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No levelers on stove/burnt out oven light
Leveler screw in. Adjust to height of counter top since stove has lip that rest on counter top. Oven lens cover difficult to unscrew. Use rubber glove to get better grip!
Easy repair for anyone! First, cut the power to your stove to be safe (breaker switch in the fuse panel). -Pull the stove out so you can get to the sides. There is a screw on either side, near the top of the side, and front. Unscrew both. -Remove the 2 screws on the top panel, and 4 screws underneath the front lip. -The front panel is now free. Peel off the old sticky touch pad, unplug the two ribbon connectors (push in on the locks on the sides of the plug-in), and set aside. -Thoroughly clean the surface , removing all sticky residue. -Plug the new pad in, peel back the sticky protective paper, and carefully align the new pad, pressing it firmly into place when lined up properly. - Set the panel in place, replace all screws, push the stove into place, turn on the power and bake a cake!
Hired a pro. Parts are difficult to get on a timely basis today , if at all. Screw up this repair by damaging the outer " black glass " and you buy a new stove. It took three weeks to get my replacement glass even though PS said the part was being sent within a day of the order. Even so , I am am happy to have gotten it , and will continue to use the company.
I took the door off and removed five phillip screws from the old bottom support and removed it. I took the opportunity to clean the glass on the front and back before placing it back on. It simply fits into two keepers at top and is held on by the new support at the bottom. I replaced the five screws and put the door back on. It is a simple job that only takes a few minutes.
1. Open oven door to first detent, then pull it up off the hinges. 2. Pull oven out from counter 10-12 inches. 3. Hinges are accessible from the outside of the oven. 4. Remove 2 screws on each hinge and remove old hinges. 5. Put new hinges in place and try to insert mounting screws. 6. Wonder why screws won't start in threads. 7. Examine new hinges and notice they are not threaded for the screws. 8. Screws are not self-tapping, so go to basement and get tap & die set. 9. Use 10-24 tap to make threads in new hinges. 10. Put new hinges in place and insert mounting screws. Tighten. 11. Pull hinges to first detent and put oven door on hinges. 12. Push oven back into place in counter.
No instructions with part, so I had to look up on internet. This took more time than installing it. Think basic instructions should come with the expensive part.
Dual inner element stopped working. The ceramic portion had a crack most likely from thermal stress over the years.
First I found a YouTube video for Maytag Range Repair – How to replace the Surface Element with Limiter - 6" - 1200W
The steps are very easy- 1. Open oven door and locate and remove 2 screws holding top cook surface. These are located near the top inside edge
2. Lift surface cook top and then remove 4 screws holding this section to the cook top. This may require 2 people but I was able to hold the cook top and loosen the 4 screws myself. Then put the cook top aside.
3. Take a photo of the element being replaced for wiring connections.
4. Removing the wiring and element holding clips was very easy. I used needle nose pliers for both
5. The clips have to be removed from the old element and put on the new one. Place them in the same locations
6. Make sure to reconnect the wires to the same pin locations. The replacement element I had the red (hot) wire pin 2b was in A different location so I had to use the extension wire supplied with the new replacement element
7. Put everything back together in reverse order.
Easy peasy, took me about 40 minutes to complete the entire replacement and have it back in place working.
Oven sensor caused cooling fan to run continuously. Had to flip breaker to get it to turn off..
Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.
SHUT OFF POWER AT BREAKER BOX! Remove oven door, use nut driver to remove two screws holding old element to back of oven. Pull forward to get wires into oven, remove wire clips from old part and re-attach to new element using pliers. Re-attach to back of oven, replace door. Turn on power and heat oven to burn off coating on new element. Not at all difficult, except for wire clips are at angle to wire, making re-attachment a bit difficult to do. DO NOT LOSE WIRES INTO BACK AS THEY WOULD BE VERY DIFFICULT TO RESCUE IN A JENN-AIR SLIDE IN UNIT LIKE OURS.
Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.
Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.
