Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Control panel had F7 code. Could not press the buttons to turn on the oven.
The repair was quite simple. Just removed a few screws and had to insert the panel band. The problem we had was that the F7 code didn't advise which part was needed. There were two possibilities when we searched online, the electronic range control or the control board overlay. So we guessed and ordered the electronic range control first. It was not that, so we had to reorder and purchased the control board overlay. That was it!! So the code should state which part is needed. What should have been a very simple process was made difficult because GE didn't specify which part was needed.
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
The draw pictorial was not very clear. I orderd the two rear supports for the over storage draw, not sure they were correct. They were correct and the design had been upgraded to add strength to the support. The draw is now operational..better then ever.
Removed racks, removed bottom cover ( slides out)- removed burner cover and burner- ignitor screws were both stripped where they attatch to burner so i just drilled them out and installed the new ignitor with two nut, bolt lock washer combos. Re-assembled and mamma was happy to bake again!
Took off the knobs and retainer nuts. Carefully setting them on top in the same order as they came off. Unscrewed the bottom retainer screws. Removed the main control trim. Unscrewed the top retainer screws. Carefully pulled the broken control assembly panel out of the wire harness. Reversed the procedure to install the new Panel. Found the part quick and easily on your site and had it shipped next day. Wonderful Experience!
Oven was not preheating, broiler and burners worked
Removed racks and inner oven casing. Had to slide oven out and disconnect power. The screws holding ignitor on the inside were stripped so that delayed us a bit. We used impact drill to remove other parts but socket set would work too. Fixed the problem and we were up and running in no time.
I unscrewed the burners which was three screws per burner then removed gas control knobs and pulled up range top and un hooked the old module and replaced it with the new one two screws hold it in place and connected it the same way the old one was and put range back together and now it works perfect and saved me over $250.00 and part only coated around $40 with shipping great parts seller and I highly recommend partselect.com very easy fix thanks
My oven bake element melted one day. I had my husband replace it and for a short while it worked. Then it quit but then our broil element would not shut off. My husband said that it might be the heat sensor. We checked here in town and that element cost over $80. Since we have order from Parts Select before we decide to do so again. When we received the heat sensor my husband replaced it taking out the original heat sensor. This did not work as the broil element still would not turn off. I call the repair man and I found out that the initial melt down of the bake element also effected the main circut board that had to e replaced.
Oven not holding a consistant temperature. Found the replacement part easily on you website.Thanks to your photo.
First turned off power at breaker box. Pulled stove out to remove the half dozen hex screws on the back panel.(some nuts were stripped)Removed old oven sensor inside oven held by one hex screw and replaced it with the new part. Oven works great now! Repair job was done by husband Mike.
Tried GE onoine parts department first and ordered the wrong part, then tried the customer hotline and they referred me to the right part but didn't explain that the design had been modified (the drawings had not been updated). I found an explanation on Part Select AND the parts were cheaper. Part Select sent the part, the necessary screw, and an appropriate instruction manual. Each support took less than a minute to screw in with a socket wrench.
Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on, thats it...
Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven temperature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.