Models > KAWS700LQ0 > Instructions

KAWS700LQ0 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for KAWS700LQ0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KAWS700LQ0
61-75 of 1596
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Cog stripped causing agitator to not turn

  • Customer: Vicki from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Removed top cap on agitator w/ flathead screwdriver. Removed protective cap over bolt and cog housing shaft. Used 7/16 deep socket w/ extension to remove bolt. Removed housing where stripped cogs were located. Cogs seated loosely in shaft housing no tools required to remove cogs. Replaced cogs in housing, made sure everything was lined correctly. re-inserted housing into shaft. ,screwed bolt, replaced caps and works like new.

In the spin cycle, drum would'nt spin unless assisted

  • Customer: ANTHONY from NY NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
First off unplug the machine then turned off H/C water supply and removed hoses, laid the machine on its side, removed 3 motor supp. bolts, loosened drum pulled out shaft and clutch assembly was right there. Also replaced coupling while it was apart. And to think, a svce company wanted 179.00 just to walk in my door and diagnose the pblm. Then, parts and labor were extra. Thanks for the help/advice, piece of cake!!!!!!!

Water constantly dripped into washer when it was off.

  • Customer: MARK from MARION MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off water and pulled power plug, Then unscrewed hot and cold hoses from washer.
I took off the top control by undoing the 2 screws in front and then the two screws on the back plastic latches. Mover it forware and took off the 2 screws on the bottom of the back which came up and off easily. Undid the two screws holding the Water valve to the back and undid the water outlet tube and the wireing. Replaced with new valve and reattached tubing and wires. Screwed back on and reattached controls.
Actually was very easy even without repair manual to the washing machine.

Machiine would fill with water and then stop cycle. I determined that it was the lid switch because that is the sam e thing th emachine does when the lid is up.

  • Customer: Louise from Bridgewater NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Followed some very handy instructions I found on the web.

First unplug machine and next back off the screws in the back of the plastic end caps holding down the control panel.
Then slip a putty knife under each of the front corners to release the panel so it can flip back
exposing the lid switch wiring harness clip connector.
Release the lid switch clip connector from the wiring harness.
Next release the two brass colored clips that hold the top to the sides.
Remove sides.
Remove screws holding lid switch and unclip switch from back of top nd from under top .
Remove switch and replace with new one.
Reverse order reassembly making sure the four base tabs of the sides are in the four slots in the machine base frame.
Reinstall brass clips.
Make sure new switch is clipped to the control panel harness.
Screw down corner screws in control panel end caps.
Done.

Thank you PartsSelect for your pormpt, courteous, and informative service.
You also had the lowest price and fastest delivery.
Well done!

No cold water supply/slow cold water fill

  • Customer: Andrew from Virginia Beach VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Unscrewed the two screws that hold the water lines to the valve. Unscrewed and lifted the control panel, popped the two spring clips that hold the back panel against the housing. Pulled the valve just outside the back panel. Took off the internal water line and moved it over to the new valve. Took off both hot and bold electric plugs and moved them to the new valve. With the old valve off, I sled the new valve into place and screwed it to the back panel. Put the spring tabs back on the back panel and screwed the back panel back together. Plugged it in, attached the water supply lines and tested it. Worked fine.

shut off before finished

  • Customer: LARRY from LUCERNE CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
i knew the lid sw. must be bad and had a new one in hand, but when i remove the sw. ( near the lid ) i found the wires going back to where i could not reach. was not sure how to get at them so i repaired the sw. with tape untill i could find how to get at the wire end. after reading more in this repair area i know that i need to remove the control panel which is easy to do. next time i will read all i can on repairs in this section!!

bad lid swithch, problem with spin cycle

  • Customer: Bill from Beaver Dam KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 15 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
remove 2 screws that hold timer section
remove large clips that hold lid section
repace lid swich and put back together
works good

Tank was overfilling, lots of water on the floor, not good.

  • Customer: Jonathan from Hayden ID
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Disassembled the control panel and replaced the water level sensor, but not the hose - bad idea. It was probably just the hose. The thing tested fine for 3 fillings. I told my friend to watch it closely for the first couple of loads, because I thought the level was not consistent? - but she didn't. More water on the floor. Replaced the hose and it's working fine. Thank you.

Lid Switch Asembly broke

  • Customer: Brooks from Plano TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
First off I would highly recommend the review by Dennis From Evans City PA. This was quite helpful.

The problem is the lid switch assembly is glued together and the original part came apart and needed to be replaced. The symptoms described by others were accurate so we opted to replace it.

