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noisy fan motor
rmv panel (5min) rmv fan/motor 3 screws (10 m) cut wire 2in from motor, re route remainder of wire to front so can strip for wire nuts. ( 10m) attach old fan to new motor, place in old opening ,3 screws, a little fussy to align, ( 15m ) route and strip wire from new motor , zip ties work well, wire nuts , plug in fridge vola, no noise, close up, reverse panel. ( 20m). i also took time to clean grilles with small vac and damp rag, ( looks and sounds like new) bob Wi.
The lid that covers the front of the lower meat / produce drawer hinges upward on two small ( easily broken) plasic pins, one on each side of the drawer. One pin is moulded into each "END CAP" that also supports the drawer glides and glass shelf above. The entire end cap must be replaced to repair the hinge. The left side is easy (it's the only one I had to replace); the right side might be more difficult because the right end cap includes a temperature control. 1) Remove the two produce drawers above the lower drawer. 2) Lift off the front glass shelf support, the glass shelf, and the rear glass shelf support from below the two produce drawers. 3) Slide the lower drawer half way out. Remove the drawer lid by disengaging it from the remaining undamaged hinge pin on the OK end cap. Careful not to break the good one. 4) Slide the lower drawer all the way out, then lift up and towards you to remove it from its glides. 5) Using a 1/4" nutdriver or socket, remove the three recessed screws. Leave the drawer glide alone for now. 6) Pull the front of the end cap up and towards you about 3/4" to disengage it from a small retainig button at the top front. Pull the end cap toward you to disengage the two rear retaining fingers. 7) Using a small Phillips screwdriver, remove the drawer glide from the broken end cap and attach it to the replacement end cap. Note which end is the front before removing it. 8) Reassemble in reverse order. Again, be careful with the hinge pins.
Original parts froze when the fridge was stored in the garage, so when we brought it in and hooked up the water supply we discovered the cracks.
I used a wrench to remove the back lower cover of the fridge. attached to that cover were both the parts I needed to replace. I removed one nut each per part so they were free of the back cover. Once free I unhooked the two electrical plugs per part and reattached the new part so as not to confuse the positions of the wiring. Then I did the same thing with the two hoses attached to each part, swapping old part for new. Once connected, I reattached the new parts to the back cover and replaced the back cover to the fridge. Connected the water line and tried the ice maker and water source on the door. I didn't realize it, but the filter, located in the refrigerator side of the unit had also frozen and cracked, so I had water now pouring from the fridge! Replaced that filter, cleaned up the water and everything is working great!
800 number customer service person Kim originally helped me locate the correct parts via schematic diagram, as no part numbers were visible on my broken parts. She was incredibly helpful and got the correct parts on her first guess ( she told me it was a guess but she was right on the money).
While cleaning frig, I broke the right side pin the crisper door pivits on.
First I looked at new replacement part, saw what held the part to the frig. Then removed the crisper drawers and vegie drawers and related support pieces. Used socket wrench to take out three screws and started so remove endcap. Realized endcap was attached to a piece that controls air flow to drawer, located supporting screw, removed and entire assembly came right out. I fumbled my way through the linking mechanism being very careful not to force and break anything. Once I figured out how all this worked, it went back together in a few minutes. Replaced the four screws that held the 2 pieces (endcap and airflow) to frig, replace drawer slid, replaced all draws. Done 30 minutes, start to finish. I found Customer Service VERY helpful while ordering piece, couldn't believe it was under $10 and fit exactly! Thanks PartSelect.com!
Had to replace a hose connector at the base of my refrig/frreezer
Perhaps a helpful hint:
When aI received the hose adapter/connector, I inserted the 2 hose ends only to have water drip from the connection. I used a utility knife to remove an inch from each side, then reinserted the hoses. That made the differnce. Dry as a bone.
The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.
Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the cables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.
Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.
It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)
The light switch on the refridgerator broke - no light.
Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.
The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.
The evap motor failed (no air movement inside of refrierater
Removed screws from cover tested for power to motor found power was on to motor but motor did not work. I went to your web site was able to locate part in about 5 minutes . Even with over night shipping the part came to about $50,00, far cheaper tha a service call would have been.
Turn water and refrigerator off, use hair to thaw the ice maker filler tube, then remove the filler tube inside the freezer. Next remove the water supply line cover plate in back of the refrigerator. Now remove the speed clip at the white pvc elbow and pull out the supply line. Next, grasp the pvc elbow with pliers and pull hard to remove. The new filler tube is a 1 piece design (filler tube and elbow combined) and needs to be cut to the proper length. Mark it inside the freezer, remove it and cut to length. Now coat the outside flange with caulk or PU glue and snap into the opening. Put the speed clip on the elbow first and center it. Ensure that the spreader insert is in place in the plastic tube, then slide the supply line into the elbow untill completely engaged. Replace cover.
Clicking noise every 1 minute - Refrigerator ran continuously
unplug Ref. and on back of Ref., take back panel off to locate compressor. Attached to the compressor are 2 small parts, secured to the Ref. w/ a small clip. Remove the clip w/ a pair of plyers. Remove the Capacitor (white plastic electric part)form the Compressor - the black overload relay will come off with it. Plug the new relay in to the Capactor. Locate the two wires (used to connect the Ref. to the Capacitor) from the Ref, unplug them from the old Capacitor/Relay and plug them in to the new part(s). Plug the new parts back in to the Compressor. Reinstall the the small metal clip that holds the Capacitor/Relay in place. Plug Ref. back in - if no noise, parts have worked (allow 5+ mintues to test).
Refrigerator stopped cooling. Pulled it out of the alcove and plugged it back in. Compressor starfted but noticed condenser fan was not turning. Unplugged fridge and tried to turn the fan by hand - frozen.
Remove the back hardboard cover screws for access to the condenser fan. I opted to tip the fridge over on its side for even better access to the fan mounts and wire. Replaced the fan assy (reused the fan). Splice the wire and it's done.
My husband replaced the condenser fan. It took awhile and a few choice words but he got it replaced. The fan seemed to work fine, but it still wasn't cooling. I noticed that when we had the fridge unplugged that water started draining out the dials at the top of the fridge under the freezer. And there was absolutely no water at all in the drip pan under the fridge. So I took the doors off and totally took the inside of the freezer apart. I discovered that the styrofoam on the floor of the freezer had become inudated with fluid and the under the foam the coils were all frozen solid with ice. Hence not allowing any drainage. I put a lamp in the freezer area and defrosted all the ice. In searching the internet i discovered that they no longer produce the foam so i went to home depot and got a piece of foam and aluminum foil and cut it to replace the ruined foam. I put the fridge all back together said a prayer and crossed my fingers and lo and behold it works perfectly now!!!!