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Interior Light Burned Out
M/W mounted in wall so the hardest part was dismounting it and remounting it. That involved removing the frame, removing the top and bottom brackets, unplugging the unit and sliding it out. The repair was just removing about 10 sheet metal screws that held the metal case on and then unplugging the wires to the lamp and removing one screw that held the lamp in. That whole process in reverse puts it all back together.
Now the lamp works great when the M/W is in use or when the door is open. However, since it was a "Me" operation, I now have another problem. When the M/W is in use it is really quiet like maybe there is a fan not working. And after a medium to long use, the whole thing blacks out and cannot be used again until it all cools down. Once the display comes back on, you have to reset the clock and it's ready to go for the next usage.
I guess I either unhooked something or shorted something when I had the case open. Obviously I'll be taking it apart again soon.
Symptom: Terrible sparking coming from the right side of the microwave even with nothing in the microwave. The part that was behind the cover was the business end of what I learned was the magnetron,
Repair process: Without appliance repair experience I went onto Google and searched for parts for my model PEB1590DM2WW. I was able to find a great parts schematic on partselect.com. At first I ordered a magnetron and while waiting for the parts to arrive I also learned that the capacitor can also fail easily as described in the other install feedback on the partsselect website. So I ordered a capacitor just in case. These convection microwaves are around $600 new so a $80 in parts is not out of line for 8 years of service. I installed the magnetron first and turned it on. sparking immediately continued so I quickly shut the unit off. After replacing the capacitor and letting it charge for several minutes before trying to start the microwave cycle was the issue. I choose to leave the replaced magnetron as the original unit was discolored and felt the replacement was inexpensive insurance. I also learned that if the wave guide (which is a plastic/metallic composite material) that covers the opening to the magnetron is burnt or has metal melted to it as mine did it will act similar to the microwave having metal inside the enclosure and will continue to spark and basically melt the wave guide further. Replacing the wave guide was very easy as well.
I am very thankful for the knowledge base and support available from Partselect.com as they made this repair possible on my own. Thank you partselect.com
Microwave does not have power at all, though outlet has power
unplugged power cable / unhooked front vent / unscrew the monitor panel / slide up to dislodge / take the fuse out and put in the new one in / fuse is located right in front of monitor panel once its open might be covered by wirings / you can unpin the cables from the panel to make it easier for you just make sure to put it back properly or you can have somebody hold the panel for you. Installing the fuse is easy waiting for the parts is crazy......
Disassembled the front cover, found slow blow fuses, then replaced with microwave fuses 250V-20Amp. Utilized a few fuses to pin point the problem, Microwave functions all worked except the express feature, made an assumption after using a tester that it was the high voltage capacitor and the diode that attaches. Replaced both, plugged in and tested. Worked! reinstalled the unit. Sucessfull for the past month.
Traced problem to the door primary interlock microswitch.By the way this is the second time this switch has failed. Switch appears to fail after about 3 years. Replacing the lamp was bear.I have the SCA2000BCC03 advantium. It is almost impossible to replace the interior light. After removing from wall remove the case and the control panel disconnecting all of the wires. Gentley pull cavity outward giving you enough room to get an offset philips screwdriver on the single screw retaining the lamp. Its a bear but its possible to do and probably saves you $150 service charge. GE must have assembled the bulb unit before placing it into the unit. There is no simple way to replace the bulb. Maybe new units have easier access. My is 12 years old.
I needed to remove the front fascia plate and remove the microwave from the cabinet. Then I had to remove the microwave cover. This entailed some difficulty because GE used special screw heads to discourage people from fixing their own appliances. Then, I had to find the bulb fixture and that also was difficult and not obvious.
Opened door to get food put more food in closed door it wouldnt work
Everything worked on the display light inside worked but when you closed the door and set time it would start counting down but not heating nor would the turntable turn. Started reading troubleshooting chart and first thing I did was removed the cover and checked door switches and found primary door switch wasn't working so I ordered a new one installed it and it worked. Anyone doing this has to be very careful because of the stored energy in the capacitor is strong enough to kill. My micro is only 2 years old so I was hoping it wasn't anything major.
I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL OF THE MICR0WAVE AND THEN REMOVED ONE SCREW TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. rEMOVED OLD SWITCH. SNAPPED IN NEW SWITCH AND CONNECTED WIRE. REPLACED CONTROL PANEL AND UPPER PANEL.
The microwave had been mistakenly turned on with nothing in it and the turntable coupler was badly burned. Pieces of it eventually broke off.
The burned remnant of the coupler was a bit difficult to remove. I did so with a pliers and also used the pliers to clear out some burned fragments of the coupler. With a flashlight I determined that the slot for the coupler was now clear. I matched the configuration of the slot with that of the new coupler and it slid immediately into place with no difficulty whatever.
the glass circular tray inside had cracked in half.It was of no use. I reordered another
The tray came within 5 days and I simply took it out of its well-packaged box and slipped it into my microwave. It is working just like new. I can't thank you all for being so punctual and reliable. better than having to buy a brand new microwave.
Removed back screws, pulled cabinet off from the rear, unplugged lamp on upper right side in front reattached two wires, replaced 1 screw to hold lamp in place, reinstalled cabinet and done.
Actually followed prior instructions on your site. Spot on.
I removed the main cover ( torx security bit required) and tested the magnetron, capacitor, diode and door interlock switches according to instructions found on the internet. The capacitor and diode tested good but the magnetron looked burnt and corroded on the tip. The magnetron I received was an exact replacement for the original. It was easy to replace the magnetron which arrived in 2 days standard shipping. I also cleaned the fan while I had access to the inside area. Hoping to get another 18 years use from the microwave!
Frost build up on bottom to ice bin and delivery chute in door creating ice blockage
Remove the ice bin. Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF" Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one. Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug) Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON" Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
the TCO is a temperature fuze on the side of the exhaust outlet. When the exhaust registers too high a heat temperature the fuze blows and stops the entire unit from working.
I replaced the TCO (fuze) through the vent opening after removing the vent cover and several small panels with a screw driver for visible access.. Some of the screws require a small offset screwdriver because of the limited access. I did not have to drop the unit from the wall over the range and was able to access through the vent opening to replace to failed TCO with a new one. The TCO is wired in-line with the power and other fuses to the unit and when it fails the enitire unit is cold with no power to lights or function of any kind. The GE service rep. said that the unit needed a new smart board but that was not the problem and they are no longer made for the older unit. I discovered the repair by looking at YouTube for repairs for the GE Advantium 120 microwave/convection combo unit.