On my machine there are two screw on the front corners of the panel where the dials attach to the top of the washing machine. I removed those two screws and by lifting up and forward was able to move the whole thing out of the way.

You should see the connection from the dial panel running down into the wash basin. This is where you will unplug the old switch and replace it with a new one. There are little plastic clips that hold it in place, but you can squeeze them with your fingers to remove it from the panel.

In order to get access to the underside where the wires are connected you will need to remove two clips that hold the back pane to the rest of the sheet metal. In my case I wasn't quite prepared for the entire frame to move but once the clips are removed the back panel is completely removed and you can pull it forward to gain access to the underside.

Once you are able to get underneath you will see a screw that holds the ground wire. This is the one that you may need pliers to remove. There are two screws that hold the switch in place but you can access them at any time. I had already removed the old screws by this point. This should leave the switch disconnected from everything and you can install the new one.

Now just connect everything back together. The two screws for switch where the lid hits. Connect the ground wire and run the the connection back to the top portion where it will connect back up to the top panel.

I would add that there are two thin plastic strips that ran vertically up the back fo the back panel that meet the outer casing. I had to re-seat these before putting the clips back on the top.

Slipping Spin clutch due to leaking gear-case seal.

  • Customer: Thomas from Pascoag RI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
1. Unplug the machine.
2. Turn the water off.
3. Disconnect the supply and discharge hoses.
4. Open the cover and remove the cap/cover of the agitator. Use socket wrench to remove the bolt securing the agitator. Pull up on the agitator and remove it.
5. Lay washing machine down on it's front. Remove the inlet and outlet drain hoses from the discharge pump.
6. Remove the 2 "faston" connectors from the motor start capacitor (looks like a D cell flashlight battery). Rock the connectors back and forth and pull gently until they come off. Polarity doesn't matter but to be safe make note of the positions.
7. Press the release clip on the motor connector and pull to disconnect it. Move the wiring harness out of harms way.
8. Remove the 3 bolt securing the motor and transmission assembly to the bottom of the tub. Pull the drive assembly out of the machine and place it on a suitable work surface.
9. Examine the tub brake assembly (still on the bottom of the tub), the clutch assembly (on the motor/transmission assembly you just removed and everything else for wear or damage. Now if you decide to proceed with repair continue with the following steps. If not you're done.
10. Remove the inverted cup washer from the agitator shaft of the assembly. Remove the "U" clip from the shaft and remove the clutch mechanism from the drive assembly. Make a sketch of the position of each of the removed components to aid in reassembly.
11. Now you can see the gear case cover and it's seal. If it is leaking (as mine was) you will need to replace it.
12. With the assembly level remove the bolts around the cover and remove the cover. Place the cover on a flat surface and with a screwdriver or punch drive the old seal out of the cover from the outside in.
13. Clean the seal area and check for damage. Clean the cover and transmission housing surfaces of old gasket material. There is a factory sealant available for reassembly but I chose an automotive RTF @ $4 vs $24 and it worked OK.
14. Installing the seal requires some tools and experience to done successfully. The right size sockets or piece of pipe, coupled with an arbor press or vise will get the seal in. The cover is delicate so if in doubt find a machine shop.
15. Support the outside of the cover on a hard surface and with a socket or short pipe length, PRESS (don't hammer) the new seal into the gear case cover.
16. Make sure there is lubricant in the gear case. Not overflowing but maybe 1/2 full when view with cover off on a level surface.
17. Apply some RTV sealant to trhe cover and install it. Tighten bolts evenly. Light torque (1-2 ft-lb).
18. Reassemble washing machine and test for leaks and proper operation.

Found cracked brake shoe

  • Customer: Michael from Trafalgar IN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the main bolts that hold the gearbox in place, pull the gearbox and shaft out. You will see the brake shoes and drum--the large spring is a struggle to replace. Getting it out was not hard. The biggest struggle I had was replacing the brake shoe spring after replacing the shoes. I ultimately compressed the spring in a vise, then used safety wired it, then placed it between the shoes, then cut the wire to relaease the spring.

