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Oven would not heat
Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and oven works like new.
Top oven element works, but bottom element works only intermittently
Replaced the long Oven Sensor but have not resolved the root problem. Oven still will not reach required temperature. Bottom element becomes red hot, but turns off and will not start again.
After doing an oven self clean cycle, oven temp couldnt be set correctly, heat element was warm,not hot
After trying to set the bake temp after the self cleaning, it would not heat up. I Googled the model number,selected your link because it mentioned my symptom,and said usually it is the temp sensor in the oven that gets damaged by the high self cleaning heat. Your site had a place to enter my model number. You provided a great exploded view of the parts, showing me my sensor,then you provided the part number of the kit i needed,and filled out the order form with payment method. Less than a week later I got my part with instructions. Your video showed me the two screws I remove from the front ,and I pulled the old part out and uplugged it's connector. Replacement was easy, and oven was fixed! Thank you for a great site! You held my hand through it all!
The door came off easily after I removed the two hinge covers that are attached to the oven. Taking the door off can be done with one person but ideally two.
The new parts fit in perfectly and the hinge pin used for shipping comes out easiest with a pair or wire cutters (you do not cut it just grab it and pull).
After that, re-assemble the door and drop in place. It was a snap.
FYI...the shipping was ultra fast and the price was great.
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
Removed a couple of screws and removed display panel. Replaced clock display on back of the panel- was held on by two small hex head screws -1/4" nut driver and phillips screw driver were the only tools required, very easy repair that the appliance repair man wanted 750$ to do.
Removed front panel form oven front ( in the wall double oven), disconected 3 wires, removed old clock assembly (4 screws), replaced clock assembly, reattached 3 wires, reinstalled front panel (4 screws). Done!
First I opened the door to the oven so that when I turned off the circuit breaker I got the right one. I then removed the four screws holding the panel on, disconnected the wires, removed the screws holding the assembly in place, put in the new assembly in place, put the screws back in, re-attached the wires, and screwed the panel back on, ran down and hit the circuit breaker, and voila' we have light.
removed the four philips screw on the oen cover plate. slid the plate off and disconnected the serial wires. removed the four 1/4 hex nuts holding the control panel on. replaced with the new control panel and replaced the four screw nuts. re-assembled the serial wires, placed the coveer plate and replaced the four set screws. that easy.
(turn off the breaker to the oven.)take the eight screws that hold the oven in the wall out. then cut a piece of wood about 3/4" square 29 3/4" long to hold the oven out away from the wall while changing the control panel. there is four screws below the control panel to remove. lift the panel towards you and raise it up . disconnect the wires carefully. set the panel on a counter and remove the four screws that hold it in place. change the control board and reverse the process. turn the breaker back on and you are done. very simple job,
