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The old switch had split into 3 pieces!
1st I found the 2 screws that held the control panel in place. Then the switch slid out of it's pocket, 3 wires pulled, and the new one replaced. The best part of this repair is finding this site. Other sites did not have adequate pictures of the switch. On this site I was able to recognize and double check (by bringing the switch to my monitor) before I bought. I bookmarked this site! Thanks! [PS. I revised my story, but would give you guys more like 4-5 stars! ]
The Model number could no longer be read clearly on the stove electric grill with a down draft vent system, so all I had was the size and looks of the old grease/air filter. I was very happy to come across Parts Select by way of an amazon.com search. Their web site's design and the parts pictures with detailed descriptions made it easy to find exactly what I needed. The grease filter fit perfectly in no time. I have successfully used my cooking grill again.
The only fan switch available for Jenn-Air was electrically compatible (amps, high/low control) with my 15 year old unit, but the existing mounting plate needed to be modified. The original switch was an undermount and the replacement switch snapped in from the top. This modification required a 1/2" drill bit and a file to square off the edges. Since the plate was cast from soft aluminum, it was fairly easy. Also, one of the spade connections needed to be changed (part supplied). It now looks good and works fine.
The lids are fastened to the underside of the unit by rivets....3 to each lid. I used a cordless drill and small drill bit to drill through the rivets to remove the old lids and remains of the rivets. The new lids are easily fastened back using a rivet gun ( about $20 in Lowes) using small 1/8th aluminum rivets. No real problems. 1 thing to note is that the drill bit will pass through the old rivet by about 1/4 inch before it comes up against the upper level of the BBQ floor so do not drill any deeper.The aluminum rivets are easy to drill through and you will easily feel when the rivet is drilled through.
Problem was the neutral connector spike was burned and didn’t make good connection. Service man said he couldn’t get parts and charged $100 and left. The neutral conductor cost about $12. And was an easy fix!
Turned off the power. Removed the assembly with two screws then removed the switch with two screws. Pulled off the wires. Put on the new switch and lights and reconnected the wires. Reattached the assembly. Turned on the power. All OK.
Our stove is from 1978 and was missing all but one drip bowl. I bought all the replacement parts from all the store, (Walmart, Target, Fred Meyer) nothing fit. I finally found this site and they fit perfectly! Thank you. If I have to keep the stove a while longer at least it looks clean and new now, and it still works great!
removed 2 screws from back of control plate. (screws located inside vent intake area.) lifted control plate unplugged broken light. slipped new light through hole in control plate plugged in light then replaced control plate. Takes about 5 minutes
The 15-year-old Jen-Air stove started smelling really bad. I thought it was a dead animal stuck in the exhaust tube which runs under the floor to the outside. I flushed it out with clorine bleach, but it was still bad. It turned out to the be the grease filter. I washed it every week in the diswasher, but it just was not enough to get it clean enough. Finally, the grease went rancid and smelled really bad. This "repair" took about 30 seconds.
Turn off power, removed wires from switch, unscrewd lock nuts. Did the reverse to put the new switch with the exception of the the power which should always be turned off first. Took less than 5 min. to install. Wife happy!! which makes me happy.
Extremely easy. First, I turned powr off to appliance at electric panel (don't trust switches). Next, I removed the 2 screws that held the panel cover, removed the dials, and removed 2 screws at each one (total eight) - this requrid a hex screw driver bit, which I had in my handy set. I proceeded to loosen the panel, and disconnect the wires attached to the old switch (this may be tricky - mine came off easy, but did require care as to not to strip the wire from the clamp). Once the old switch was removed and the plastic housing unscrewed, I attached the new fan assembly, and connected the wires, and reinstalled everything back in the same order. (This is a good time to clean all the grease and dirt that has collected thru the years-before you put everything back). Turned the power back on, and everything worked like before. I figured I saved about 4 hours worth of labor (4x$50=$200 / minimum) plus any inflated part price I would have paid for a $20 part from PartSelect! It felt good!