JDB3610BWX Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

I opened the end stop of the rack, replaced the roller, and put the end stop back on. I can't believe I paid the repairman the last time $125????? An he put in a regular screw that rusted and broke the roller. Took me 3 minutes! Thanks

I watched the installlation video found on the wedsite and followed his directions.

First of all, I removed the existing lower dishrack. That was a piece of cake! The part that was tricky was getting the spray arm out of the center so that it could be placed into the new dishrack. I finally figured out that I simply had to twist this piece (I think to the right) to remove it. I reversed this step to place the spray arm assembly into the new dishrack. And then VOILA...I just slid the new dishrack in place!

The lower rack of my dishwasher was falling apart right before my eyes. Tines were breaking off and there was so much rust that my dishes were beginning to become stained. After reading the comments posted at PartsSelect, I decided to try replacing the rack instead of buying a whole new dishwasher. From the posted comments I was able to figure out that the spray tower could be easily removed if I pressed down on it and turned it counterclockwise. After removing the old rack and sliding in the new one, I simply reversed the order, pressing the plastic tower down and turning it clockwise. It was SO simple I was embarassed that I had waited so long to attempt it, and that I had considered replacing a perfectly good dishwasher just because the lower rack was falling apart! I'd also like to add that the rack came in two days! Great service, great price, great web site. Thanks!

I ordered and replaced both the door gasket (easy) and inner door seal (difficult) to try and correct a leak during operation. The door gasket was easily replaced. However, the inner door seal was a bit more trouble. After removing the inner door I found that the old inner seal needed to be removed and surfaces thoroughly cleaned of old build-up of dishwasher soap residue, in order to allow the sticky back tape side of door seal to properly stick to the door. There also was a plastic cover over the wire bundle that needed to be cleaned. The inner door seal was the exact length, so proper positioning of the sticky back was very important.
Upon reassemly the leak still existed and I was unable to correct the leak. Further inspection indicated that the basic tub/body of the dishwasher might be slightly distorted due to age and may not create seal with door seal as originally designed.
I guess I need to find a new dishwasher, at this point.
A word to the wise: Check to see if the tub/body is still in good condition.

I suspected that the wax motor had gone bad based on reviews I had read. The repair requires a TORX bit to remove seven screws holding the plastic cover on the inside of the door. I sat in a chair with the door resting on my knees and took the screws out. Once open, the two wax motors are under the cover and easily accessible. You simply pull the wax motors out and detach two wire plugs. You should note how the wires are attached. The wire plugs were a little difficult to pull off but with a little effort they came straight off. Once new wax motors were installed, the soap dispenser opened.

I was also using a gel dishwasher detergent and was told that, for some reason, it might have begun to act like glue and this might also have prevented the soap dispenser from opening. I switched to powder and that did not solve the problem leading me to replace the wax motors. The soap dispenser spring seems a little weak so I have continued using powder.

Remove lower cover to expose the motor, valves and electrical connections. turn off water supply and electrical circuit breaker. Disconnect leads from float switch. Remove float switch with a single phillips head screw. Replace with new one and attach leads---very easy.

Remove water inlet electrical connections--remember which goes to which connector. Disconnect hot watter supply with open ended box wrench.
Remove water inlet valve from washer wall by unscrewing two sheet metal screws. Use 1/4" socket and 3" extension for this. Use pliers to release the hose clamp holding the rubber water line onto the valve outlet stem. Reverse this sequence to intall the new switch. Moderately easy. Have sponge and paper towels to soak up spills when you do the disconnects.
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Once I figured out how to get the endcap off the roller track (allow several minutes, because it was designed by some dork), I slipped the old roller off the track, put the new roller on, and clipped it to the rack. Then I put the track cap back on (really easy once you've figured out how to get it off) and it was good as new.

As for how the cap comes off, it's difficult to describe. But it may help you to know that the cap, despite what it looks like at first, is actually surprisingly long and folded on top of itself. Pulling it directly out doesn't work; you have to unfold it before there's any chance of getting it out.

