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replacing broken bottom baking element
the hardest part of this repair was the wait for the element to arrive in the mail - which was in 4 business days - then took 5 to 10 minutes to get to circuit breaker box in garage. That was the longest part of the repair. My husband took the door off the oven after turning the circuit off in the garage. Followed directions from others who made the same repair and it was done in 2 minutes! Super easy - thanks for saving us money during this time of tight budgeting around the holidays! You're a lifesaver!
i had to replace my oven element as is cracked in half
after finding my part and thank god for you guys i recieved it early it only took 4 days to get here i unscrewed my old oven part and popped the new one in easier than making cookies and now i can bake til my hearts content thanks for being there for me barbara krebs
Bake Element shorted out, burned out hi-limit switch
-Disconnected power from oven at the circuit breaker. -Removed oven door and racks. -Removed two screws holding element to the rear wall. -Carefully pulled element away from rear wall, exposing wire leads. -Carefully detached wire leads with male Sta-Kon connectors from element ends. (Taking care not to break or weaken the wires at the connector.) -Disposed of old element and placed new element in same position. -Re-attached leads by very carefully sliding male Sta-Kon connectors into the new element connectors, taking care not to push too hard and bend element wire. -Gently re-inserted element ends into wall and re-attached element to wall with original screws. -Reconnected power and tested new element. Element did not heat. -Disconnected power and looked for collateral damage from original element failure. -Removed oven from wall, removed rear panel and identified the high-temperature limit switch. -Removed Sta-Kon leads and checked switch for electrical continuity. It had none, apparently the result of the high current from original element short. -Obtained new hi-limit switch from Part Select -Removed and replaced hi-limit switch, re-attached leads. -Replaced rear panel and reinserted oven in wall. -Reconnected power and tested new element. Element heated normally. -Returned racks to oven, re-attached door and done.
Removed two nut screws (accessed with oven door open) with nutdriver, panel dropped out. Transferred wiring one-by-one to new switch, removed old switch with allen wrench, installed new switch, replaced panel. Done! However, the problem is not corrected and all other possibilities have been explored with no solution in site. Ideas needed.
First I turned the power off to the oven using the breaker switch. Removed the old bake element by first unscrewing the 2 screws for each bracket holding each side of the old bake element and unplugging the two current connections.
Replugged and rescrewed above. Turned breaker on for oven. Tested by turning oven to back and watching new bake element heat up.
Laid oven on towel covered island counter top. Removed original screws. Dry fit replacement glass face. Removed. Cleaned inner glass. Re-installed door face and secured. Placed door back on oven.
Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.
Video showed element being unplugged from inside oven. My oven wires did not extend into oven cavity and they fell behind the back oven wall when I unplugged them. After trying to catch the two wires using needle nose pliers through 3/4" holes several times, I finally decided to take the complete back off the range. When I did this, I was able to see the wires with the female couplings. I then had my wife firmly hold the new element against the back of the oven from inside letting me connect the wires to the new element and replace the oven back. THIS WOULD HAVE QUALIFIED AS "EASY" AND A 15 TO 30 MINUTE JOB if this technique had been known from the outset.
Element caught on fire when oven was turned on. Burned off coating on element.
Turned off power to oven. Removed screws from each side of element. Removed connectors to disconnect old element. Connected new element to connectors. Replaced screws, then turned on power to oven. Turned on oven to heat. Easy install.
I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis
