JB940TD1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Looked up the part, ordered it, and it was there in 3 days. It was slightly different than the old control, but a very well-written set of instuctions detailed which wires to move to which terminal. The entire repair took about 30 minutes, including moving the range out, replacing the control, and push the range back in place. Works perfectly.

Removed panel to gain access, removed wires from switch from burner that was not operating and attached them to switch for burner that was working. Burner worked, problem identified. Replaced bad switch with new switch. Problem solved.

I first used an Allen wrench to unscrew the two screws that held the back of the oven door to the front. Then when I got that apart it revealed about 12 other screws that held the handle and trim vent piece on together. I unscrewed each of those with the socket set (it took me a while to find the exact size I needed). I took off the handle and trim piece and slid the new piece onto the slots, put the handle back on and then worked in reverse order to screw all the screws back into their places. The only problem was that I didn't realize some of the screws were a bit longer than others and by the time I took them all off and went to screw them back in, I realized that I hadn't noticed which places needed the longer ones and which had the shorter ones. So if you are doing this repair note that not all the screws are the same and you will want to remember which ones go where before putting them in a big pile like I did. After all the screws where in place I pushed the back of the oven door together with the front and used the Allen wrench again to screw them tightly together. Pretty easy overall- at least for a housewife!!

Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on, thats it...

Removed range from cabinets then approximately 6 sheet metal screws from the front of the range and two 1/4" sheet metal screws from the side to remove the front and top of the range. Lifted the cook top removed the two screws from the rotary switch and followed the directions included with switch to connect the wires. In reverse order reassembeled the range.
Quick & Easy

1- opened oven door
2- unscrewed 2 screws underneath top with a socket wrench
3- unscrewed clips that held burner
4-used needle nose pliers to pull off wire clips off old burner
5- placed wires onto new burner
6- opened clips to make it easier to reinsert burner
7-reattached burner
8-Replaced top

The hardest part was unscrewing the 2 screws that held the top in place due to the position of the screws

Pull range out of the "hole", and spin so that back of range is accessible. Remove cover over top "control area" on back of range. (Four screws that happen to be the same size as the magnetic socket that holds the interchangeable tip on a cordless screw gun. Simply remove this tip, and use the tip holder as a magnetic nut driver!). Remove the knob by pulling gently straight off. Remove black plastic retaining nut under where knob was. Inside are two small screws that hold the switch in place. Remove these screws with a magnetic screwdriver (If you drop these screws and lose them, you'll have a hard time finding them. Very small!!). Carefully follow enclosed instructions to move the wires from the old switch to the new switch. Put back together in reverse order.

A replacement Meat Probe did not correct the problem. Next replaced the Meat Probe Jack which corrected the problem. 1) To replace the Probe jack use 1/2" wrench to remove the nut and washer holding probe to a bracket on the top part of oven, just inside the oven door.
2) Unscrew two screws under the lip of the top burners, raise up the whole top, using a short stick to hold-up the top while you access the Probe Jack.
3) With your fingers gently follow 2-braded jack wires laying ontop of the insulation batting. The 2 wires run under the batting to the loose Jack. Carfully remove the old probe jack and install the new jack and secure with 1/2" wrench.
4. Pull stove out so you can get behind, unplug the stove and remove metal paneling covering back of control Panel. Locate the two braded wires running from front of oven over batting to a whole in rear oven wall, just below control panel. Replace new wires from the new meat probe jack, following the same route to back of stove. Carefully pull wires back and trace location to back of control panel. Unplug the old jack and replace the new wires, being careful not kink or fray the new wires. Replace back panel and plug in stove, lower and secure the 2 screws holding the burner top down. Check Probe on front of stove to make sure your getting a probe reading. Your done in a few minutes.

Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.

Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven temperature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.

Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.

Disconnected breaker. Removed knobs, plastic retaining nuts mounted to each switch shaft. Removed four 1/4 inch hex head screws on front panel and two screws securing defective switch. Removed bad switch, and replaced with new part. Took photo of wiring before removing old part. Referred to photo to ensure correct wiring of new part. Reassembled front panel in reverse order of disassembly. Turned breaker to on, and tested new switch. All worked well.

The first thing was to watch U-Tube . The replacement burner was being
replaced in a GE glass top range. Exter tools were required than depicted
in the U-Tube project. The project overall was not dificult for me however I was a general contracter for over 25 years

Consult the instruction guide that comes with the new part. Excluding doing some cleaning while things were apart, the operation took about 20minutes. 1. Open the oven door all the way. 2. Pull back the hinge latch on each hinge. 3. Close the door partially (about broil position). 4. Remove door by pulling so that hinges com out of the slots. 5. Carefully set door face down on a table so that inside of door faces up. 6. With a Torx driver, remove 2 screws at upper part of inside of door. 7. With a nut driver, remove screws at bottom of Door Bottom Channel Trim. 8. Lift inside of door off, being careful not to lose the spacers that are behind the door panel at the upper part of the door. 9. With the nut driver, remove 4 screws that hold bottom trim to the side trim pieces. 10. Remove the old trim and replace with the new. 11. Align the left, right, and bottom trim pieces. 12. Reattach the 4 screws that hold the bottom trim to the side trim pieces. 13. Carefully replace the inside door panel, making sure the spacers are aligned properly between the main door pieces. 14. With the Torx driver, replace the 2 screws at the upper part of the inside of door. 15. With the nut driver, reattach the bottom screws at the bottom of the trim piece. 16. Carefully reinsert the door hinges into the slots (the door must be in the approximate broil position). 17. When hinges are properly inserted, door may be opened all the way. 18. Push the hinge latches back into hinges to secure door to oven.

I pulled out the drawer and inserted the new support. This one inserts into the back of the drawer as opposed to the sides. I had ordered two of the replacements even though I only needed one and decided to replace both. I think it was a good move as the drawer works better than when we first got it. Just one simple screw made it complete.