Cold water flowed slowly

  • Customer: Timothy from Springfield VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
First, be sure to take the washer apart properly! The first time I fixed my washer I took it apart the hard way to change the clutch, and believe me it took longer to put it back together!
This time I was replacing both the water inlet valve and the hose leading to the disperser.
First remove the two screws holding down the control panel. It then flips back and hangs out of the way behind the washer. Then remove the spring-clip holding the rear plate to the body of the washer, one on each side under the control panel.
Next you need to remove the screws holding the body down to the base at the rear of the machine.
I then tipped the body of the washer forward and let it rest on a bucket so I didn't have to take it completely off. Then it is easy to access the hose and the water inlet valve. Shut off the water and remove the supply hoses to the washer. Remove the two screws holding the water inlet valve to the rear of the washer using a nut driver. Next remove the wires to teh inlet valve, making sure to note which one is cold and hot, and which orientation they are. Mine was yellow on top and brown on bottom. Next remove the springs clamps holding the hose on. Replace the hose re-using the same clamps. Replace the water inlet valve reverse the process to re-assemble the washer. Tilt the body back on, put the screws in the base, clamp the back to the body, flip the contorl panel back over and insert the screws. Reattach the water supply lines and you are done!

Broken Lid Switch

  • Customer: Andrew from San Rafael CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Washing machine is in a closet - tight space - was able to disconnect switch panel following other instructions, 2 screws on back, vertical // 2 screws near top corner on back, horizontal.

Pulled switch box off, could not get top sheet of washer off though, needed to detach side panel from back panel and lean the washing machine exterior panels fwd, and reach in from the back to disconnect the swicth ground, then pulled the lines, and disconnected the switch.

Then while still leaning the unit fwd, reconnected the ground for the new switch assemply, got it in the small clips leading back to control panel, fed the switch back into the control panel and reconnected.

Then, leaned unti back into place and got the panels lined up again, reset the control box, fiddles with the s clamps, and just tightened up the 4 screws.

Done.

Leaking water on floor under front center.

  • Customer: Christopher from Leadville CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnet the washer from supply lines. pull washer out, tip on side. Remove water hoses from pump, have to squeeze hose clamps with pliers and slide them down the hose. Then remove the hoses from the pump. Then locate spring retainers that hold pump to drive motor, place flat blade screw driver under each clip and pry clip loose, then remove pump.
Install new pump on shaft, making sure that alignment dowels line up with holes on pump. Hold pump in place and using finger push retainer clips over lip of pump, install hoses on pump, install hose clamps. Hook washer up to supply lines, drain lines, plug in and you'r done.

Washer would drain, agitate but not spin and was very noisy and would vibrate heavily

  • Customer: Michael from Schuylkill Haen PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I first watched the youTube vidio on yhe PartSelect web site. After getting a visual of the repair, I decided to tackle the job with a better understanding and knew the repair was easy to purform. First I took the two screws out of the contrl panel on top of the washer, rolled the panel back to expose the clips that hold the metal cabinet to the back panel of the washer. After removing the cabinet I was ready to lay the washer on it's back and had a clear view of the pump, motor and clutch... I was able to easly identify these parts because I took time to watch the video. Using a flat head screwdriver I removed the clips that hold the pump to the motor... Without disconnecting the hoses connected to the pump I pushed the pump to the side and out of the way. This further exposed the motor. Using the flat head screwdriver, I removed the clips holding the motor to the transmission (they just snap off like they did on the pump). The motor was now ready to be removed from the transmission ( it just lifts off) before removing it I disconnected the power suply wire from the motor... Now the motor can be completely removed. I identified the drive couupler 1/2 was on the motor shaft the other 1/2 was on the transmission shaft.. On both halfs the splines were broken. I removed the old broken drive coupler. Since I already had the machine so far apart i figured i would replace the clutch also. Using a deep socket ratchet wit an extention I removed the agator... I then unbolted the transmission (only three bolts) I gentely pulled the transmission and shaft out of the bottom of the washer. This exposed the clutc assembly, I removed the clutc ( which wasn't bad or wore by the way) and replaced it.... I figured I had it and I was this far into the repair why not. After relpasingvthe clutch, I slid the shaft and transmission back into place tightened the bolts and that was done. I then slid/replaced the drive coupler... Placing one half on the motor shaft the other on the transmission shaft, placed the rubber bushing on the oneside of the plastic drive coupler. And mounted the motor back on the transmission utilizing the clips I took off earlier. Once the motor was in place I installed the waterpump fastened by the clips. Flipped yhe washer up, replaced the cabinet... Tightened down the the control panel and was ready to do some wash..: the washer runs perfect now and I saved myself about $700.00. It was allot easier than I thought it would be... Watching the youTube video is the secret to success. The washer is running like the day I bought it new... All for only 53.00. Hats off to everyone at PartsSelect for going above and beyond. Regards, ~ Michael
All Instructions for the KAWS700LQ0
61-75 of 1596