KBRA22KMSS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Refrigerator was stored for about 2 years and we picked it up when the owner decided to move into an apartment and no longer needed to unit (lost home to foreclosure). Brought the unit home and it worked great for about 3 days. On the third day my wife noticed a slight electrical burning smell. I did also and quickly emptied the unit and hoped for the best. The unit did indeed stop working. I fancy myself a do it myselfer but I would normally not go near electricity but thought what the heck it was free if i ruin it I would give it away. After a little research i found Partselect and they had a great design and a few stories that sounded similar so i pulled the relay capacitor for the compressor and sure enough the unit showed burn marks where the unit had shorted out. Maybe a bug got in there or water, dirt but I ordered the part. I arrived in two days which was great. I installed the part and plug the unit in and crossed my fingers. Very happily the unit clicked on and has been running great ever since. thanks Partselect, while I may not be one of your big customers I will refer anyone with appliance issues to your site first.

I removed the back panel. I used my hair dryer to remove the build up ice. Then I removed the old thermostat, spliced the wires to install the new thermostat, and crimped the wires. I saved $150 doing it myself. If you know how to splice and crimp wires, you can do this; even a caveman can do it.

Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.

I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.

Thanks,
Matt

Removed door from slide bars with small nutdriver, pulled old gasket out of retaining slot, cleaned slot & area around it, pressed new gasket into place with fingers, relatively easy. Used hair dryer to make sure gasket was formed properly and contacted fridge unit eavenly.

noticed the fridge and frezzer were not cold one day.i got on google and typed in the problem and found out the the relay goes bad rather often. was an easy fix. found the parts here on partselect and recieved in with in 2 days of ordering. pulled the old part out put new part in and plugged fridge in and was back up and running with in minutes..thank you partselect....

I called a repair man from a pretty large name to come out and take a look. He found out in about 10 minutes that it was a bad capacitor. The quote he gave me was $75 for the part and $175 labor. I tried my best not to laugh and tell him no thank you. He did have to charge me for him to show up, which was only $98.
So I used what he told(minus the "scrap it") and opened it back up. Although he had left wires everywhere and the broken pieces laying inside, I thought it was enough for me to order the part. PartSelect was very easy to navigate and ordering was a breeze. Took about 4 days to get the part and I ordered in the X-mas craze. Fixed it in about 15 minutes.

There were three parts in question, the defrost timer (inside the casing near the control dial at the top of the refridgerator), the defrost thermostat (behind the back wall of the freezer), and the heater coil (ditto). We tested the defrost timer by opening it up, advancing it to the defrost cycle, and waiting for the compressor to start up again, showing that the timer was working. Then we replaced the defrost thermostat and found that the heater coil worked.

The hardest part was figuring out how to open the casing and get to the timer. If I do it over again I will replace the $20 thermostat first and then deal with the timer if necessary. To get to the thermostat you can easily take the freezer door off by removing two screws in the door tracks. There was even an arrow pointing to one of the screws! Take out the food trays and then unscrew the back wall with a nut driver. The thermostat was clipped to one of the copper freezer tubes. I unplugged one end of the thermostat circuit at the lead to the heater coil and then cut the thermostat out of the circuit and used wire nuts to connect the new thermostat.

Once I figured out where the part was located it was quite simple. I thawed out the freezer first. Using a nut driver, I removed all the screws to the back panel of freezer. Squeezed the clips on the ice maker attachment to release the panel. Once I opened the panel the thermostat was visible and accessible. The failed thermostat was obvious by its bulging appearance. By following the instructions found on Partselect.com, I cut the two connecting wires and removed the failed part. I then striped some insulator from the wires to connect the new part. I used electrical tape to ensure connection and insulation as the white wire connectors did not work well (too big) for my application. Closed everything back up, plugged in refer and all was good. A little time and a $20 part saved me $150. Thanks Part Select!

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

This gasket is just friction fit into a molded groove. Easy to pull out and replace.
When I googled looking for how to.. all sites described unscrewing a keeper. None described that this (and maybe others) simply has the push-in design.

While investigating a water leak I discovered the condenser fan seized. I removed the fan to prevent a fire and ordered the part. The hardest part was identifying the correct fan. That took longer than the installation.
I cut the wires and spliced in the new motor. It rotated correctly and I replaced the crill.
Done
Total time of ice maker water leak repair and fan replacement about 1 hour.

1. Removed the cardboard cover.
2. Removed the terminal block and unplugged the old motor.
3. Removed three screws that held old motor to the bracket.
4. Removed the fan blade from the old motor.
5. Installed the fan blade (after cleaning) to the new motor.
6. Crimped on new wire terminals onto the leads on the new motor.
7. Installed the new motor using the fasteners provided.
8. Plugged the new motor wires onto the proper terminals in the terminal block.
9. remounted the terminal block.
10. reinstalled the cardboard cover.

Unplug
Remove entire back panel (both chipboard and metal fan grill)
Unscrew both fan mount plate screws - fan won't be able to come out because it is still plugged in
When looking at back of fridge, locate a small plastic box to the immediate left of the condenser. It's a circuit block. Release the metal spring clip holding the plastic cover in place, and trace the fan wire connections back to the fan. Make a note of which wire is connected to which terminal (1 of the fan wires has white lettering and 1 is just black)
Unplug both fan wire connects from circuit block to release the fan power cable.
Remove the fan mounting plate
Release fan blade clip by pressing fan against motor and unscrewing and remove fan blades
Unscrew motor from brackets - note alignment of motor on brackets
Mount new motor on brackets. Leave plug wire disconnected (replacement motor has a harnessed plug wire)
Connect new plug wire to the circuit block keeping wires connected to the proper terminals
Snake new plug wire behind condenser like the old wire was and run through cable bracket to the back right of the condenser
Plug wire harness into motor and re-mount fan mount plate
Reattach fan blade and secure using blade mount kit
Replace back panels

If you can take the old one out and reverse the procedure, there isn't much more to it than that.