Enter the code DIYDAD10 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on June 17 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
igniter wouldn.t work
had to take back off of oven because of the connector and the plug end insert had the wrong pin so i had to take it apart and use old ones then i put the assembly in /and put oven back together
First I removed the botoom drawer. Second, removed three 1/4 in (head size) screws and removed the reflector pan from the bottom of the oven. Third I removed the three racks in the main part of the oven and then the two slot head screws that retain the oven floor. I then removed the oven floor. Four, now that I had access to the ignitor, I removed the two 1/4 (head size) screws that mounted the ignitor to the burner. Fifth I disconnected the wire plug which is located in the lower section of the oven. I was unable to route the wire with it's connector on out of the oven, so I just snipped the wires and took it out in two pieces. Installation was just the reversal of this with the obvious exception of snipping the wires. I was able to route the wires differently so that I did not have to pass the connector behind any restrictions. Finally afte all was reassembled, I did an ops check and everything worked just fine.
To get to the element I had to remove the lower cover from inside the oven.
After that I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. The wires are accessible from behind the undertray.
Installation of the new one was simply the reverse.
Before re-installing the burner cover I did a quick test to ensure the new igniter functioned properly and that I hadn't mis-diagnosed the problem. The element quickly started to glow and that was it.
some of electrodes not working at times,found were bad,wires had some insulation missing, clips looked burnt,found all new parts replaced
the electrodes on this model have to be removed before you can raise cooktop, once cooktop is raised remove wire from burner bracket, use needle nose pliers to squeeze bottom of clip,remove &replace with new parts.
Two set screws in rear; removed easily with a screwdriver. Old oven floor lifted out easily; new oven floor dropped in just as easily; set screws re-installed. Done. Pleasantly surprised at how easy this went.
I watched the repair video on YouTube and followed his instructions as much as possible. Went pretty well as I thought it would be harder. I’m pretty handy so, I was pleased.
PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.
Ordered part from customer friendly Part Select and received the replacement part within a few days, and installed it promptly. Wife is happy and stopped grumbling about oven bottom unsightly defect! Small price to pay for a happy wife! Ernie
Ignitor would glow at orange but not white. Not enough heat to open valve to let gas run
Got the general idea off a u-tube video. Very simple and would have been even easier had I used a 1/4 in nutdriver instead of socket. Removed 2 screws (flathead) on the lower cover of oven. Removed 1 nut holding shield. Removed 1 nut holding protective trap door on rear, pulled coupling through hole and disconnected. Removed 2 nuts holding ignitor. That's it. Replace everything in sequence and your done.