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water overflow,coating on tray peeling off
remove 3 screws,rotate assembly,depress lock on wire harnass connector,un plug harnass.remove old assembly,remove and transfer side cover and steel wire at front of assembly,connect harnass to new assembly,rotate into place,aling screw holes and install 3 screws.flip front steel wire down and wait for about 1 hour,first tray of ice will fall..all done.
I read the previous repair story and agree with the author that the screw behind the front piece was difficult to remove and re-install. If I had a magnetized nut driver I think it would have been easier. There were no installation instructions so I relied upon the repair experiences. The other two screws came out easily and I found the harness release easily and the harness was easy to reinstall. I am not a good handyman but was able to install the new ice maker
Ice maker flaked and leaked leaving big glob of ice
Unplug wire harness back of fridge. Unscrewed 4 screws on guide for ice bin. then unscrewed two screws holding ice maker to wall of fridge. removed ice maker. then had to take front cover off (pull hard, it comes off) and remove wire harness plug from the ice maker. save this, front cover, and all hardware to re-use. reverse steps to reinstall, including wire guide that goes up and down to stop and start ice maker when bin fills. Have to put this into front part of ice maker correctly for it to work. make sure it is down so that it will produce ice. ice tray took a few hours to fill with water initially, must be on a timer or something.
Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.
Old ice maker leaking water and produced ice cubes with black inclusions. First, I removed old ice maker per video instructions. Transferred electrical cable, cover, and bail to new ice maker. First installation failed because I failed to make sure water tube correctly enter back of ice maker. No ice. Initially thought electrical cable wasn't firmly in place. Then I noticed frozen water dripping down back of freezer. A clue! Removed ice maker and reinstalled making sure water tube went through the hole in back of ice maker. Now the new ice maker works beautifully!
Remove 1 screw under ice maker. Gently pull downwards to unhook ice maker. Disconnected 4 pin wire connector. Remove and set aside the cover and wire loop you will need on new ice maker. Reverse the steps to install new maker. Once new ice maker is installed you will have to wait 2-4 hours for ice. There is a thermostat that will need to reach 10 degrees F to operate.
Followed Youtube video from Free Repair Help. Only problem was getting down low enough to see the pins on the Compressor to plug the replacement Compressor Start Device and Capacitor-could not replace the old clip to hold the unit to the Compressor like the old unit had. At 77 I just have a problem bending over.
I looked at a video on YouTube that described how to check if the water inlet valve was working. By using an ohm meter, it indicated the water valve was bad. I could hear the ice maker trying to make ice. I ordered the part; it was shipped that day. The email confirmation also had a video on how to change. I watched and changed it out quickly. The valve is easy to take out by disconnecting the water line and quick disconnect electrical line. (Turn off water and unplug unit). I took pictures of my steps so I could remember the valve orientation. The new valve went in the same way in just 2 minutes. I needed a 1/4 inch nut driver.
We had a full ice tray in 24 hours.
Our freezer door handle popped off and I learned how to put it back by watching a YouTube video.
I am not handy at this type of repair but this was a great experience. Thank you!!
Freezer temperature goes down to -20*F before compressor stops but refrigerator side remains normal 38*F and compressor makes a grunting noise while running.
Unplug ref then remove lower(freezer) panel plus trays and thermistor’s cover/holder then remove the evaps cover. I found the evaps all frozen up. Cut and remove old thermistor, strip wires 1/2 inch then cut the new thermistor wires to length and strip 1/2 inch, use the enclosed insulated crimp type connector and put back everything in the reverse order. It works great afterwards.
I went by the video but my removal and installation were different than shown.
Instead of the ice maker unclipping from the wall after one 1/4" screw being removed from the bracket, I had to remove three of the 4 Phillips head screws from the ice bucket slider below the ice maker and swivel it down to allow the ice maker bracket to clear. The two 1/4" screws holding the ice maker to the wall at the top had to be removed and then the ice maker could be pulled away from the freezer wall. The rest of the instructions went according to the video and went well.
Icemaker quit working, so replaced ice maker...was still not working, so realized it was the water inlet valve. Pulled fridge away from the wall, unplugged electrical, removed one screw from old water inlet valve, removed it, unplugged electrical connector, cut one inch of tubing going into inlet of new valve (per instructions). Put back in place, plugged in, and now making ice again. VERY EASY!
