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Burner not working
First, disconnect electrical power to the stove by turning the main fuse to the off position. Confirm that there is no electrical power in the stove. The ceramic top is held by 10 screws that are closest to the ceramic surface. Other screws hold other parts of the stove and not need to be touched when opening the stove. Once the ceramic surface is off there is access to the burners and the various lights and switches. It is important to determine whether it is the burner that is defective or the switch. Inasmuch as the switch has many moving parts, the switch is more likely to be the defective part. Check the switch by gaining access to the switch connections. There is a metal frame held by two screws on each side in the outside of the stove (same area where the initial 10 screws were removed to separate the ceramic surface). Remove these screws and flip the switch assembly so all the wires and cables are accessible. I checked the switch with a continuity tester and by trial and error determined that there were two connections that in all the remainder three switches had continuity when the switch was in the on position while the suspect switch did not. Replaced the suspect switch by pulling the wires and replacing them in identical positions in the new switch (a smartphone camera became very useful to remind me were exactly each cable's connection was). Restore power by turning the fuse to the on position. Check that the burner lights up. If not, change the burner as well. Same simple procedure of disconnecting and connecting cables to the burner). Make sure to disconnect power before working on the burner. Replace the screws that hold the switch assembly. Replace the ceramic top. Replace the screws. Set stove back in its hole. Reset fuse. Total time: 35 mins. Total cost: Approx $25.00 (switch + delivery). Quoted repair by local appliance repair service: $487.50. No contest. Next project is to fix a leaky water dispenser in the refrigerator.
1.Move range in position to access electrical wall disconnect and unplug. 2.Remove two 5/16 screws (located under top fwd. edge of cook top, Lift entire top assy up from front and prop with appropriate device(short 2x4 about18 inches long works well) 3.Remove two small phillips screws securing two metallic keeper devices holding burner assy in place. This should allow burner assy to be removed.4.Disconnect electrical spade connectors from ceramic terminal blocks on old burner assy.CAUTION: [SPADE CONNECTORS FIT TIGHTLY DO NOT PULL ON WIRES USE PRYING FORCE WITH FLAT SCREWDRIVER DIRECTLY ON TERMINAL].Remove connectors one at a time re-connecting to same location on new assy. Reassemble in reverse order.
My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),red] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.
Pull out Range and unplug from wall receptacle. Open Range door and remove 2 hex head screws with pliers. Screws located at top inside of range door opening. They hold the burner top in place. Slowly lift front of top burner section up and at same time slightly lifting back of burner section since it rests on 2 pivots. Prop front of burner section open, tilted back, with a piece of 2X4 maybe 2 1/2 ft. long. Make sure the 2X4 is located at the front/middle of range [resting on insulation] and at front middle of burner top to keep it opened firmly and balanced. You have about 5 or 6 wire clips to remove from elec. posts. Use pliers to gently remove clips. Tag the wires with tape to remember which wires go onto the new burner. Or take a close up picture with your phone to remember which wires go where. There are 2 philips head screws holding clips that hold the burner in place. The clips are slipped into a slot to help hold them in place. Mark the 2 slots so that when you remove the clips you will remember which slots to put them back into. You will need to hold the burner with one hand while you are removing the last clip as it could just fall out. Remove old burner and install new burner at same angle as was the old burner. You will have to make sure that the 2 clips are in the slotted openings first as you can not put them in place after the burner is installed in the opening. Reinstall the 2 screws into the 2 clips. Hold the electrical pole fittings with one hand while you gently reattach the electrical clips with a set of pliers. You may need to wiggle the clips back and forth to get them on securely. Remove the 2X4 and gently lower the burner top. The hardest part is now you have to slightly lift the back of the burner top while the front is lifted up and maneuver the back to drop down over the 2 pivots. Then the burner top will drop down in place so that the 2 screws in the range door opening can be reinstalled. I don't know of an easy way of making the top of the burner section fall down over the pivots except trial and error. Maybe use a flashlight to look back where the pivots are located while the top is propped open. That may help you visually to see what you are trying to do.
So easy. Took extra time so the wife would think it was harder. Just read the other reviews for instructions. Didn't have an issue with the wires pulling back into the oven though I did have my "clips" ready.
First unplug the unit from the outlet. Then remove the rear cover, covering the electrical wires. Disconnect the hot /ground wires from the element leads. Then open the oven door and use the nut driver to remove the inner screws to release the bake element. Insert new element and replace all screws and electrical leads. You're all done!
I removed the racks and oven door. I used a socket to remove the screws that secured the element. I pulled the element out to gain access to the wire connectors and used pliers to remove the wires from their connectors to the burned out element. I installed the new element by using the pliers to secure the wire connectors to the element and then installed the element with the socket thus securing the element with the screws.
Really easy even i could do it , it was a little fiddly and the wires disappeared into the back of the oven , i easily removed the rear panel and pushed the wires back thru and connected them , turned the breaker back on and sparks !! removed the rear panel again in 2 mins and saw that the wires were touching the oven frame and had shorted out , it wasnt a problem moved them slightly, reconnected them to the element tightened them up , put breaker on and Done , took about 45 mins but i could of been done in 30 with a little more care in the beginning of the job EASY !
I turned the breaker off to the stove and moved it away from the wall. I then removed the center cover off the back of the stove and exposed the wires connected to the bake element. I removed the wires from the bake element and then opened the oven and removed the two bolts holding the element onto the back wall of the oven. I discarded the old element and replaced it with the new first bolting the new in , then connected the two wires and replaced the rear cover. Turned on the power and made a cake.
Baking element cracked in half, so oven would not heat .
First, my husband removed the two screws that hold in the element. Unfortunately, my GE Spectra oven had extremely short wires. That was the only thing that made it somewhat difficult. So, he pulled the element out as far as he safely could, replaced it with the new one. No problem! As I said, the only thing that made it difficult was the short wires supplied by GE. The part came from PartSelect.com with no problems. I would definitely use this website again to order parts.
bottom heating element started sparing then cuaght on fire and burnt in half with no warning.
First I unplugged the stove. Then I removed the two screws inside the oven to remove the heating element. For safety purposes I removed the back panel from the stove also to get a complete view of what I was getting into. That was just 5 more screws and the panel came off and exposed what the heating element was plugged into. Very easy to unplug and reconnect, install the back panel then install the two screws for the heating element and it works just fine.
Bake element burned out very suddenly one noon as I was reheating leftovers.
I went online, found what I thought was the correct part, ordered it, received it--WRONG ELEMENT! HUBBY phoned parts company, very nice gal helped him find correct element, put new one in the mail to us, and we mailed back the wrong one. We received confirmation via email, and 3 days later installed the proper element. I am back to baking. I bake & mail cookies (55,000 to date) to our deployed troops, so I was lost without my oven! Thanks People!
