JGC8430CDS10 Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Go to YouTube and find video of conversion to your or stove like yours. Then Google your model number to find your manual and find the section that tells the BTU output of each burner. They will be something like this, 5000, 7200, 12500, 15,500, etc. The logic of the orifices is small BTU=small hole in jet, large BTU=large hole in jet. Carefully inspect your jets in the conversion pack and assign which jet goes where according to hole size by burner size and BTU output. If it seems wrong when you start the stove, you might have to swap jets with another burner to get it right. Be sure to convert your incoming regulator to the LP setting by reversing the plunger under the cap. Use crescent wrench to remove cap. You must also be sure to have a regulator on your propane source. Happy converting!

The porcelain cracked on the burner igniter, it wouldn’t spark and light the flame. I got tired of using the fireplace lighter to light this main burner.

If you have to replace your igniter, it should be very very easy. Remove the two torx screws Holding the cast iron burner to the stainless steel top. Pull it up and the wire connected to the igniter should pull through the small hole in the stainless steel top. Turn the cast-iron base over, pull the wire off, and there is a little screw Fastening the igniter to the bottom of the cast-iron Base. Remove the old igniter and screw the new igniter in place, reattach the wire, and screw the base down to the stainless steel top. That’s it, or how it should be. After years of spaghetti water, gravy, etc. boiling over, I was only able to remove one of the torx screws after using some WD-40 and a torch to heat it up. The other screw sheared off at the head. And a little screw holding the igniter in place, the Phillips head was stripped! I had to leave the roof or the igniter in place, break off all the porcelain, and then break the rest of the metal off leading the screw in place. So I had to use my Dremel grinder to remove some of the metal on the new igniter, then use some tinfoil underneath it to stabilize it in place and then tighten the cast-iron base down using only one screw. Even with one screw and using the tinfoil, it is stable and everything works now. This $27 part was a heck of a lot cheaper than paying $5000 for a new range top!

Removed the gas deflector; unscrewed the burner body; pulled off the ignition wire; unscrewed the bad electrode; screwed in the replacement electrode; reversed the steps. Voila! Perfect operation once again. My one mistake? Ordered the wrong electrode initially. Make sure you get the right part the first time around.

This should be a 5 min job. Lift off the burner cover, remove two screws to lift of the burner base and then remove a Phillips head screw that hold the burner igniter in place.

Unfortunately, the screw holding the burner igniter was rusted and it could not be loosened. WD-40 did not touch it. I used a stronger penetrant, "Blaster". Still it would not budge. Then I used a small Phillips head screwdriver and a hammer which I used as an impact driver. I twisted the screwdriver slightly to loosen and hit it was a hammer. Then I twisted the screwdriver slightly to tighten and again hit it with a hammer. After the penetrant and a couple of more tries, the rusted screw finally moved!!!

With no rust, this should be an easy 5 minute replacement. The burner now works great!!!

First reviewed other review on this repair. Disconnected ignitor system from electrical source (pulled plug); removed 2 screws holding casing in place; removed it from the cooktop; & removed additional screw holding ignitor. Replaced ignitor and reversed the process. Done.

Removed two star screws from the top of the burner, disconnected the wire going to the Ignitor, removed the old ignitor held in with one phillips screw, installed new ignitor and re-installed the burner assembly. Simple!

Pulled old knobs off, slid new knobs on.

after I received the cap in the mail, I removed the grillwork and set the cap in place. then replaced the grill and my wife fixed my supper.

I used a star head driver to take of burners ,then pulled wires out about 2 inches unplugged old ignitors and plugged in new ones

First I removed the burner, two screws held it in place. The ignitor is attached to the burner with one screw remove the screw then remove the one wire connection. Reverse the steps to put back together. The whole job from start to finish takes about five minutes.

Remove the burner cover to reach the burner assembly. From the top of the cooktop you will see 2 screws holing the burner assembly. Using a T drive (6 point screwdriver)remove both screws and the burner assembly will come out of the cook top. Using a phillips head screw driver, remove the old ignitor from the burner assembly. Mine was galled up, so I had to use some penetrating oil and let it sit for a half hour. I then used a hammer and a phillips head screwdriver to tap the screw as I twisted to un-tightened the screw. Once it broke loose, I placed the new ignitor and reassembled the burner into the stove.

remove two screws then unplug the wires put the wires back on the new one

Simply removed the old ignitor and install the exact replacement part. Work great.

First I tried twitching my nose....after I stopped sneezing I got a screw driver and put the new electrode in and gosh in gahiggy, it worked!!

First step is to turn gas off to cook top and also disconnect power to the unit. Than using a crescent wrench disconnect the gas line going to the unit from the Regulator. Than again using the crescent wrench disconnect the regulator from the bottom of the unit. Next remove the nipple that connects the gas line to the regulator from the old unit. Apply new pipe dope to the threads and screw it into the new one and tighten down. Next install the regulator to the unit and install the gas line to the regulator. once done with the install you can now plug the unit in and turn on the gas. You are now ready to use the cook top again