Models > JDS9860AAP > Instructions

JDS9860AAP Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for JDS9860AAP parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the JDS9860AAP
256-270 of 273
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Maytag range had "F3" code display, oven would not work.

  • Customer: phillip from Farmington NM
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

The igniter on my stove wouldn't ignite.

  • Customer: keith from massillon OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Watched a video on replacing igniter. Removed old igniter and replaced it with new igniter.

Oven would not heat above 200 degrees when set at 350 degrees. Element would not get hot (not red).

  • Customer: Douglas from Fenton MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Turn off power (at breaker panel). Pull out range from wall and unplug electrical cord from outlet. Remove retaining screw at each side of element. Slowly pull out element from back of oven to expose electrical connector. Use pliers to pull connector apart (do not pull on wire). With element disconnected, measure resistance between the two ends of the element. Found infinite resistance or open circuit. Ordered replacement part and measured new part to be 20 ohms. Installed new element by pushing on connectors to new element. Carefully push new element into oven back wall and secure with the 2 screws. Plug electrical connector into wall socket and push range back to the wall. Turn on breaker switch. Turn on oven to verify fix. Note: Confirm there is voltage on both legs of wall socket for 220 volts which will confirm the breaker at panel is functioning. This can be done before removal of element from the range.

Oven would not heat on Back Cycle

  • Customer: Jeff from Thousand Oaks CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
The thermocouple was suspect. It should be super easy- two screws, but the wiring harness would not pull through on my oven. I confirmed the procedure with the PartSelect video which is good. The harness was caught and broke so I had to pull the oven out partially to get to the harness. The sensor did check bad on the multimeter (resistance too high- Google it, I did) so I ordered the part. Once the new part was installed the oven still did not function. So I had to get busy with the multimeter and pull the oven again. On the back of my oven near the wire to the bake element is a Hi Limit Switch which cuts off the bake element if the outside of the oven gets above the preset temperature. Mine was cracked and faulty and had to be replaced. The oven works great now.

range- top four burners will not light

  • Customer: Rick from Brockway PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
removed rear cover where the spark module was and change it

Oven element started getting hot spots and then just failed.

  • Customer: Timothy from Alfred Station NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Simply remove the two screws in the back and carefully work the element out taking care not to pull the wires off. I left the oven door on which made access somewhat awkward reaching in. Remove wire clips and install new element in reverse. So easy even a caveman could do it.

Range had an F-2 code on the control panel

  • Customer: Greg from Frederick MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the old thermostat and replaced it with the new one using the supplied wiring adapter for my model of range. Parts Select made this an easy project. Thanksyou

burner very hard to get out

  • Customer: kenneth from brooklyn NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Used strap wrench to turn out. Rust build up under the burner. Used flat screwdriver to loosen under burner and strap wrench to turn out. Then replaceing the igniter was very easy.

bottom element sparked out and no longer heated

  • Customer: dan from LaCrosse WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
unplugged the oven from the 220 volt receptacle. Removed the wire shelves. Unscrewed the two screws holding element to rear of oven. (I didn't know at this point to pull the wires through from the back so I took the back panel of the oven off and unplugged the connectors from the rear). Measured the defective element, ordered, and two days later I reversed the process when the package arrived in the mail. . quite simple. I love it when I can fix something myself. And by fixing, I actually mean "replacing".

Oven would overheat

  • Customer: MARK from roseville MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Followed directions as supplied. New part did not work, so it must be in the control unit which is no longer available. So time for a new range.

lower baking element burned out

  • Customer: Jim from Three Rivers MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
followed you tube instructions. Very helpful feature. thanks

Bottom bake element was burned out and no longer heating.

  • Customer: Paul from Mooresville NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Remove both oven racks. Remove the screw that is on each side of the element holding it in. Pull the element out and disconnect the wire on each side of the element.Remove the bad element and replace it with the new element. Connect the wires to the new element and gently push the element back into place. Put the screws back into place and tighten. Replace the oven racks into oven. Turn oven onand verify that the element is heating. Repair is comlete.

F5 fault code kept appearing

  • Customer: Louis Rodriguez from Granbury TX
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

No spark at any of the 4 stovetop burners.

  • Customer: Ronald from Berkeley CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
UNPLUG THE POWER CORD! This particular model is a (slide-in) unit, it was wedged between to fixed cupboards/cabinets. Therefore, there are really no side panels to speak of, this made the repair slightly easier. I simply slid the unit out enough to unplug the power cord and access the right side of the unit. All one needs, at this point, is a Phillips head screw driver to remove a small metal panel installed just below the stove top panel (right side of range), its held with approx. 8 screws. There is one other panel that must be removed as well, (you may want to remove this panel first). It is an enameled-like panel approx. 5" wide x 36" long located at the front of the range (right side) running the length/height of the range (held with 2 screws). Get those 2 panels removed and you will see the spark module attached near center of range just under stove-top panel. Module is attached to a small metal bracket, module has 6 wires attached to it (2 feeding the module and 4 exiting the module to the burners). Bracket screws are nearly impossible to get at (you need a very stubby Phillips screw driver, if you can even get your hand in there). Anyway, I simply released the module from the bracket, then carefully bent the bracket back toward me; to provide work area for my hands. The bracket bends easily and really can't be broken. Now, at this point (using longer needle-nose pliers) detach the wires from the old module (remembering each wires location) or, as I did, hold the replacement module near the existing module and transfer the wires one at a time. Now, slap it all back together as you took it apart. Really simple job, total time is easily/generally under 30 minutes. It may be easier to access the module by removing all the burner components and raising the stove-top? Not sure? I chose not to do the repair that way. Hard part was locating where the manufacturer hid the module on the range. :- ) D.I.Y.ers Rock!!!

I had a power serge and it burned the Plug at the termial block and melted a few wire.

  • Customer: Robin from Vanderbilt PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.
All Instructions for the JDS9860AAP
256-270 of 273