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KAWS700LQ0 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for KAWS700LQ0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KAWS700LQ0
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lid switch broke and washer would not drain or spin

  • Customer: mary from Wilmington, NC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 42 of 49 people found this instruction helpful
I read the repair suggestions from Paul and Karen. I was amazed at how easy it really was. I have never fixed something like that before and my husband was not home to do it so I just read the directions for repair on your partselect site. I printed off the directions that another person wrote and followed them as to how to take off the control panel. ONce that was off, the rest was easy. I numbered each screw and hole so it would be easy to put back together but really wasn't that necessary. It really took less than an hour, I am glad I didn't pay someone to do it! It's was extremely helpful to have the directions on your site that told how to take the control panel off.

As for the O ring replacement..that was less than five minutes...just take the top part off and pull the other part out and replace the ring. Anyone can do that. No tools.

Washer wouldn't spin or agitate. Made louder-than-usual noise during those cycles.

  • Customer: Paul from Boonton, NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 39 of 43 people found this instruction helpful
1. Read many other repair stories for similar symptoms. PartSelect Forum was an excellent resource.

2. Posted my problem on PartSelect Forum and awaited reply. Read replies, and followed provided link to step-by-step guide for the procedure. PartSelect forum moderators were excellent advisors!

3. Performed the first half of the procedure to get to the diagnosed root cause. In some of the stories I had read, people had turned the washer on its back or tilted it up to get at the area from underneath. I am so glad I followed the conventional instructions, and left the washer standing and simply removed the cabinet. It was surprisingly easy. There's a reason why it was designed that way. I am also glad that I chose to remove the pump from the motor. While it is true that you don't *have* to remove the pump from the motor to get at the coupling...it hardly seems to make sense to remove the hoses instead. Removing the pump was incredibly easy, and by doing so, I never had to break any "wet" connections, and not one drop of water spilled over the course of the entire repair. (Even though I forgot to shut the water supply valves before I got started. Ooops! At least I remembered to unplug the power cord.)

4. But despite the open valves, the galoshes came into play not for their ability to repel water, but for their value as an electric insulator. I wrapped the galoshes around the handle of a long screwdriver when I discharged the motor's capacitor. :)

5. Ordered parts. Washed clothes in sink. Waited. Washed more clothes in sink. Waited some more. Washed more clothes in sink. Waited still more. Came very close to stopping payment to PartSelect because the very simple, commonly-requested part I ordered, which was supposedly in stock on the day I ordered it, didn't ship until the day it was supposed to arrive--even though I paid extra for expedited shipping. And I was never sent an e-mail to warn me that the parts were going to be delayed. And then to top it all off, rather than make up for some of the lost time caused by their own error, and ship it overnight, PartSelect chose to ship it 2nd day. All that good will generated by the excellent website completely evaporated by the failure to correctly complete the simple tasks that the business has needed to be good at since before computers were even invented. I will never use PartSelect again.

6. Prying the old coupler halves off of the motor and the washer took some effort, but was not overly difficult. I wound up removing the motor mounting plate in order to get better access to the half that was stuck on / needed to be attached to the drive train of the washing machine. Mounting plate was a breeze to remove and attach with a socket driver. I used one of those stubby flat-head screwdrivers to pry the old parts off. This was the one time where I thought it might have been easier to have the washing machine tilted up or on its back...but I muddled on through without even removing the bottom panel, and it wasn't too awkward. I used a large socket and a full-size hammer to not-so-gently tap the new parts into place. Putting all of the parts back together took a bit longer than it took to break them down, but it was easy. The instructions for putting the electronic control panel into test mode had been rolled up and taped to the cabinet inside the top panel. After I put the cabinet back on, I used those instructions to test all the cycles before fastening the top panel and testing the machine with an actual load. So far, so good...

Water drips inside washing machine, suspected the inlet valve needs to be replaced

  • Customer: PHU from Laguna Hills, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 37 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
Before ordering part, took the old valve out to make sure it looks similar to the one described online by Partselect. After ordering online, put things back together since I expected delivery would take 5-7 days. That night the water stopped dripping and has been OK ever since. I suspected that there was some rust in the electrical connections. By disconnecting and reconnecting the terminal, the electrical connection is better and water stopped dripping. Still keep the new part just in case (which came overnight after I ordered it).

Slow hot water, cold water was flowing normal.

  • Customer: David from San Diego, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 35 of 38 people found this instruction helpful
First I disconnected power.

Next I turned off the hot and cold water supply hose bibs.

