JGSP44WEY6WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Repair was quite easy. Remove four screws and lay back sheet metal panel. Transfer wires from one module to the other and then put new module in place. replaced the sheetmetal panel. Spark now presen at all burners. One small thing worth mentioning. Each burner has a gas distrubution cap and that cap has a small hole to the spark cavity. One of these was pluged with grease and that kept the burner from lighting until this hole was cleared.

No problem installing oven sensor, but I diagnose the problem wrong, I need to change(ERC-11)control p/n wb27k5140

Getting the original screws out was a pain, but once I got them out I disconnected to old wires and attache the new wires. Installing the new igniter was VERY easy compared to removing th original one!

Three were simple screw out and replace with a nut driver. The warming burner had a smaller opeining which was too large for the nut driver. Had to remove shielding aroound it first. Simple, job. My mother did the last one.

I located the igniter module by following the wires to the top/rear of the stove. Removed two sheet metal guards and marked and numbered each electrical wire before removing them. Reasembled in reverse order. Wife thinks I'm a genius!

Pulled off burner grates, burner, unscrewed burner bowl, removed clip from igniter and wire, then put it all back together. Was very easy, and the stove looks like new again.

PartSelect is very good with amazing shipment times. The kjpart arrived much sooner than expected.

Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!

Took top off, removed wires from old spark module and put them on new one. Very easy and quick, works very well now.

The most difficult part of the repair was getting the front panel off. I needed to remove the top of the stove, which was easy but awkward - remove the two screws from each of the four burner bowls. Lift the bowls one by one, disconnect the wire and slide off the small clip under each igniter. Move the bowls and igniters out of the way. You will find a piece of sealant underneath the stove top covering the length of the front panel. You need to gently pry it off by lifting the stove top just enough to break the seal. Once the top is separated just gently move it to the back of the stove. You can now remove the 3 large screws underneath the front panel. There are also 2 screws under the plastic anchors that hold the front panel in place. Be careful, there are hidden screws in the back of each anchor, so don't break them. You just need to loosen them just enough to wiggle the front panel out. With the panel moved, the igniter switches are mounted over each knob. There is a spring washer clip holding them down. Gently pry off the clip of the damaged switch and disconnect the two wires. Make sure you put the wires back in the same order.

Removed old hinges and installed new hinges.
Hardest part was determining that worn hinges were the cause of problem, then ordering replacements. GE website hinge on exploded view did not look like hinges I removed.Thanks to Google I got on to PartSelect.com website where excellent pictures of hinges and one-inch grid confirmed they sold exactly what I wanted for my 13-year old range, the model number of which was not even on the GE website.

Removed spark module only two small nuts. Inside was six wires on terminal. Removed one by one and connected right to the new module. Easy job 10 minutes and finished.

Open and slide door upward off of hinges. Removed bottom drawer to access hinge spring. Detached spring, noting proper hole in hinge for reinstallation. Removed three screws holding hinge and removed hinge. Compared new part to old...exact match. Inserted hinge, and reinstalled the three screws. Reattached spring in hinge hole. Slid door back down onto hinges. Done in four minutes flat!

No way to adjust mixer tube assembly so the mounting holes will line up with the holes in the burner bowl. Mounting
holes in bowl should be slotted to prevent future problems.
Had to finally bend the mixer tube mounting bracket enough to get one bowl on. It also made the procelin break
on that bowl because the screw put to much pressure on the side of the hole.

Igighter mounting hole out of position just enough to prevent the burner head from sliding over it and sitting on
the mixer tube correctly.

I solved this problem by fileing the opening slot for the igniter. Even with the igniters being just a little out of
alignment from the original position they still light well.

I did not get new gaskets for the burner bowl but would reccommend that you get them.

First I elevated range top, then removed cracked electride from connector pin. Installed new electrode and lowered range top and all was fine.

Remove oven door from hinges, by pulling it straight up and off, (like you would do for closer access to clean inside). Remove the storage drawer. Lift up and away off the track, (like a file cabinet drawer). With the drawer out and away, you can see how the springs are easily detached from each hinge. Note the location of where the springs attach to the hinges, and bottom of stove. Remove each spring. Three screws on each side hold the hinges on. Unscrew, and set them aside. (The new hinges did not have new screws in package.) Place new hinge in place. Reinstall in reverse of disassembly. If any part of the door or face of the stove (where hinges mount) was bent slightly due to forcing door open, reform with light hammer taps and C-clamps. Enjoy for ANOTHER 10+ years, because it's a GE Profile Stove : )