HDA1100N10WH Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

First open the door and look at the corner tub baffles. They are in the bottom corners where the door seals with the tub and they look alike. Remove and replace one at a time making note of the orientation. Make sure they are firmly seated in the bottom and close the door and enjoy.

Really simple. Remove old corner baffles by just lifting out and replace with new. Close door to insure the door seal aligns with the new baffles and good to go.

Unscrew old stripped out one and put in new one ..wala!! Easy repair for this old lady...

Removed dish washer from cabinet area and snapped new clip into cable and hook into support.. The time that took the longest was to removed the screws to pull the unit out of the cabinet area.. Very easy fix...

While the delivery was swift, the new lower dishwasher rack wheels were narrower than the originals. The rack would fall into the lower area and not roll out easily on the channel. I removed the wide wheels from the old rack and exchanged on the new one. It took some brute hand strength but worked. Still not perfect, but better than rusted lower rack.

Removing two screws holding the bottom trim/sound baffle opened a view of water dripping from the water intake valve at the left front of my Monogram dishwasher. I then turned off the local (under my adjacent sink) separate feed valve for the washer, then opened the (dedicated) breaker for the machine at my breaker panel.

The replacement valve was identical form and fit to the original. It included the replacement mounting bracket integrated with the valve.

Removing two additional screws holding a bigger sound baffle backed with foam gave good access to replace the valve. The foam was fitted to the power box and a few other obstructions, and apparently stuck to something near the top. I ran my hand up separating the foam from the panel and both then came out easily. I reattached the foam to the panel with clear silicon adhesive.

Removing two screws from the front edge of the bracket holding the valve allowed dropping it down for fairly easy access to the clamp holding the flexible house from the valve to the washer. There wasn’t much slack, so I reached the spring clip with a long plier-like device with cups on the working sold as automotive hose clip tool for that purpose. Regular pliers would likely work, with more skin loss from hands.

That action then allowed pulling the valve out from under the machine (feeding slack in the flexible feed I have installed years ago between that valve and the one under my sink. A small adjustable wrench then made easy work of disconnecting the hose brass coupling from the valve.

The right-angle adapter between the valve body and flexible feed hose is apparently specific to the installation, so it had to be removed and attached to the replacement valve. That was facilitated by placing the valves in a large bench vise, clamping the mounting bracket with the right angle adapter up, and using the adjustable wrench again. The old valve had residue from metal pipe thread sealer, so I used some new sealer on the adapter when installing it. Take care. Getting some inside the valve might be a serious problem. Turn the adapter with the adjustable wrench for a snug fit facing the same direction as the plastic nipple for the machine-side hose.

Installation proceeded easily in reverse of the removal process, using a bit of care to fit that foam back around the intended machine projections. I actually used identical thread lattes screws (wider flange) to hold the upper baffle because I misplaced one of the original screws and decided to originals were distorting the mounting slots because the flanges were too small.

I ran the machine through two cycles before replacing the bottom trim, just to assure there were no leaks. Mild panic when the intake valve didn’t operate as soon as I expected, but it must have been some out of phase control operation, because it eventually operated, then operated as expected during the second cycle.

No repair; just replacement. Delivery was very fast.

No repairs needed, just replace the lower dishrack with 2 broken wheels with the new dishrack with the wheels already attached. Easy as A,BC or 1,2,3.

Check website, order part. Hardest part was determining which was the right part. Needed the axle--I call it the hanger. I had previously called and ordered, but only received the wheel with no way to attach it. Push the axle into the wheel. Push the axle onto the rack. Since it was new, it didn't slip right on, and had to push it hard. (However, when it snapped on, three of the other wheels and axles came off.) Had to put them back on as well. Much easier, as they were older and not as snug. Total time: Took longer to open the package than put it on.

just ordered the parts and sat them in place...I thought at first I would need a new dish washer...wow too easy finding the reason and the parts..thank you so much!! saved hundreds of dollars,ps I am a woman,not mechanically inclined

First I removed the excess water by using my shop-vac both inside the machine as well as near the bottom drain valve. After cleaning out that valve (which somehow had accumulated a pair of underwear) it was apparent that the drainage pump motor was no working (loud hum, not spinning). Replacement was easy, folowing instructions found everywhere on-line. Now the machine is working perfectly again.

door gasket dried out due to not using the dishwasher very often and needed to be replaced. removed door, replaced gasket, and re-installed door.

ordered new rack which was delivered in just a few days and out of the box in to the place were the old rack had been. old rack into the shipping box and into the garbage can. Sweet!

removed old baffle and cleaned area and installed new one

Water was leaking from under refer next to installed under counter dishwasher. Once determined to be dishwasher not refer I removed dishwasher toe place was able to see dripping inlet solenoid valve. I had to disconnect 11V power, shut off inlet water, disconnect inlet water house and remove dishwasher from under counter. Once dishwasher was in center of kitchen I flipped it upside down and removed the electric solenoid inlet valve. Removing the valve took one wrench to remove inlet hose then two wrenches to remove 90 degree brass fitting and another to hold solenoid. I used a nut drive to remove two screws that released the solenoid from the dishwasher frame. I used teflon tape to reattached the 90 degree brass fitting and inlet hose.