JFC2089HEP Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the filter from inside the ref then disconneted the water line to filter and to ice maker on blue line just push line down then up to remove. Then pull whole assb. thru refreg. and install new one. very easy 2nd time mine went bad 1st time it coast almost $300.00 this time less than $50.00. Take your time and its fool proof.

I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.

Thanks,
Matt

For replacing end cap, LH pantry part:
removed large pantry drawer
removed two small upper pantry drawers
removed glass panel and long braces---all these parts required no tools
used 1/4" nut driver to remove 3 screws from broken end cap, LH pantry part and shook it to release it from the refrigerator
used phillips head screw driver to remove drawer arms
replaced metal drawer arms to new end cap, LH pantry part
attached new end cap, LH panrty part to refigerator and finised by using nut driver on all 3 screws. then replaced other pantry dawers, glass shelf, and pantry cover. EASY!

4-Screws 3 plactic hoses to remove pull 3 tubes out and instol new part last then 15 min. Making shure is no leaks. Easy

The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.

The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.

To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.

First I unplugged the unit, then I popped off the cover to the icemaker electronics. Removed 4 screws, pulled out the broken electronic panel, and replaced with the new one. Returned the screws and cover. The next moring the ice bin was full.

This must have saved me $300, and the inconvernience of waiting around for the repair man. He would have made two trips since he would never have had this part with him.

Gain access to rear of refrigerator. Use protective board to prevent marring floor. Unplug refrigerator. Turn off water supply and depressurize line. Remove old water filter head. Disconnect filter head inlet water supply line located behind the refrigerator. Disconnect the filter head filtered water return line at the water valve. From refrigerator interior, disconnect the lower filter water cover. Press the outer cover away from filter head until one end is free of the water filter head tang and remove cover from second tang. Push the Styrofoam "block fill" toward the rear of the refrigerator to remove it. If you try to remove this from the outside by pulling it, it will likely break. Pull water filter head assembly to remove it. Install new part by reversing the steps.

Removed the back panel and swapped out the old board with the new. That was the easy part. Located the service manual under the frige and then had to program the new board. This was the hard part. If you did not press the buttons in the right order it would not work. I read the directions about 3 times before I was able to get this correct. If you pushed the wrong button you would have to start all over. I also had to replace the fan motor.

Ordered new drawer -- fast and easy to find the correct part on this site. I also felt that the price was very reasonable.
Except for one thing, it would have been simple to slide the new drawer in.
The original drawer has a white plastic "face" that is removable.
"Removable" is a relative term. It took my wife and I over 20 mins to very carefully remove the face without breaking. One person could not do it --- you need to hold the drawer firmly while another pries the face off carefully. Once off, it was able to be pushed on to the new drawer -- be firm.

I loosened the two top screws, removed the bottom screw, lifted up on ice maker and slid it off, unplugged the wire from refrig. I transfered the wire to the new icemaker, pluged it back in, placed it on the two screws, installed lower screw, tighten top screws. Total time spent less than 15 minutes. The ice maker cost $125.00 with freight. Sears wanted $374.00

I ordered a new crisper drawer from PartSelect over the internet one morning at approximately 10:00am, and the product was delivered, non-express delivery, the next day at about 4:pm. The front coverplate of the old crisper came off easily, and snapped into place on the new drawer easily. The entire repair/replacement took less than 5 minutes.
Service from PartSelect, from locating, to ordering, to rceiving the part could not have been simpler or more efficient. A 5 star experience.Thank you.

Pop loose the plastic grate at the bottom.

Locate and remove the wheel leveling screw from the front bottom corner.

Remove cotter pin from the pin that mounts the wheel assembly to the refrigerator. Tap out the mounting pin.

Lift out the wheel assembly.

Remove the Roller pin from the wheel assembly. I used a Dremel tool with a cutting disk. A hack saw will also probably work.

Install the new roller pin and wheel into the wheel assembly. Use a hammer or vice to peen over the end of the roller pin.

Reinstall and adjust wheel assembly.

First turned off the water at the valve. Next I undid the 5 screws holding the plate that holds the pump. Next disconnected the power connectors, then the water lines. Next undid the screw holding the pump, removed pump. Next, mounted the new pump to the plate, this was tricky because it has to fit kind of upside down, so you have to wrangle it into the proper position then align the screw hole. Next, secured it to the plate with the screw, re-connected the water lines, then the power. Before mounting it back to the fridge, I tested to see if it worked, well, it didn't. My heart sank. I re-checked all connections, I redid the entire process, disconnected and re-connected and still did not work. I researched the problem online and someone posted maybe the water filter might be clogged or defective. So I removed the water filter and put the stop plug in, and it worked perfectly. I went and exchanged the filter and plugged it in and still had the same problem. I am now suspecting the filter receptacle is the fault, but we will do without that for the time being. But the pressure is much better so changing the pump was still necessary. All in all a very interesting repair. I learned a lot about how the system works and now I need to replace the damper, it is very noisy.

(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!

Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.