GU1200XTLS3 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

First I shut off the power and the water then I disconnected the drain hose. Then I removed the dishwasher from under the counter and turned it up side down. I remover the pump retaining screw turned the pump, removed it. installed the new pump reinstalled the retaining screw. and reinstalled the dishwasher under the counter. I reconnected the drain and water then turned on the power. the dishwasher is working great. Thanks PartSelect for the fast delivery and the right part.

Went on line for trouble shooting, seen there were several like issues of the same with the most common being the fuse. Parts select had videos on repairs for this so I watched this then ordered the part which got there quicker than a Jimmy Johns sub.....removed the 8 screws in the door, they sent easy instructions had it done in less than 15 minutes....plugged washer in ran like new.....I will look forward to getting part from this company in the future

The dishwasher was so load I was sure the pump had a bad bearing. . . After reading the on line comments I examined the chopper and it looked ok. As it turned out the damage was on the shaft and caused the shaft to lock onto the screen without the ability for the spring to work it must have caused excess pressure making the loud noise. I replaced the chopper and now the dishwasher is very quiet again. To replace I took out the baskets and four screw on the big screen and one more screw on the chopper cover then I had to pull on the chopper with moderate force and install the new one . Then I put back the covers and basket. . . Very easy

Per your video if you watch the video and your the least bit handy it is an easy fix

The part was easy to install. But , you might have to unhook electrical, water, and drain. That is the time problem, part install is easy. All I had was a socket set, 1/4, drive fits. But a nutdriver would have been easier. WATCH the install video, great info!!!!!

Watched the video but my husband did not...He removed all screws from the door, including the control panel which he should not have unscrewed. The outside door panel was difficult to separate from the inner panel . The foam insert was stuck to it. Once it came apart, the dispenser had to be unscrewed (easy), disconnected and replaced.

We had to pull the dishwasher out the get the heating element brackets loose underneath. We had to put the new heating element in and then we had to figure out which code to program in to make it reset. the last one listed on the installation instructions was the one that worked. I think it was heated dry, normal, heated dry. It would be very helpful if the reset instructions were put in the manual by whirlpool. I am very pleased with my part that I ordered from PartSelect. It came within 2 days of placing the order.

Remove power to the machine. My particular installation did not require physically removing water and drain lines. Remove the dishwasher from the cavity. Put a towel or two down on the floor. Lay the washer on its face on the towels and this orients the motor in the up position on the bottom of the washer. CAREFULLY unplug the motor wiring harness but if possible, leave the heating element connection in place as spade connectors tend to lose their grip with multiple engagements. Remove the single bolt located between the motor and stainless bottom of the cavity that locks the motor in place. Leave it in the cardboard shield, that really helps in reinstalling it. CCW rotation of the motor disengages it from its housing. Work the motor straight up and out of the housing. This was the most difficult part of the entire process due to the metal housing not quite clearing the plastic pump housing where they mate, but its do-able. Nothing should have to be forced. Now you have the motor in hand. Be very attentive how and what order you disassemble. Remove the back of the motor housing to block the armature to remove the impeller. DO NOT NICK THE FIELD WIRING IN THE MOTOR. I believe the threads were left hand but I don't remember the rotation. They do tighten in the direction of the motor rotation though. Carefully pry the seal out of the pump housing with many short lifts as to not mar the housing itself. Added a little dishwashing detergent on the outside of the new seal and carefully pushed it into place with the end of my screwdriver. Don't cut yourself on the metal insert in the center of the seal.Reassemble the impeller to the shaft WITH the spacer that comes with the new impeller kit. Make sure the impeller is tightened down completely to the end of the threads to insure proper clearances when reassembled. Don't force or over tighten. You'll feel a positive stop. Reassemble the motor to the housing Lubricate the housing o ring seal on the outside with a VERY small amount of dishwashing liquid lest you create a suds factory on startup. Replace the holding bolt on the pump housing. Reconnect the motor leads and heater element if removed. Stand the washer back up. There will probably be water around the door area from the pump when the machine is returned to the upright position. Reconnect lines and check under the pump housing for leaks while in operation being careful not to get into moving parts or electrical connections. Good luck.