Once that's done, I pulled out the washing machine to get to the hose connections on the back of the machine, removed and drained the residual water in the hoses.

Note: Since the hoses were fairly new, I reused the supply hoses but replaced the rubber washers. However, if your hoses are older than a couple of years, it's cheap insurance to go ahead and replace since you're right there.

Next was to remove the two end caps of the control unit on top of the machine. This exposes the two screws that is then removed so that the control panel can rotate up and back.

Once the panel is open, I removed the single connector attached to the top of the machine. This leads to the lid open switch.

Followed by removing the two spring clips with the help of a flat blade screwdriver and pliers to keep the clips from flying off.

Once the clips are removed, the top/front shell of the washer is free to rotate foward. At this point, it can be removed or just laid to the side (forward).

This opens up the area to be serviced.

Disconnect the quick release wire connectors, taking note that the red connector is for the hot water control valve solenoid. disconnect the mix hose going to the tub from the valve by using pliers to disengage the hose clamp (catch the residual water with a sutable container). Then I removed the old valve assembly by removing the two screws holding the assembly to the back panel.

Follow the instructions enclosed with the part to preassemble and install the valve.

Reassemble by reversing the process. Check for leaks, test hot and cold water cycle and you're done.

It actually took me more time to gather my tools and pull out the washing machine than the actual replacement of the part!

Oh, by the way, I've purchased parts from PartSelect.com many times. Each and every time has been an outstanding experience. Quality parts, fast shipping and great prices! It's always been a pleasure!

Washer would drain, agitate but not spin and was very noisy and would vibrate heavily

  • Customer: Michael from Schuylkill Haen, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 33 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
I first watched the youTube vidio on yhe PartSelect web site. After getting a visual of the repair, I decided to tackle the job with a better understanding and knew the repair was easy to purform. First I took the two screws out of the contrl panel on top of the washer, rolled the panel back to expose the clips that hold the metal cabinet to the back panel of the washer. After removing the cabinet I was ready to lay the washer on it's back and had a clear view of the pump, motor and clutch... I was able to easly identify these parts because I took time to watch the video. Using a flat head screwdriver I removed the clips that hold the pump to the motor... Without disconnecting the hoses connected to the pump I pushed the pump to the side and out of the way. This further exposed the motor. Using the flat head screwdriver, I removed the clips holding the motor to the transmission (they just snap off like they did on the pump). The motor was now ready to be removed from the transmission ( it just lifts off) before removing it I disconnected the power suply wire from the motor... Now the motor can be completely removed. I identified the drive couupler 1/2 was on the motor shaft the other 1/2 was on the transmission shaft.. On both halfs the splines were broken. I removed the old broken drive coupler. Since I already had the machine so far apart i figured i would replace the clutch also. Using a deep socket ratchet wit an extention I removed the agator... I then unbolted the transmission (only three bolts) I gentely pulled the transmission and shaft out of the bottom of the washer. This exposed the clutc assembly, I removed the clutc ( which wasn't bad or wore by the way) and replaced it.... I figured I had it and I was this far into the repair why not. After relpasingvthe clutch, I slid the shaft and transmission back into place tightened the bolts and that was done. I then slid/replaced the drive coupler... Placing one half on the motor shaft the other on the transmission shaft, placed the rubber bushing on the oneside of the plastic drive coupler. And mounted the motor back on the transmission utilizing the clips I took off earlier. Once the motor was in place I installed the waterpump fastened by the clips. Flipped yhe washer up, replaced the cabinet... Tightened down the the control panel and was ready to do some wash..: the washer runs perfect now and I saved myself about $700.00. It was allot easier than I thought it would be... Watching the youTube video is the secret to success. The washer is running like the day I bought it new... All for only 53.00. Hats off to everyone at PartsSelect for going above and beyond. Regards, ~ Michael

Some of the teeth on the gears within the gear case stripped. And also, some of the agitator clutch parts were warped (they were plastic).

  • Customer: John from Upper Montclair, NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 35 of 42 people found this instruction helpful
I'm not the one who actually did the repair, so I can't give you a blow-by-blow description. But my friend did the actual repair (I found and ordered the parts from your web site).

There was one almost insurmountable problem, however. The three-pin cog that connects the new gear case to the rest of the washing machine was changed.......the cross-section of each of the cogs was not round.....but teardrop shaped. I ordered the correct gear case, based upon the model number of the machine, but apparently somewhere down the years Whilrlpool must have changed the cog profile design.

