Loosen to screws under ice mold and unplug power cord from icemaker.Lift out complete unit. Remove cover on ice maker,then 3 screws on end plate and remove end plate. Remove 2 screws that hold ice mold to frame. Make sure that the thermostat is moved to new mold. Reverse order to install new mold.
My owners manual said to unplug fridge from elec outlet, use a kitchen knife to gently pry off the switch plate (manual had a pictoral example), unclip the two wire, replace with on new switch and replace the switch. Close door and plug back in. Open door to check that the lite works. Walla! It did. Thanks!
My ice maker would not produce ice. I removed motor module which involved removing ice maker from freezer, removing motor module cover and 3 screws. I found short (burnt place) in copper of existing module. Ordered new motor module, replaced, and all is fine. Great service, quick delivery and correct part.
Had to Test Seloind. It Was OK. Then tested Motor Motor For Ice Maker. It Was Bad. Went Online Looked Up Parts For My Unit. They Were Shipped in a Timely Manner, only a few days. Installed parts in less than 15 minutes. Went very easy. Thank You
Completely on my own. Neither the owner's manual nor the instructions with the filter are of any use.A two or three panel series of diagrams with description of the process in English could make it simple. The release and reattachment of the filter are a bit difficult and need to be described as such.
After unplugging the microwave and removing the screw, I removed the old bulb and put in the new one!! I made sure it was in securely and the difference in the light was awesome! I use this light when I bake bread and let it rise inside the microwave, but DO NOT turn it on. The heat from this light helps the bread to rise properly!!
I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.