HDA1100N10WH Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

First, remove the bottom front covers (two parts four screws). Second, remove the two screws at the top that secure the dishwasher to the counter. Third, gently pull away the dishwasher from underneath the counter just far enough to see and be able to remove the door spring(s) - one on each side. Fourth, remove the existing hinge arm link(s) if not already broken off, replace with the new one(s). Note that the door hinge goes on the door (front) side of the spring and the other side fits into a groove on the door arm - the other end of the spring attaches to one of the 3 available holes on the frame at the bottom. It would be a good idea to replace the hinge arm links on both sides even if only one is broken. Make sure that the door has the right tension (each spring can be hooked in 1 of 3 holes to adjust the tension). Then gently push the dishwasher back under the counter. Finally, replace the screws under the counter and replace the covers on the bottom front. All of this should take no more than 15-20 minutes. This was an easy job!

Pop off End Caps with pliers. Slide Upper Dish Rack out of dishwasher. Pop off "interior" End Caps with pliers. Slide out Upper Rack Slides. Slide in new Upper Rack Slide just past second roller guide snap on new End Caps. Slide upper dish rack back into place. Snap on new End Caps.

simply removed broken valve and replaced with new valve, easy peasy. shipping was GREAT, Overnight. all in all a easy fix.

Easy repair. Just remove old and insert new.

First broke the tab on trying to get the sprayer arm out - had to buy replacement part. The tab to release the sprayer arm is on the BACK and can't be seen. FYI, pull the tab gently out from the back to release the sprayer arm. Problem wasn't a clogged drain. Next figured it had to be clogged in the Impeller and Seal assembly. Replaced that and realized the motor wouldn't turn. As an electronic engineer, determined the starting capacitor was defective. Found Mr. Nice GET (who owns Hotpoint) would not sell the capacitor, only the entire motor assembly for about $125.00 more or less. Found a capacitor at local motor shop with the correct value and hung it under the dishwasher. (wasn't the right package size to replace where the old one was). All is well - Finally.

Pulled out the rubber baffles. They had detiorated and lost their protective ribs which keep the water inside the dishwasher. No tools were needed, I just cleaned the area where they were located.

Placed baffles manually as instructed in the video. Easy repair with excellent on-line support and instructions.

i first order the corner baffles and put them in. no change at all, still leaked terribly. the old baffles looked pretty good so i kept them. i then ordered the door gasket and the insert. i removed the old one, put in the new, and still no change. i thought perhaps the machine hadn't been used at all because it was like brand new inside, and previously owned by 'a little old lady'. i decided to load it up and run it on a regular wash, and have done that three times now. it drips a very small amount on the left corner but i'm quite happy that it decreased so much. I think perhaps the seal might be setting with the heat of the cycle because each time a load goes through it get less and less drips from that corner. The first order was sent by ups and they couldn't find where i lived so i actually had to go pick them up, but the second order was sent fedex and they had no problem finding my home, and i was very pleased with how fast my order came.

Remove end caps on the slides on the upper rack pulled old rack out put new rack in push end caps back in

Pull rack out put wheel on put rack back

Disconnected power at circuit breaker, removed lower spray arm, fine filter, inlet cover, and sump cap - manually drained water from inlet sump, then laid dishwasher on its side. Removed motor/pump housing, collection chamber, and associated hoses from inlet sump and extracted inlet sump from inside the dishwasher. Reversed process to install new inlet sump, paying careful attention to ensure a leak-free repair. The problem was damage to the part of the inlet sump that receives the feed from the fine filter - the inlet sump material had been damaged when I tried to clear some debris, resulting in a less than perfect seal when the motor/pump reversed and attempted to push water out of the dishwasher. New inlet sump, perfect seal, all the pressure is now pushing water out of the dishwasher during the drain cycle. PartSelect diagnostic app and parts diagrams were instrumental in being able to repair the dishwasher for less than $25.00 versus a service call costing hundreds. Thank you.

after removing old door seal, and cporner seals,spent 15 minutes removing many years worth of crud. thensliped in the corner seals, and door gasket, time, about 10 minutes. didn't test, Iknew it would work---- it did.

big project remove old dish rack and replace with mew rack.

The part arrived in three days and matched perfectly. All I had to do was take out the old rack and set the new one on the track and close the door. We recently sold our house and want to leave everything clean and in good shape just as we would expect it to be. I wish replacing all parts was this easy. Bonnie Stanley

Removed the existing inner door by removing screws along the edge of the inside door. Had trouble removing the door latch but after lifting it on one side of the plastic door fitting, it eventually lifted out. I also had some trouble getting the spring loaded soap door back into the replacement inner door. After playing with it for awhile I realized that the soap door should be in the open position when putting the spring latch back on. The soap door won't close until you get the entire inner door mounted and back on. I also want to note the the inside vent in the upper part of the inner door needs to be removed from the old inner door and installed in the new one. I missed that at first and it allowed condensation to get inside the door which caused the dishwashers alarm to go off during the dry cycle. One last note that I initially decided not to replace the existing sound proofing material in the new door based on advice from a website that stated that I wouldn't notice the sound difference. That was definitely untrue. I had to disassemble the door, replace the sound proofing and then it sounded fine. Overall it was a little difficult to figure out but considering how inexpensive the replacement door was compared with a having a service repairman come out, it was worth the trouble.