So, the man who did the repair simply got out a metal mill file and filed down each of the cogs so that they were round. It wasn't perfect, but it worked.

Spin cycle stopped working

  • Customer: Brent from Highlands Ranch, CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 34 of 40 people found this instruction helpful
Farly easy repair, once I figured out the problem. The clutch assebly plastic part broke (over 15 yrs old), which is the part that engages the drum for the spin cycle. Following the very helpful diagram on Part Select, I removed the agitator cap and bolt from inside the agitator assembly, and pulled the assembly out of the drum. Then I put the washer on its side and removed the three bolts and two hose claps that hold the motor assembly. I pulled the motor assembly along with the drive shaft out to access the clutch/brake assembly area, removed the broken plastic drive piece and re-assembled.

No fabric softener dispenser

  • Customer: Dennis from Port Orchard, WA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 36 of 52 people found this instruction helpful
Pop the center cap off the agitator and snap the dispenser in. Easy as 1-2-3.

Unbalanced and walk across the floor on spin cycle

  • Customer: James M from Elkhart, IN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 32 of 41 people found this instruction helpful
Part Select provided the problem determination information and the video on how to install the replacement parts. I ran into one problem, I could not remove the lock nut to remove the inter and outer tub. I should have bought the special wrench for $14, no local DYI or hardware store had the wrench. So, after examination I used a large screwdriver and wood block to lift the tubs up just enough to remove the old pads and replace with the new. The old pads showed only a wear, but was enough to spin the tubs off balance. The new tabs made the washing machine work like new. New washer $500, repair man $150, parts and information from Part Select $20 bucks, priceless.

Leaking water pump where casing halves split.

  • Customer: David from Washington Crossing, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 28 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced pump without disassembling the cabinet or disconnecting motor or any other parts.

Disconnected power, drain, hot and cold water lines. drained lines to pail before taping to top of unit.

Tipped the unit to a 45 Deg. angle, leaning the top side edge onto a stool so that pump presented well at the raised bottom edge.

Removed hose clamps at pump suction and discharge ports and drained water into a shallow soaking pan. Kept clamps on hoses to facilitate reinstallation of pump.

Removed spring clamps at front and rear of pump housing.

Wiggled motor shaft away from coupling in pump. This is a friction fit, so no parts removal was required and no parts "come loose" in the process.

Wiggled new pump housing onto the motor shaft after checking square shaft alignment with respect to square female coupling on pump.

Pushed and twisted hose ends onto pump suction and discharge ports, then pulled spring clamps down over hose ends at pump ports.

Reset spring clamps so that they were aligned and square with pump ports. Reconnected power, drain, hot and cold water line connections.

Washer ran as before but without leaks this time.

top half of agitater not working properly

  • Customer: Philip from Flat Rock, NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 26 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
Removed softner dispenser, removed bolt on top of agitater,replaced parts supplied with repair kit.
Directions were inclosed in package that were easy to follow.I ordered Thrust spacer not knowing it was included in repair kit.

I WAS VERY PLEASED WITH YOUR WEB SITE AND DELIVERY TIME.

Washer would fill/empty but would not agitate nor spin

  • Customer: Ted from SOUTH MILWAUKEE, WI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 28 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged power cord and disconnected water lines; note which is hot/cold. Washer was then tipped on its front. Discharge hose was disconnected. Washer was then rolled over onto its back as this would put the pump on top for much easier removal.

Pried off two clips attaching pump on motor using a flathead screwdriver. The rear clip was done by touch. Unplugged wiring plug from motor. Using an adjustable wrench (socket set would have worked better), remove two screws holding 2nd set of clips attaching motor on transmission. Then pried off clips.

Removed old coupling from transmission shaft and motor shaft, plus middle 6 hole widget thingy.

Installed new parts on transmission shaft and motor shaft with fingers pointing towards each other. Using a small hammer, tapped the parts onto each shaft. Placed 6 hole widget thingy on the transmission part, and then rotated motor so motor part would fit in remaining three holes.

Replaced clips to hold motor on transmission and reinstalled screws holding clips.

IMPORTANT: Replace motor wire now. I forgot to do this and after the tub was filled with water, realized that, and since the pump was also disconnected, could not get the water out. Had to get wife to hold washer up while I crawled underneath to reattach motor wire. Learn from my mistake!

Attach pump onto motor and replace clips. Double check everything is back in place.

Roll washer onto front side. Attach discharge hose. Tip washer back upright. Reconnect water. Reposition discharge hose and plug washer into power.

