JFC2087HRP Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

Grind rivet head off , install rivet tap end

I order a bare crisper frame, no glass, no slider controls. The old frame lifted out easily. I did not realize the glass top is not glued in, because food drippings had it somewhat stuck in place. But only somewhat - I almost dropped the glass when I turned the frame over. Once the glass was out, I removed the humidity sliders by gently lifting one end so I could slide them to a place where they lifted off. (Look for the notch-outs.) Then I put the parts in the new frame and put it back in the frig.

After unplugging the refrigerator, I removed the lower rear access panel that exposed the condenser and the overload/relay start capacitor with 1/4" nut driver (6 total). Next, I unplugged the wire harness and spring loaded keeper with needle nose pliers. Then I pulled the overload/relay start capacitor out of the 3 pronged male receptor located on the side of the condenser and plugged in the new one. Replaced the keeper, plugged the harness back in, and replaced the panel. Very easy fix.

Found instructions on You Tube how to replace Jazz P/C Board Replaced board and manually defrosted evaporator coil.Everything seems to be working fine

The fix was relatively easy but I could not get 2 of the screws removed. They were in very tight and I didn't have the right tools. Also, in the Amana refridgerator, they are in a "difficult to get at" location. I called my plumber friend and he helped me. Once the screws were out, the rest of the job went very smoothly as others have described. We took out the bad icemaker and reconnected the new one to the existing harness. I had ice in an about an hour. Thanks so much, PartSelect. The delivery was quick and the install was as many described on your website. You provide a wonderful service for the "do it yourselfer". Terri

removed old water head valve and replaced with the new one.

Unplug refrigerator. Remove the food trays in the freezer section. Unplug the wire connector to the icemaker. Remove the three screws to the icemaker then remove the icemaker. To remove the back panel, first remove the plastic cover on the top by inserting a screwdriver in the indicated slots on the sides then prying until cover snaps off. Remove the plastic cover for the temperature probe in the upper right corner by snapping off the cover and carefully fishing the probe through the hole in the cover. Remove the 4 screws in the rear panel and carefully pull panel out from rear of freezer section. Fish the temperature probe through the hole to allow the panel to be removed. Snap the plastic icemaker plug connecter mounting bracket out of rear panel and fish it through the panel. Now the rear panel can be completely removed. Locate the defrost thermostat in the upper section of the freezer compartment and unsnap it from the copper coil. Cut wires to the thermostat, being sure to leave enough length to splice the new thermostat in. Crimp the wires to the new thermostat using a butt connector and heat shrink tubing to seal up the connection. Snap the new thermostat onto the copper tube where the old one was positioned. It is a good idea to check the heater element with an ohmmeter while you have this all apart. Do this by unplugging the element on the right side and connecting one side of your meter to the plug there and the other side of your meter to the plug connection that is on the icemaker plug (trace the wires). If you do not get any continuity, then your element is bad and will need to be replaced. Replace the rear cover after re-installing the plug assemby for the icemaker and temperature probe. Dont forget to fish the icemaker tube and the temperature probe through the rear cover before screwing it back in place. re- install the plastic covers on the rear panel and the temperature probe, then reinstall the icemaker.

Couldn't believe how complicated this part is with heaters. It is used in at least a billion refrigerators and functions well. But I had to tear it all apart to adopt it. Got it all done and stayed awake all night for waiting for Ice. Nothing! Then a Erika moment! Turn the ice arm full switch off! Then Ice poured out every hour. Expecting many years of ice. Thanks for speedy delivery especially before Christmas..

need instr. to repair

The replacement itself was as easy as it gets. What made it harder was the need to remove the white plastic cover from the old drawer. Although some said it was easy, ours was a bit of a challenge. The video was helpful, in letting us know to start at the bottom when removing the cover. After that, pretty easy. No tools required.

Remove light lens by pushing straight back (needs some oomph, but not too much). Remove control housing by prying spring clips in back of housing with thin screwdriver or knife. Remove old control board by releasing plastic clips on both sections and removing 2 wiring plugs. Be careful snapping new control board in ; the alignment of the 4 switches and the 2 readouts is critical - easy to hang up a switch. Snap the control housing back into place, making sure that it is all the way in. Position the light lens so that it is lined up and about 1/2" back and then slide it forward (toward you) into place. The instruction sheet calls the refrigerator section the "fresh food" section. There are 2 light switches, one for each door. Both have to held down to get light to go out and enter programming mode. Easiest to close the right door, then push left door switch and quickly push the freezer DOWN button 3 times. Follow the instructions to set the program on the display and then push AND HOLD the freezer DOWN button until the display starts flashing. Release the freezer DOWN button, close the doors, open the doors to check. Display will indicate two 4s. (that was what mine indicated). Done.

As described in many of the previous peoples instructions. Upon removal of the end cap I did have to take the air controller apart and clean it. Apparently there was spillage we didn't know about until i took all the pieces apart. After cleaning, the items worked fine. I reinstalled and am back in business. All I had to do was remove the end cap screws and also the drawer slide screws. I replaced the door slide on the new end cap, replaced the cooler arms and then re-screwed the new end cap in place. Simple..Because of cleaning, time ran to about 30 minutes.

The repair was a lot easier than I thought. I first ordered the ice-maker part from PartSelect. Followed the instructions from the how-to video and I was done within 30 minutes. Unplugged the fridge, took out the two 1/4" nut screws holding up the ice-maker, disconnected the wiring harness and then re-attached the new ice-maker in reverse order. Had to use some of the parts from the old ice-maker, like the cover, ice wire (the wire that moves up and down, letting you know when the ice box was full or starts the ice-making process) The whole process along the PartSelect video made it easy.

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

Watch the video and then do the repair.