JMW8527DAS Jenn-Air Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

If doing this for the first time, it's harder to replace than described by others.

Start by removing the oven door. Reach in to unscrew the two screws that hold the sensor in place on the back wall of the oven. I was working on the upper oven of a double wall oven and found it more comfortable to sit on a tall bar stool while working. Pull the sensor partially out and you will see the connector wire running through the sensor opening. The sensor connector plug is too deep into the oven to reach with fingers or any tool. Next unscrew the 6" round heat circulator fan just below the sensor on the back wall of the oven. Pull the fan partially out and you will see the plug for the temp sensor directly behind. You may have to push some of the insulation of out of way. Unplug the old sensor and pull it back out directly through the sensor opening. Take the new sensor and thread it in through the opening and plug it in. Reinstall the circulator fan and then screw the new sensor in place. This should complete the temp sensor replacement.

remove outer cover of microwave, (special recessed star bit required) change bulb, unplug and remove 1 phillips screw.

I broke the door by accidentally "bumping" the lower door handle stepping off a ladder while changing light bulbs at mother-in-law's. Yes, I broke my mother-in-laws oven!

Partselect.com saved my bacon and my marriage. The repair is fairly straight forward. The door is opened about halfway to allow access to the clips on the hinges. Once the clips are down, the door just lifts right off.

The Outer door is essentially stainless steel and tempered glass laminated together. There are three screws top and bottom of the door that must be removed to allow the back of the door to be lifted out of the front.

Once you have the door separated, you must remove the heat shield behind the handle with one screw and pry the shield up a little. It is held in place with double sided sticky tape as well.

Once the heat shield is up, you can remove the two nuts holding the handle in place.

Once the handle is removed flip the door over, face up, and then just slide the glass outer assy up. It is held in place by two tabs on the bottom that slide into two holes in the front oven door assy and the now removed handle.

Remove the protective plastic taped to the new door and then just slide back into place and reassemble the door.

Fairly easy. You might need an extra set of hands to actually lift the door out of the oven and to get the two halves back together when you try to line up the screws.

Removed case,
Discharged HV capacitor and removed cooling fan.
Unscrewed ground end of HV diode and unplugged from HV capacitor.
Installed new diode by reversing the order. In my case, the problem was the magnetron was bad, so I replaced it as well.

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

My part arrived the next day. That was a surprise to receive it that quick.
I removed the lower panel to gain access to the motor. Disconected the 2 electrical leads and removed the 2 screws that held the motor in position. Installed the new motor, reconnected the leads and reinstalled the lower panel. It was a very easy reapair. I took all of 10 minutes to complete.
I will definately use Parts Select the next time I need a repair part for any appliance.
Great service

Removed 6 screws from bottom cover and 2 from motor cover. Unplugged motor and installed new motor. Plugged in new, Installed cover. Done

pull oven, remove back pannel and unplug and remove high limit switch. Repair was the reverse of removal.

Once you figure out how to pop the little clips that lock the hinges in place this is not a difficult repair. But, it is tedious due to all the screws on the door.

Fold the door down and look for the tabs on the clips just above the hinge connections. You should able to push the tabs back and down with your fingers. If they are stuck use a flat blade screw driver or pair of pliers. Lift the door straight up and pull back. The hinges may pop (loud) while doing this. Set the door on the floor and proceed to remove the inner door by unscrewing all the sheet metal and machine screws. Lift the inner door out and the two hinges are accessible on either side. There are two black machine screws on the bottom of the inner door that hold each hinge in place. Unscrew those and the hinges come right out. Take the same black machine screws and use them to cut the threads into the new hinges. Remove the screws and install the new hinges. Use the black machine screws to attach the new hinges to the inner door. Reinstall the inner door to the outer. Lift the door assembly back in place on the hinge connectors at the oven. Then, don't forget to push the locking tabs back in place. The hinge replacement is complete.

I removed the 2 screws holding the sensor in the back of the oven and pulled the wires out. The connector got hung up in the insulation. Rather than pulling too hard, I loosened up the heating element plate and screws and pulled the whole plate out an inch or so so I could work the connector through the insulation. I forgot to shut off the power. When I put the sensor on, I got the same error. I briefly shut off the power at the breaker and turned it back on. The clock on the oven did not reset. It still didn't work. So I took the whole thing out, shut off the power, reconnected it, turned the power back on, reset the clock, and it worked! Should have turned the power off first and I wouldn't have had to do it twice.

I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.

Opened Box and Replaced Part......No Problem!

I tryed to remove the sensor from the oven by removing the screws inside the oven. Unfortunatly, the plug for the sensor would not reach the inside of the oven. I had to remove the oven from the wall and remove the back cover to ac3ess the sensor wiring.
After that it was a snap.

I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."

After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).

To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.

Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.

BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).

The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.

One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).

Didn't need sensor replaced. After turning the breaker switch back on oven appeared to be working fine.