Removed panel to access the interlock switches. There were two. The button on one switch was fine and the button on the other would not depress. Ran a continuity test and it failed. The switch also had a burnt smell
With no wiring diagram, I was reduced to testing each component discreetly. The "Heated Dry - On/Off" rocker switch tested open in both switch positions. Replacement of it corrected the problem. I'd still love to see a wiring diagram to learn just where (and maybe why) in the circuit that silly switch interrupts current to the fill and pump-out solenoids. I would not recommend this repair without a wiring diagram for anyone unfamiliar with basic electricity and motor, solenoid, etc. operation.
Upper rack kept dropping from the wheels when we pulled it out
We knew roughly how we needed to put the cap on the rail, but our technique of simply forcing it in the end of the rail wasn't working. The trick is to bend the moveable part of the plastic cap inward while you're sliding it in, and it clicks right into place.
The location of the cap we were replacing was the upper back left, which made it a little tricky to reach back there and insert it, especially for a bigger guy like myself. We took the bottom rack out and my smaller wife was more easily able to lean in the dishwasher and reach back there to insert it.
Remove Base Access Panel; Removed Valve Mounting Bracket & Valve; Disconnected Wire Connector; Disconnected Supply Line & distribution Hose; Reversed the Process. Piece of Cake; Part was O.E.M.Component Exact Fit; Took Longer to Write this than it took for Fix. Thanks I Will Be Back for other Parts.!
1. Turn off water supply. 2. Remove the metal toe kick plate/insulation at the bottom of the dishwasher. 3. Remove hose to supply valve. 4. Take electrical plug off old valve. 5. Remove float valve because it was mounted it right in the way of the 2 screws on the inlet valve bracket. 6. Remove those 2 screws now you can get to them, and move the inlet valve to one side so you can get to the hose clamp for the rubber hose out of the valve going to the dishwasher. 7, Take the old valve and bracket out, mount new valve on the bracket, crawl back down on the floor, reinstall rubber hose and bracket, and float valve and finally inlet hose. 8. Turn water on. Check hose connections for leaks. Yep, outlet hose didn't clamp enough now, allowing a drip. 9. Repeat the whole process AGAIN. Replace little clamp with a REAL hose clamp, reinstall the thing again. No leak this time. 10. Test run dishwasher thru a cycle. Check again for leaks at hose connections. OK ? Reinstall insulation pieces and toe kick plate.
It was really simple. I watched the u-tube video to replace the top rack. I was able to complete removal of the old one and replacement with the new one in about 5 minutes. The lower rack simply pulled out and the new one slid right in. The quality of the replacement racks is much higher than the originals. I'm so happy I chose this easy and cost efficient repair.