JCD2389GEW Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then unscrewed the four remaining screws with a star screwdriver and pulled the element out and disconnected the wire. I removed the part containing the solenoid, spring loaded holder and the plastic closer. I did not need to replace the solenoid or the spring loading device only the round circular piece that opens and closes the ice door. I just snapped it into the spring loaded part and replaced everything as I had removed it. It was very simple. Your need the star screwdriver though for removing the screws.

Defrosted coils with hair drier and after the freezer was turned back on the freezer cooled to 0 Deg. within 4 hours but coils collocted ice. Checked coil with ohmmeter OK replaced Defrost Assy. Repair was very easy and new replacment unit is sealed and the original is an open curcuit board. thanks for allowing me to share this with you!

This is the 2nd time I replaced the ADC, the freezer condenser was frosting up again and wouldn't keep the freezer or refrig cold. 1st part only lasted 6-months. The simple fact is that the ADC used in the Maytag as well as others is under designed; I purchased 2-this time, 1's a spare, and you know it going to need to be replaced again. Sadly I'm stuck with this Refrigerator for at least 2-years before I buy another, it's only 5-years old. From my experience (with other Maytag products I've purchased recently) I'd never buy another Maytag product, ever! Since Whirlpool bought Maytag, I'm taking Whirlpool off my list too. Thanks Partselect for such a speedy delivery on the part everything back to normal, at least for now, wished I knew how long this ADC will last?

I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!

This repair was relatively easy due to the instructions provided and took about 15 minutes. Originally, I had bought a door flap thinking that was the problem (a small plastic piece on the flap had broken off) but after replacing that the assembly still would not allow ice flow. I then purchased the kit including solenoid and the repair worked. I had a bad solenoid all along. My suggestion is to replace the entire kit rather than one part as it is likely all parts need replacement.

The old icemaker had a bad motor and would stall in the fill cycle causing my kitchen to flood on occasion.

The new one was so quiet, I thought it didn't work!

Anyway, one nutdriver and 5 minutes and I had the new one in there... It is so quiet, and I always have plenty of ice now!!!

Thanks!!!

From the beginning I have never had good water flow in the door and ice cubes turned out funky. I tried replacing the filter once with hardly noticeable change. The change I did see was $35 less in my pocket. So I bought a filter bypass plug and it now works like a champ. I have well water so I trust its quality and I am very satisfied. I would describe how I did the repair but if you don't no how to change out the filter you probably shouldn't be trying it.

I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.

Thanks,
Matt

Simple to fix. Watched the video and noted what to do.
Replaced the control board, solenoid, and limit switch. Woks like new!

My ice maker was overflowing and i realized that it was the water valve that needed replaced. unscrewed 1 nut, unhooked 3 water lines, unhooked electrical components and re-installed in reverse order. took about 10-15 mins.

I removed all contents from the lower shelf. I, then removed both of the pull out drawers. Secondly, I removed the lower glass shelf and the glass support tray. At this point all four plastic shelf supports were accessible. I removed the inner screw from all four supports and replaced with four new shelf supports. Then reassembled in reverse order. Very easy to do!

I read many reviews on how to change the seal/gasket, and decided that as I was the only one around to do the job, it would be easier to take the fridge door off and then lay it flat. remember to take the handle off as well. Then it was a case of taking each screw of, there are many to remove. While this job was being completed, I placed the new gasket in hot water from the tap to soften the gasket as it came in a box folded. Once all the screws were removed , then it was a case of fitting on the new gasket starting from top and working my way around. finally placing all the screws back, but not too tight. Then I placed the door back and also placed a flash light in the fridge to see if any light was coming out. The door opened and closed without any problems and the seal did not have any gaps. finally with door on the fridge, I tightened the screws-only hand tight. Job completed. This may sound obvious, but any way, dont forget to disconnect the fridge from the electrical supply, otherwise you risk burning out the motor, with all the extra work the fridge has to do, while you are doing the replacement.

I bought the following parts:

PS109042 Double Outlet Water Valve
PS46363 Dual Outlet Water Valve Kit

When I bought the fridge, the part that PS109042 replaces was cracked and leaking water badly. When I ordered the replacement part, I got confused and ordered PS46363 by mistake. The original parts look similar even when side by side, but the replacement parts are revised drastically.

PS46363 is for the line that is between the water source and the water filter. The original lines from the filter are split (the original part has two inlets) and pipe to one inlet. You'll have to cut your hose right before it forks. The directions that come with the part are very straight-forward.

PS109042 actually distributes the filtered water to the water dispenser and icemaker. The old part had plastic fittings that held the water hosing to the part. The new part has no plastic fittings, yet holds the hosing to the part tightly. The directions that come with the part are very short and concise.

I also replaced the factory water filter with a Brita replacement (they are cheaper and I've used Brita filters before...they are solid).

All in all, I spent less than $100 on fixing a $500 used fridge that works as good as new. My wife was initially doubtful but fairly satisfied with the cost of the parts and the simplicity of installing them.

first i remove the two screws like the guy said on your web site. then i pulled the cover off with a upward motion revealing three more screws witch i removed. I then removed the dispencer. unpluged the wires and removed the switch and pad and replaced with new parts.I reinstalled the wires then the unit, installed the screws and cover.Checked for proper operation.Then enjoyed that cold beer! Thanks to your wed site and repair info. I saved at least 100 buck to the repair man. Thanks Partselect.com

Easy to diagnose problem because there was water to the water dispenser but none to the newly installed icemaker. Originally did attempt to clean the solenoid but found the plunger assembly damaged.

New part arrived sooner than I thought it would. Takes about as much time to remove the lower vent cover as to replace the valve. Remove the electrical plug from the wall, valve off the main water supply, remove lower vent cover, disconnect the supply hose from refrigerator valve assembly, remove one hex head mounting screw and you have both water valves in your hands. Identify the valve the supplies water to the filter and the one that supplies water to the icemaker/water dispenser. Then confirm which plastic water supply line goes to the water dispenser and which goes to the icemaker. Hose diameters are different but it is good to know. Disconnect the plastic water supply lines from both the ice dispenser and the icemaker portions of the valve. Replacement solenoid valve does not have thread on type compression fittings. Snip about an inch off of each hose and then press into the appropriate valve orifice.

Making sure the plastic supply lines do not get crimped, remount the valve assembly, reattach the supply hose, valve on the water and check for leaks. No leaks, reinstall dust cover and plug the refrigerator back in.

Move the unit back in place and then take a long deserved beer out and have a celebratory toast for a job well done.