The video supplied showed me how to take the outer door off but in my case the door would not come loose. Since I did not know if there were other screws holding it I even removed the screws holding the control panel. The outer door still would not budge. After a long time of prying and testing I heard the unmistakable sound of something coming unstuck as I applied pressure to pull the outer door away from the inner door. With a little coaxing and very careful pulling the outer door came loose. The outer door had Styrofoam insulation in several places and under the intense heat of years of dying cycles, had melted and become stuck to the inner door parts. The new part went in easily but I did not tighten the screws enough and my first test some water seeped around the new unit and came out inside the door. I retightened the screws and all is well now.

Looked parts select site with the model of my dishwasher, found the place the piece belong to that came loose, order the part; it came in a 3 pc kit. Removed end clips of upper rack to take it out of the way, gently pulled the inside highest arm from ceiling of the dishwasher just enough to remove the worn small tac shaped plastic part & replacing it with the new one, then positioned the cone shaped plastic part into the spinner and snapped it into position. . . The part that was size of a tac was only worn out pc but needed replacing to hold the spinner in place.

First I had to figure out what was going on. After the 2nd time of being gone for about a week we came home to water on the floor around the dishwasher. After 1st time I thought leak started after starting dishwasher. Checked all connections while running but found nothing. Wrote it off as an anomoly probably due to a dried up seal that reseated. Realized after 2nd trip when we came back and found water on the floor it was when dishwasher had not been started. Figured the water was leaking thru the water inlet valve. To determine that I pulled dishwasher out and removed hose off from outlet. With dishwasher off, water was dripping out of the inlet valve with water feed on. Realized then that if I left dishwasher off overnite there may be a fair amount of water in the dishwasher. I was correct. If dishwasher was used every day or every other day we never had problem. Only when we left for a long period of time did we experience the leak. Funny thing is the leak was within the plumbing but after the inside of dishwasher filled it would start overflowing. To repair, first turned off power and shut water off. Pulled dishwasher out for easier access. Then it was a matter of removing outlet hose using pliers to pinch clamp to open, then removing screw that held bracket in place (nutdriver). This allowed easy access to remove fitting from old inlet valve using adjustable wrench. Once off I put new teflon tape on and threaded fitting onto new valve using adjustable again. Reinstalled bracket using nut driver and put hose back on using pinch pliers. All was good after that. Even checked water in the dishwasher tub after a nite or 2 of no use and no water leaking in at all. Just like new.

The fault code suggests a problem with the washer's ability to maintain water temp. This could be caused by a failure of the tempurature sensor module, safety over-temp thermostat, or the heating element. First, I disconnected AC power at the Mains panel. I then verified that the heating element was indeed at fault by removing the dishwasher and disconnecting the leads to the heating element in the rear of the unit. I set a multi-meter to resistance and measured the element and found that it was electrically open, thus proving it was the part needing replacement. I then tested the replacement element and verified it showed low resistance. (Good). I then loosened the plastic retaining nuts with an adjustable wrench, removed the old element and replaced it with the new. The nuts were then re-installed and torqued with enough force to create a leak-tight seal as verified by pouring a gallon of water in the washer. I reconnected the leads and slid the dishwasher back into place and secured it to the counter with screws. I then turned power back on at the AC Mains panel.

Pulled two clips off the rack and removed the tine row. Put the new tine row in, had to put both clips on at the same time. Very glad that the clips we had were not bad, because if they were, we would have had to order new clips too. They might consider including that with the tine row. Otherwise a fairly simple job.

Watched the video several times and made notes. The video is excellent and by following the procedure outlined it was like painting by the numbers. I could have done the job in under an hour but I'm slow and doubled checked everything as I progressed. My only remark is to make sure after snapping the dispenser in the door make sure the unit is all the way to the right before tightening the screws.

I did not take the complete wash assembly out, after removing both upper & lower racks, I took out the top screw just behind where the spinner sits. I pried the tube down &was able to pop out the plug, then I inserted the new spinner & new plug & snapped them together, I was pleased at just how easy it was, just goes to show even us girls can make repairs! Nora in Peoria AZ.