JGC9536BDS Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

I removed the burner cap and then the two screws that held the burner in place, pulled it out about 3 inches, disconected the ignitor and pluged the new one in, put the burner back in place and put the two screws back in, replaced the burner cap and it was done. I would also like to mention that I ordered my replacement part on Sunday evening and recieved it on Tuesday morning. Thanks Part Select!!!

The igniiter is made of ceramic and had cracked.
I remove the burner assembly, but couldn't remove the screw holding the igniter. After trying liquid wrench and every available screw driver. I opted to order the complete burner assembly. I installed the new assembly in 5 minutes and it worked great. This is the second ceramic igniter that has cracked on this stove top and both times I've had to replace the whole assembly. For a $1000 stovetop, I expected better quality. I'm just wondering how many times I'm going to have to replace burner assemblies. Each time it's been a different assembly.

I've done this once before on this same gas stovetop as the electrode can degrade if it suffers from too many "boil-overs". The most important thing to do if the 2 screws holding the burner head on the cooktop are "tight" and don't unscrew easily is to soak them with WD-40 to loosen them up. Don't be in a hurry. They may need a couple of soak and waits. Once the screws are out, it's just a matter of connecting the wire on the electrode and replacing the burner. Also a Star screwdriver that fits properly is essential.

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches to disconnect the electric wire - it had a small bayonet connection. I turned the element over and unscrewed the small screw holding the ignitor to the element freeing the ignitor from the element. After receiving the part from Part Select, I reversed the process...

1. attaching the ignitor to the underside of the element using the small screw.
2. reattaching the electric wire to the ignitor.
3. positioning the element on the stove top.
4. reattaching the eelement using the 2 screws.
5. testing and finding it worked fine.

A couple of observations:

1. The screws holding the element to the stove are star screws while the screw attaching the ignitor to the element is Phillips - necessitating 2 different screwdrives for an easy repair.

2. I had problems with the initial part delivery - it went to a wrong address. PartSelect Customer Service was great. I had a less than 5min wait for getting a rep on the line with the 1 call I had to make to get this corrected. And when I did get a rep she was both helpful, friendly and knowledgeable in correcting the situation.

I thought I had ordered metal knobs but it appears that I got plastic ones. I’m thinking they’ll be fine, the others had just split the shaft that sits on the control stem, but I’m hoping this won’t happen again. I do have a repair question regarding one of the sealed burners on my Jenn-Air. The igniter switch sounds like it’s working but the burner won’t light without putting a match to it. Do you have any ideas of what could be wrong?
Thanks for your help,
Carol Lance

Disassembly: Removed 2 screws with nutdriver. Pulled off electrode connection. Screws were rusted and needed replacement.

Assembly: Slipped on electrode attachment. Went to local hardware store and bought 5/8" 8/18 pan head screws. Used screwdriver to screw down burner head. The 3/8" inch screws on the tech sheet do not work. Too short and flange is too wide to fit in opening in burner head.

The ceramic on the electrode broke due to water over boiling the week of Thanksgiving. When i tried to loosen the screw to replace the electrode it broke off inside the threads. Ordered whole new unit overnight. Back in business in five minutes. Thanksgiving was back on!! Thanks!

It could not have been easier. All I had to do was switch out the jets in each burner. First I had to sort the new jets and match to the correct burner by referring to the owners manual. Then I removed each burner and replaced the jet one at a time. Finally I had to turn the adjustment screw on each control knob clockwise until it would not turn anymore. Plug in to an electric outlet and it was good to go.

I thought the problem was with one ignitor that had the ceramic piece fall off. After I replaced the ignitor, the hard part was freeing the burner from the Torx screws - drilled both screws out, all five burners started clicking and kept on clicking even when the burners were lit. I needed to get at the electrical of the cooktop, so I needed to take the other four burners off. Six of the eight screws loosened, with the two that didn't I drilled them out. I made sure the circuit was off and unplugged the burner too. Finally I was able to look at the wiring. I checked for burn marks, made sure all the connections were good, checked the grounding wires, and then attached the burners with ignitors. I turned the power back on, plugged it in, and all the burners kept right on sparking. I had been checking on Youtube and talked to a friend, everything pointed to needing a new Spark Module. So I ordered the Spark Module and just had to wait for it to arrive. Once it came, I had done the hard part of getting all the burners off. So, after loosening four hex-head screws, I was able to replace the old Spark Module with the new. I was careful to take a picture of the wiring and burners, as well as the wires coming into the Spark Module to make sure I put everything back the way it was. Finally, I moved one line at a time from the old one to the new one. Took the back clip off and put it on the new one. Then I secured the new Spark Module with the four hex-head screws, fed the wires through the holes in the top of the cooktop by holding it at an angle and working my way from left to right (all while lowering the cooktop), lined up the gas line pipes, and reattached the burners. Turned the power on, plugged it in and it worked! All five burners ignited and worked just like they should. What started out as a simple cleaning of the ignitors, turned into quite a job. Thanks to the ease of PartSelect ordering and reading through these installation instructions I was able to fix my cooktop.

This is the 3rd burner head that was replaced . everyone had the screws break off , & had to be drilled out & re tapped .I would not purchase the replacement screws @$4.00 each . They were just plain sheet metal screws that were steel . Better going to a home center & purchasing brass or stainless machine screws at a 1/4 of the cost .If you are not familiar with drilling out broken screws ,then this is not the repair for you .

It was very simple two Phillips head screws to remove the burner and one screw to remove the ignitor. It was probably less than a 5 minute job per burner. Unfortunately one burner had a very rusty screw holding the ignitor and the head stripped out. I tried a stripped screw removal tool with no success so I used a drill press to drill the screw out. It still took less than 30 minutes. Now both burners work like new

removed the two screws holding the burner to the cooktop, disconnected the wire clip from the electrode then removed worn out electrode from burner. Re-attached the new electrode to the burner, re-attached the igniter wire then put the burner assembly back onto the cooktop

Removed the old burner knobs by hand, and replaced them with four new knobs.....

Real Easy!!

just replaced with a new one. very easy

Pulled the old one off, pushed the new one on. Super easy. Simple ordering, quick processing and delivery. Way to go PartSelect!