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Kept getting F3 errors
My oven stopped working and the display read F3 error. I looked up the code and found that it was probably the thermostat sensor. I ordered the part from partselect.com and when it arrived I went to install it but I ran into a somewhat scary issue. I found that I had to pull my oven out of the wall in order to replace the sensor.
After a minor nervous breakdown, I decided to go for it and found that it was much easier than I had imagined. Changing the sensor involves taking out the two screws that hold the sensor in place (inside of the oven), pulling it out to the point you can reach the connector, plugging in the new sensor and screwing it back in place. However, if you have an oven like my model, you have to pull out the whole oven from the wall in order to reach the plug on the sensor. This sounds like a lot of trouble but for me it was very easy. The oven is held in place with screws around the front side. Most are easily accessed and you don't have to take out any critical/complicated pieces of the oven. My screw gun made short issue of the problem and I found that the oven was out of the wall within minutes. I could then easily unscrew a small back cover, change the sensor and then screw the oven back into the wall. Being very careful, the whole operation took about 20 minutes. I recommend that you get help from a friend just because the oven is bulky. It is not heavy, an average sized male can handle the weight but it’s easier with a friend. Also, be careful that the gas hose which feeds the oven is long enough (and not tangled) for you to move the oven out of its space. Obviously, be careful about gas leaks.
Removed grate and burner cover (held on by gravity - no tools needed) then removed the two screws holding down the burner itself. These screws are Torx screws so you will need a Torx bit set (looks like a phillips head screw driver but is star shaped). Once these screws are out, the burner lifts off to reveal two phillips head screws holding the ignitor in place. Remove these two screws, un-plug the ignitor, plug in the new ignitor and replace the two screws holding the ignitor in place. Be sure to have the ignitor centered. The first time I put the new ignitor in place, it was touching the frame of the stove, so it failed to spark since it was grounded. Replace the burner and two torx screws and replace the burner cover and grate. Done and done.
removed panel from back 4 screws. unplugged ignitor wire to lower level of upper oven, top wire is for broiler.Slid oven door off its hinges(very heavy)removed wire rack removed 2 screws from bottom pan lifted out,lifted off burner guard, looks like it may have had nuts to hold it down at one time , mine were missing. lifted out burner assembly. removed 2 screws holding down ignitor, they stripped out had to drill holes slightly larger and install new one with screws and nuts I had on hand. Used long screw driver pushed in from behind to guide ignitor wire back thru the insulation. reinstalled everything in reverse and it worked like a new. $50 part part saved us $2000, we were looking at replacing it with a new oven but we really liked what we had. Very satisfied, and wont hesitate to tackle next repair job with help from this web site.
Pulled the oven away from wall to access rear of oven. Disconnect electric plug from duplex outlet, turn off gas supply ball valve. Removed two screws that retain sensor on inside of oven. Disconnected two prong sensor connector at rear of oven. Tied a length of string to sensor connector wires. Pulled old sensor out through front of oven. Use the string to tie onto new sensor connector wires and pull new sensor into place from rear of oven. Retain sensor with two screws. At back of oven, used connector jumper supplied with part package to make connection to existing connector.
Look in the oven. On the upper left corner is the sensor. Remove two screws. Gently pull the wire and connector through the hole and insulation. Disconnect old sensor, replace new. Gently push the connection through, then finish pulling through from behind the stove. Replace the screws inside the oven. Done.
easy-peasy remove small panel on back disconnect in the back of range-oven "orange wire" unscrew igniter from burner inside oven remove and replace with new one slide wire thru hole in back of oven reconnect---u r done dave
My wife destroyed the oven door seal with oven cleaner...
I ordered the part one afternoon. It arrived before noon the next day. Then I simply removed the old seal (with about 2 dozen spring clips). Inserted the new part by carefully inserting the new seal into its corresponding hole at each end and then worked my way around the seal while inserting each attached spring clip into its corresponding hole.
Remove door, racks, unplug, remove lower burner cover two screws, the burner tube deflector pan two wingnuts, the burner tube. With igniter attached, remove back of range 4 screws to expose connector to igniter, unplug then remove burner tube, then igniter, replace igniter feed through back of oven wall and reconnect igniter reverse process and its done
ignitor was cracked and would no longer light the burner
I removed the burner cap and then the two screws that held the burner in place, pulled it out about 3 inches, disconected the ignitor and pluged the new one in, put the burner back in place and put the two screws back in, replaced the burner cap and it was done. I would also like to mention that I ordered my replacement part on Sunday evening and recieved it on Tuesday morning. Thanks Part Select!!!
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then conected the new element and replaced te two screws. Turned on the oven & works fine. Very Easy!
. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) pushed wires back in and secured sensor
I removed the door from the oven and set it on towel on the table, and started the repair of the door. I removed the screws one at a time, and one layer at a time. Becareful you need to take the whole door apart, and remember how it goes bact together. In the end it was worth it. The hardest part was getting the right part. I thought I could order the whole door, and found out after several calls they don't sell the whole door. Part Select both times I put in my order had the parts at my door within 2 to 3 days. I also had to return one of the parts and within 2 to 3 days the part was credited to my account
The igniiter is made of ceramic and had cracked. I remove the burner assembly, but couldn't remove the screw holding the igniter. After trying liquid wrench and every available screw driver. I opted to order the complete burner assembly. I installed the new assembly in 5 minutes and it worked great. This is the second ceramic igniter that has cracked on this stove top and both times I've had to replace the whole assembly. For a $1000 stovetop, I expected better quality. I'm just wondering how many times I'm going to have to replace burner assemblies. Each time it's been a different assembly.
Opened the box and removed the rack!! It's well-made, though not perfectly flat. But it works well in the convection cycle of the Jenn-Air which has a "drying" mode within the cycle. I've done basil and chives so far. The dealer from whom I bought the dual-fuel downdraft range did not mention the rack as an option. I found out about it through the range's manual. Great, quick service from PartSelect.
Clearly, the oven gasket was not the cause of the problem. The hinge replacements did not fix the problem. I think the problem was that the hinge's mating part inside the door had been deformed, perhaps by leaning on the door when fully opened. I compensated for that by placing two stacked magnets near the upper hinge mounting screw hole on the inside of the oven body. (0.75" screws , 8-24 or metric equiv., needed for the upper screw location.) This gave the hinge about 15 degrees of additional door tilting force. In addition, I added 6 ceramic magnets across the top of the door mating surface, kudos to that website. Now it pulls fully flush with the magnets. Ceramic magnets are good to 400+ degrees and they come in boxes of 120 for $12.00. I only had one oven as a sample, but I could see what I thought was deformation on the inside of the oven door where the hinges are inserted. In this case, I think that makes (only) hinge replacement futile. Sorry if this solution does not fit your marketing desire, but I did leave the new hinges installed.
