was positioned and put the new one on and then replace the panel. But first turn off the electricity to the unit at the fuse box.
Unplug dishwasher and slide it out from under cabinet. Remove old broken link (a heavy string between two plastic parts) and replace with new one. Slide dishwasher back and plug it in. Very easy and no tools required.
the tines in the upper basket of the dishwasher were falling apart
Removed the old tines by pushing out the clips on the end and then installed the new tines and applied clips - took 10 minutes worked slick and the washer basket looks to be brand.
Remove the mounting screws that hold the dishwasher under the counter top. Remove dust cover plates at the bottom of the machine. The machine will have to be pulled out, so turn off the water to the machine. Usually under the kitchen sink. Disconnect water supply and push it out of the way so the dishwasher can be pulled out. Pull machine out enough so you have access to the door cables and springs. The door will have to be in the closed(up) position to do the repair. Usually only one side is broken. Start with the broken side and copy the working side when installing new parts. Then repair the working side. To get the working side apart just pull on the spring and disconnect it from the cable. Do the reverse to reinstall.
Remove 2 screws on lower baseplate. Remove 2 screws that hold dishwasher inside cabinet( may be attached to counter top or side cabinets). Turn off water supply to dishwasher. Remove any connections such as water supply, electrical connection, or waste water line that prevent dishwasher from being pulled out about 3/4 of the way. With the dishwasher door closed, remove broken parts and replace with new parts. Pull on spring to make final connection of nylon cable. Reverse the above instructions for re-installing the machine.
Replaced the detergent dispenser module by first unscrewing the front outer cover from the dishwasher and removing it, then by unplugging the old detergent dispenser, then by bending the metal latch clips outward to remove the old detergent dispenser, then by bending the metal latch clips inward before inserting the new detergent dispenser, plugging the new one into the wiring harness then re-securing the front outer cover of the dishwasher door.
This repair could be done in under 15 minutes but my dishwasher is so old that there was a lot of gunk built-up around the screws that hold the front cover on that I wanted to take my time cleaning up real nice.
The detergent dispenser is VITAL for getting dishes clean. Without it working properly, the detergent will be removed from the wash during the pre-wash/soak function and your dishes will not come out clean. I HIGHLY recommend doing this repair if your detergent dispenser is not working, and I had a great experience with www.PartSelect.com
My upper rack, even after replacing the upper rack tracks, would pivots forward or backward out of the horizontal.
It was easy to remove the old parts by using a screwdriver to push in “tabs” that kept retainer clips in place. Once removed, it was a matter of easy assembly in reverse and then re-clip. It became clear that the problem was because a few tabs that click into the sliding track and worn to the point where they no longer retained a tight connection to the track causing the upper rack to tilt with weight to front or back. Sure, the parts are a bit pricey but not when compared to a repair visit or a new KitchenAid which otherwise was functioning perfectly.
Not a difficult repair, but made more difficult than it should have been by KitchenAid's decision to attach the track from the outside,rather than the inside. Remove the top and bottom racks (top rack just lifts off its tracks). After turning off power, remove the trim panel below the door, then open the door and undo the screws holding the tabs at the top where the dw is attached to the underside of the countertop. Lower the adjustment legs at the bottom front with an adjustable or sized end wrench. Assuming enough slack in the supply and drain hoses and power supply line, just pull the dishwasher about halfway out which will give access to the bolts holding the track mounts. You'll have to pull back the insulation to access the bolts. Then with a nut driver or socket wrench remove the bolts, put the new track in place and bolt in. Actual replacement takes less than five minutes. All the prep work to get to the mounting bolts is most of the work. If you have to disconnect the hoses or power it's a bit more, but I didn't have to do that. I made the mistake of only ordering the one track that failed (outraged that I have to replace this after only 5 years or so and too cheap to buy both), but in retrospect, I can see that I should have bought both. The opposite side is not in great shape and will need to be replaced at some point. Not a difficult repair-well within most people's skill level. But really KitchenAid - either design the track to last longer or make it easy to replace without pulling the dw out!
The track that allows top rack of dishwasher broke on both sides
Removed screws holding dishwasher in place. This dishwasher has one one the left and right side after you open the door hidden behind a plastic hole cover that you can pry out of place with a putty knife or some other thin tool. After this pull the dishwasher out about halfway and there are 4 screws on each side of the dishwasher (on the outside) that hold the top track assemble. Just unscrew these with the appropriate sized socket, remove the old track and screw in the new track. Super easy. Anybody can do this.
The door gasket leaked water at the bottom of the door, No visible gasket damage.
I removed and reinstalled the new gasket per the video instructions, but I found the corners to be much harder to install than indicated. I finally used a large, flat, dull screwdriver to carefully push the gasket all the way in, and used my fingers to feel whether the gasket was all the way in. I figured if the gasket wasn't all the way in, I would have a leak at the bottom of the door because the top of the gasket would stick out farther than the bottom, which is exactly what the original symptoms were. Perhaps I didn't need a new gasket? There was no visible damage. Pushing in the corners of the original gasket may have fixed it, but the new gasket worked perfectly! Thanks, Part Select!!
I did not relize that the drain hose was in two parts. Naturally I ordered the wrong half. So after I relized my mistake, I re-ordered the correct part. Once the correct part was received the repair was easy and went well.