I removed the two plates located below the dishwasher door to expose the float switch. I removed the two screws holding float switch, I removed screw holding switch actuator, then I removed float assembly.
Installed new float assembly, but could not use the float palnut, it had too small of a hole, I substituted a larger one that fit the float better. Note I fitted the palnut to the float (the nut cuts it's own threads in the float) before installing the float. This made installation easier. Next I transferred the two wires from the old float switch to the new float switch in the same positions as the existing switch wires. Then I installed the float switch. Finally, I cleaned up the float switch actuator and screw so that the actuator moves freely on the screw. I then installed the float switch actuator and ran the dishwasher to check for proper operation. Note: this float and switch control the water level in the dishwasher. If the actuator sticks, the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. If the float has collected dirt inside, it will weigh more and the water level will be too high, causing the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. If the switch sticks or fails the water level will be too high, causing the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. That is why I relaced the parts: float and switch. I don't want to go back and work on this again.
Lastly, after a few days of proper operation, I installed the two plates located below the dishwasher door. Job done!

1. I removed the covers below the door and watched during a wash cycle to see where the water was leaking. There was a small pinhole on the rubber connector at the end of what turned out to be the "top shower hose". I was hoping I could just replace that rubber connector, but apparently it is permanantly attached to the entire "top shower hose" assembly.
2. To remove the top shower hose I first turned of the circuit breaker to the dishwasher.
3. I needed to slide the dishwasher about half way out of the cabinet, requiring removal of two screws at the top of the dishwasher attaching it to the counter.
4. I also had to turn off the water and disconnect the water supply hose (at supply valve, not inside the washer) because it had no slack to allow the dishwasher to slide out of the cabinet.
5. I removed the hose clamp at the bottom of the dishwasher.
6. I removed the top dish rack (there are clips on the ends of the rails that can be opened to allow the rack to come out).
7. I popped off the upper washer arm by fiddling with the clip mechanism. Then I removed the threaded "nut" holding the hose in place.
8. As others mentioned, it is good to remember to save and re-use the hose clamp and rubber washer.
9. Removed the old hose.
10. Ordered new hose, waited for delivery. Kids washed dishes by hand for a few days.
11. Installed the new hose. Replaced the rubber washer at the top end and fastened with the "nut." Replaced the washer arm and top dish rack.
12. Connected the bottom end of hose, re-using the hose clamp.
13. Positioned dishwasher back under cabinet and replaced screws.
14. Re-connected the water supply hose.
15. Turned circuit breaker back on.
16. Began using dishwasher again. Observed a few wash cycles to ensure no leaks.
17. Re-attached the covers below the door.
18. Done.

First, removed end cap in steel sliding upper rail, second, removed broken roller, third, attached new roller, you can look at other rollers to see how it goes on, fourth, feed new roller into track, replace end cap. Takes less than 10 min, saved 85. 00 Bucks.

Took off old part. Modified new roller w'knife. Found a nut and bolt in scrap pile. Attached.

I first turned off the water to the dishwasher, then the electricity to it, then took off the front bottom access panel, I then unbolted the inlet valve from the side of the machine, undid the electrical hookups remembering which one connected to which, then unclamped the two hoses, I then put the new one back in place, redoing the hoses and electrical and bolting it back to the side of the machine, then putting the front bottom access panel back on, then turning back on the water and electicity. The one thing that may make it easier if you can is to pull the dishwasher out from under the cabinets and lay it down so the bottom is exposed. This would make the process a little smoother.

I pulled the interior of the door until I was able to get to the switches on the door latch. I determined at least one switch was completely worn while the other worked minimally. I then looked for the latch assembly and found out that it was no longer available. So I did some searching and found the exact switches I needed from PartSelect. The switches came in about 3 days which then I installed them. The dishwasher powered right up and stayed on. So in the end it was much cheaper to repair this unit than buy a new one right now. Plus, my wife is happy and so am I. Thanks PartSelect for carrying the parts I needed.

Figure out how to remove the spray arm (15 min); remove all the parts below (15 min); figure out what's not right (5 min). the pump discharge head is two parts. The flat disk that is attached to the under side of the discharge head came off and was being ground up by the impeller nut. Hence the noise. I superglued it back together and ordered the replacement parts. the superglue lasted through about 1 rinse cycle. The repair parts arrived the following day, and since I already knew how to disassemble and reassemble, the actual replacement was about 15 minutes. The dishwasher hasn't been this quiet in over 2 years.