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Broken fan knob on Jenn-Air cooktop
I took the old knob off, got needle nose pliers to get the small steel sleeve off the post, and put the new knob on. The knob had a number on the underside, but it is not the part number. Part Select's picture showed the number, so I knew it was the right part.
Six burner gas cooktop, two units not lighting properly
It was very simple two Phillips head screws to remove the burner and one screw to remove the ignitor. It was probably less than a 5 minute job per burner. Unfortunately one burner had a very rusty screw holding the ignitor and the head stripped out. I tried a stripped screw removal tool with no success so I used a drill press to drill the screw out. It still took less than 30 minutes. Now both burners work like new
removed the two screws holding the burner to the cooktop, disconnected the wire clip from the electrode then removed worn out electrode from burner. Re-attached the new electrode to the burner, re-attached the igniter wire then put the burner assembly back onto the cooktop
2 of the old knob broke from my stove and look over the part from part select.com, it was very easy to find, good price and was delivered in 2 days. The service was outstanding.
To be honest, it was nothing much. Had to reach and remove metal collars that were left behind around the pins, with needle-nose pliers. Put in the new knobs, and we were done.
What really left me impressed was 1) that the rep sent me pictures of the suspected knobs over email so I could identify them easily, and 2) I was expecting to wait for a week but I had the parts the next afternoon!!
remove grate - flip upside down - be sure holes are clean and dry - using toothpick, swab some RTV sealant into the holes and a bit on the pads ... insert pads till they seat - be sure to hold in place till all air is evacuated - wipe excess RTV with paper towel...DONE
Unscrewed burner assembly and removed wire. Unable to remove electrode screw. Striped head of screw. Tried penetrating oil but no luck. Tried to drill and use easy out bit but ruined burner assembly and had to order new burner assembly. When assembly came it had electrode in place but website does not show electrode with assembly except on one burner. With mail and all it took about a week to fix 2 burners. Returned unused electrode for credit. Overall, cheaper then a service call by far.
Our cooktop is about 9 years old. Great appliance, but poor engineering/design choice to have aluminum knobs with plastic knob shafts, that almost every time the burner gets turned on, the plastic shaft gets stressed and they crack, rendering them useless over time. I replaced all five (5), for about $80 delivered, since I got tired of repairing them. I did see a very helpful post from a guy in Arizona (thanks if you're reading this) whose daughter glued the shafts inside and out, and then wrapped them in wire. I did the same thing with my spares (I have about 7 now, after replacing one or two over the years), as I took the metal sleeve out of the middle, glued them inside and out, and used small plastic wire ties to close them up tight, then putting the metal insert back inside. After the glue dried, I snipped off the end of the wire tie. It worked great! Thanks, Tom D., from outside Boston, MA.
The porcelain cracked on the burner igniter, it wouldn’t spark and light the flame. I got tired of using the fireplace lighter to light this main burner.
If you have to replace your igniter, it should be very very easy. Remove the two torx screws Holding the cast iron burner to the stainless steel top. Pull it up and the wire connected to the igniter should pull through the small hole in the stainless steel top. Turn the cast-iron base over, pull the wire off, and there is a little screw Fastening the igniter to the bottom of the cast-iron Base. Remove the old igniter and screw the new igniter in place, reattach the wire, and screw the base down to the stainless steel top. That’s it, or how it should be. After years of spaghetti water, gravy, etc. boiling over, I was only able to remove one of the torx screws after using some WD-40 and a torch to heat it up. The other screw sheared off at the head. And a little screw holding the igniter in place, the Phillips head was stripped! I had to leave the roof or the igniter in place, break off all the porcelain, and then break the rest of the metal off leading the screw in place. So I had to use my Dremel grinder to remove some of the metal on the new igniter, then use some tinfoil underneath it to stabilize it in place and then tighten the cast-iron base down using only one screw. Even with one screw and using the tinfoil, it is stable and everything works now. This $27 part was a heck of a lot cheaper than paying $5000 for a new range top!
Removed the gas deflector; unscrewed the burner body; pulled off the ignition wire; unscrewed the bad electrode; screwed in the replacement electrode; reversed the steps. Voila! Perfect operation once again. My one mistake? Ordered the wrong electrode initially. Make sure you get the right part the first time around.