First try it smelled like something plastic was burning, but I think that was the old part shavings getting ground away.

The upper agitator arm would not rotate

  • Customer: Patrick from Marysville, WA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 29 of 37 people found this instruction helpful
It was extremely easy. I removed the plastic cap under the softener dispenser, removed the nut and washer that holds the upper agitator in place and then replaced the parts that came in the kit. The most important note for those who may be doing this job is that the o-ring for the cap under the softener dispenser, the seal washer for the bolt and the thrust spacer under the upper agitator all came with the kit. I did not realize that and ordered them all seperately.

Upper agitator stopped moving

  • Customer: Craig from Yadkinville, NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 25 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
First, I removed the softner cup from the top of the agitator. Second, I removed the plastic seal by pulling it out. I then used a socket to remove the bolt holding the agitator down. I then removed the agitiator from the machine and seperated the upper and lower agitator by placing my feet on the lower agitator and pulling up. The dog-ears were in the upper agitaotr section and easy to see and replace. I re-assembled in reverse order. The whole process took less than 30 minutes.

leaking from tub

  • Customer: Debra from Milton - Freewater, OR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 25 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
First I turned off the water and unplugged the washer from the outlet. I took the two screws off the console and turned it up to undo the clips that hold the cabinet to the back. I took out the 2 phillips screws at the top corners of the back. I was then able to pull cabinet off and not have to remove the console, but carefully slid it to the side, as ther wires were still attached.
Pried off agitator cap & reached into agitator to pry out another cap to access 7/16 bolt. Checked over the agitator parts for wear (dogs) Took agitator, top outer (white) and inner (brown) tub rings off.
Sprayed lots of liqid wrench around spanner nut and drive block and gave it time to work. Used spanner tool to get spanner nut off. Hard work. Pounded and pounded and pounded and pounded with hammer. It gave a tiny bit. Then I got an idea: I pounded it back the other way, as you would to tighten. This helped. I then pounded back the other way and did this again. It worked amazingly well.
Got to drive block and it was rusted out along the bottom and also hard to get off. The diagram showed a "lock" (horseshoe shaped thing) on top of it, but mine was all in one piece but I couldn't tell that. I sprayed and pryed and pounded from the bottom and it split in half. It needed to be replaced anyway.
The inner tub was also hard to get out and I used some dish liquid. I pushed down, (using the rags here, the edges can cut you). I twisted, I pulled. I pushed, I pulled, I cussed, and begged. I then went to bed and then next day I pushed backwards and forwards and side to side & finally it came off. Then I undid the brackets on the bottom of the outer tub along the bottom and disconnected the clear hose in back. When loosening the black hose clamp in front to the pump, water started to come out of the hose so I grabbed a cool whip container to catch it. It smelled yucky. Once I had the outer tub off I put the new seal in, using some plumber's grease to help get ithe tub over the shaft..Then I hooked up the hoses & brackets on the bottom of the outer tub. I cleaned out the outer tub, as there was crud in the bottom. Then I poured about 5 gallons of water in it to see if the seal was set in right. Make sure the drain hose hasn't fallen out! (You can leave this water in the tub, you'll find out why) I cleaned up the rust on tube of the inner tub with steel wool and inspected everything else. Something didn't look quite right about the outer shaft that goes around the spin tube. It looked like something should go there. I discovered there SHOULD have been a seal there but one was never put in. So I put one in. I used a little grease to help put the new drive block on, and tightened the spanner nut with the spanner wrench. I put everything else back on EXCEPT for the cabinet-with the console attached. Ha Ha All the other directions I read wrote to take the console off first. If I had done that I wouldn't have been able to do the most important part of the job: testing the result. I finished filling the tub to the lowest water level to watch it go thru it's cycles and checked for leaks. If the console was "flopped over" the back how can you check? (I don't play with wiring)
I turned off the water & unplugged the washer and slid the cabinet on.. I tipped the console back to access the large gold squiggly brackets that hold the cabinet to the back and reattached them to the back, by removing them, hooking them onto the back, and snapping them into place. I double-DOUBLE checked to see if anything had come loose, then slid the console first on top of the back and put the two screws back in. The screws on my machine are not covered up by the end caps, but they are at a wierd angle, so I held the console up slighly and started the screws first. As they tightened down the console slid into the holes on the cabinet.
There is a small sppliance shop in my town & the guy loaned me the spanner wrench. It was very nice of him.I guess I will have to give his & his famil
All Instructions for the KAWS700LQ0
31-45 of 1,670