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Grinding Noise In Motor
Removed upper cover. Removed screws in cover plate & motor mount. Removed inner cover with pop screw inside microwave. Reversed procees to install new motor.
After closing door the display panel must be tapped on to keep the unit operating.
The switches are not the problem! The problem is in the tolerences of the latch housing. I have ordered two new housings (Upper & Lower) and will see if the tolerences are closer. If not I will try epoxying a shim to the plate that operates the microswitches. The other option is to file the mounting slots of the housing to allow adjustment, which would be iffy,keeping them from moving with use. The exploded drawings really need to be clarified. The scale is way too small. It was extremely difficult to pick out the individual parts of the mechanisiam.
took off upper grille and touch pad and removed the old line fuse and replaced with a new fuse ...turned on it is working fine...sources of help: UTube and GE manuel
Touch pad failed to respond to any programming effort
Went to onlin source, found a couple youtube videos then went to the GE site which had a not-too-easy that find trouble shooting guide. It was extremely helpful as it described a fuse as a fix 80% of the time for touch paid failure. I really didn't believe it would b a fuse, but it was the cheapest fix, $8. I got the fuse and was surprised to fine there are two of them on this model. I took a guess and replaced the top one ( neither fuse was black or burned to indicate a failure but the top one was a bit mor greyish). put it all back together and it works fine.
All electrical worked (fan, lights, control panel) door switch was broke. Pulled the oven out. Took out two big screws from the cabinet above. (be careful not to drop oven)Set the oven on kitchen counter. Took off five screws that held the vent cover. Removed vent cover. Took out one screw that held the control panel. Lifted, turned and slid the panel into the space below so I could get to the upper door switch. Replace door switch and re-assemble.
I initally thought the problem was the turn table motor but after installing that motor & not being successful I realized the problem was the stirrer motor.Removing & insalling that motor was a bit more challenging but worth the effort as I saved either the cost of a repair technician or the puchase of a new one.The microwave is back in service & running fine.
I looked up the parts of the microwave on Part Select to see if there might be something I might be able to do myself. I found that the Cooking Tray drive motor was the problem. I ordered the part and got it the very next day. I loosened the 6 screws to the lower part of the microwave and then the two screws that held the part in place. I removed the element and pulled the wire plug from the element, placed the new element back in with the screws, repluged the wire, placed the lower cover back to the microwave, tested the microwave out and, is still working quietly as if it were new. Thanks to part select.com it was easy.
After finding the part on PartSelect, ordering it online, receiving it quicker than expected -- it took me 5 minutes to unscrew the bottom cover of the microwave, take off the old motor, replace with the new motor, screw the cover back on and test the WORKING cooking tray drive motor. Very impressed with the efficiency of PartSelect. It's web page was easy to navigate. Thanks.
Found this site, was able to identify the specific part through the internal search engine, very user friendly.
Read what others had said about similar repair. Now with confidence, removed screws, got easy access to the motor, removed motor, installed new motor, re-installed bottom cover, done!
If you have electric burner or gas stove, I suggest laying down a towel or similar cloth. In the event you drop a screw, you done want it bouncing off the stove surface, or down into the burner dishes.
I unscrewed the entire undersurface of the microwave (I didn't do this before!) and replaced the light socket. Easy job and I'm glad the part was still available.
Had trouble isolating the problem, so I had a repairman identify the problem, then I ordered the part and replaced it myself.
Removed screws holding the grill in place. Removed air filter, removed screw holding plate under the filter in place. Reached in under fan cowling to find the thermostat cut-out. Disconnected the two wires. Put the new thermostat in place. Replaced screws plates and filter in reverse order.
I was told by 2 different appliance technicians that the crumbled/melted light socket could not be replaced which meant replacing the entire microwave (expensive!). Other posters on your sight described the repair steps and I gave it a try. The hardest part was probably figuring out which switch in the fuse box belonged to it (now marked clearly). It was a simple matter of unscrewing the bottom panel of the microwave to access the socket, pulling the crumbled/melted unit off and shoving the new one on. I can't believe the repairmen didn't want any part of even giving it a try.
Took cover off, noted the two side by side switches easily visible and we hought one of these was responsible. Then son noted a third switch at the top of the plastic assembly which inserts at an odd angle. When it was inspected signs of a previous short showed up with burnt contact points. Reinserted at same odd angle as there were guide holes, closed things up and oven worked 100%. Great prompt service and great website!! We will use you again