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GSL25JFTABS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for GSL25JFTABS parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the GSL25JFTABS
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I had a water leak (undiscovered) from under my refrig

  • Customer: Daniel from Anderson SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
After de-energized unit (by removing electical plug from outlet),I removed the rear panel at bottom of unit. I then removed the mounting screw to the water valve. I then disconnected the wiring assembly from the old unit. I then removed the water supply lines going to the icemaker and water filter. I then placed the water supply into the replacement water valve. plugged in wiring assembly to new unit and rehung water valve inside refrig. Turned water valve on at water supply to check for leaks, finding none I then replaced back panel on refridge and plugged in electrical cord and returned refrige to normal place in kitchen.

The compartment behind control panel with snow

  • Customer: Victor from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I have unlock the black panel. With a screw driver I have removed 2 screws and removed 3 conectors from circuit board. So, I had access to solenoid set. From this point on was intuitive. Very easy.

I recomend these parts be replaced once time for each two years.

Water if refigerator door is really slow. Ice making is really slow.

  • Customer: Fred from Edgartown MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Used by pass filter and problem disappeared. Of course wayer is now unfiltered. This is a GE design flaw. Also replacement filters are outrageously expensive and do not last long. We have good water here and I'll stick with the bypass.

Main circuit board wouldn't allow the compressor to come on

  • Customer: Leonard from Keller TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old circuit board and replaced with new

Ice door would not open far enough, ice would get stuck in chute

  • Customer: ERIC from MADISON AL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 20 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
First remove about 30 screws w/nutdriver that are hidden under door seal then inside of freezer door will come off. Second remove about 10 screws that hold dispenser assy to the inside of door, then support the unit with tape so you don't damage the wires that connect it. Third, pop touchpad loose, then remove three sets of wires plugged into the circuit board. Fourth, remove four screws that hold the ice chute and light assy. Fifth, now remove the 3 screws that hold solenoid. These three screws that hold the solenoid will be very rusty, you may want to replace these also. I went ahead and replaced all the related parts because they are so hard to get to. Also took the opportunity to clean in here with bleach to remove all the black mold and rust.
NOTE: when reassembling the inside of the freezer door to the outside of the door you must loosely attach the door on both sides in the middle first, then the top and bottom. Add some more screws on each side and tighten them all. Now you must check to be sure that the door is not racked. If the door is not sealed at the top or bottom, loosen the screws and twist the door a little and tighten screws and check door again for proper seal. Spent more time adjusting door to seal right than doing the actual repair.

Noticed pieces of broken plastic in my ice cubes.

  • Customer: G from Spring Hill FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Of course, the first thing I did was remove the ice cube container from the freezer, and dump the ice cubes. (Conservation note: If you're in a place with water conservation rules, dump the cubes in a big pot and save them. If they melt, use the water for your house plants.) Following the advice from another DIYer, I let the container warm up before doing anything further.
Turned the container (I'll call it the "tray" from now on) over, removed the two screws holding the front cover with the Phillips screwdriver, gently pulled the cover out to disengage it from the rest of the machine.
Getting the next part out was tricky because it didn't want to release just by pushing in on the tabs on either side of the front assembly. That's where the two table knives came in, courtesy another reviewer. Be careful here not to jam or twist too energetically because the plastic housing is still quite breakable.
Just to be safe, I unscrewed one more screw that held the little bracket holding the rod with the spring on it and disengaged it. Then I discovered that I had to unclip the part that holds the auger in the front part of the assembly and slide the auger out of the way so I could pull the broken part out.
Having done all that, putting the new part in and reassembling the whole thing was pretty easy.
Slide the new part in, carefully rotate the auger back into its place, slide that assembly back into place, replace the clip holding the end of the auger, be sure the long rod engages the ice crusher gizmo, replace the screw that holds the rod in place, hook the front of the drawer back into the proper slots, rotate the cover back into position and replace and tighten the two screws.
You're done! The ice cubes you took out will probably still be frozen, so you can dump them back into the tray and slide the tray back into the freezer.
If you're cleverer than I am, maybe you won't need to do all the little things I did, but even so the whole exercise took less than 15 minutes--the ice cubes didn't even melt!

Plastic support rails of veggie and deli drawer broke

  • Customer: Roibert from Sanford MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I looked at the first problem for about a year thinking that I would get to it. But when the deli drawer support broke, we were in trouble. Or I was. My wife demanded that I fix it or she would make "THE CALL". And that meant some real cheese - and not from the deli drawer, either.

When I found your website (by chance) it was the first that used exploded views to help identify specific parts. This was the first of the 3 sites that I had looked at that did that and this method clicked with my way of looking at things.

From there it was easy to identify the correct parts, make the order and then have about three days of peace until the parts arrived. Looking for a few brownie points, I installed them while my wife was out shopping and had everything back together by the time she got home.

Thanks for your fast service and your friendly website. If I need help again, I'll be getting back with you.
Bob Pomeroy
Sanford, MI

Auger asm had broken off part of blade at end of auger and would not rotate ice out of dispencer.

  • Customer: rocky from hartsville SC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Removed 3 screws from end of ice storage box,then removed auger asm.Removed c clip on end with flat screwdriver, then disasembled ice crusher blades and nylon/plastic washers.Carefully staging them for reassembly in the correct way.Use pliers to reinstall c clip after new auger is installed

Ice maker quit making ice

  • Customer: Jeffrey from Bluefield WV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
the first thing i did was replace the water valve at the bottom of the refrigerator but that didn't work so then i spent more time researching the problem on your site and your diagnostic said to replace the ice maker so i ordered it, took the old one out, plugged the new one in and we had ice the next day.

fridge wouldn't cool, frozen food thawed

  • Customer: John from Milford UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 13 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
First my wife and i took the panel off the back, unscrewed the old mainboard, unplugged all the switches from it and prayed that the new one would work. We were without a fridge for 2 weeks beginning 2 days before Christmas!!!!! Gingerly, we put the new board in place, screwed it into the fridge, connected the switches, attached the ground wire, and held our breath as we plugged it back in. Within seconds, the familiar sound of water filling the icemaker was hear and there were cheers all around!!!

BOTH SLIDES WERE BROKEN

  • Customer: John from Charlotte NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I REMOVED THE SHELF, UNSCREWED THE SLIDE
RAILS AND REPLACED THEM WITH NEW ONES.
I REPLACED THE SHELF, PUT THE FOOD BACK IN AND I WAS DONE.

THANKS,

JOHN BOWERS

GE Profile Refrigerator Plug for Water Filter

  • Customer: Linda from Liberty NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Called partselect and gave my model number for the frig. I wanted a filter plug because we did not need a frig filter. We have a whole house filter. They looked up the part, took my info, and sent it to me by UPS. It arrived fairly quickly and fit the frig perfectly. I screwed it into place immediately. It was the simplest order I have ever placed and the salesman was very pleasant and proficient. If I have more issues with my frig, I will call partselect again. Just remember to turn off the water before you start.

freezer coils not thawing and fridge getting warm.

  • Customer: Gerald from Ada MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Replacing the heater is very easy. Remove the wire racks and the two lower rack bracket screws. Remove the two screws to the back panel, unclip the ground wire and remove the panel. Two screws hold he heater on and two wires for the connection.
However, this did not solve my problem. The story is this. The fridge was getting warm because the coils were freezing over. I called the local repair guys "poncho and lefty" and they came out and replace the themostat and charged me $150. It still froze over a week later. They came back and said it must be the circuit board and charged me just for the $125 part. Nope, it still froze over in a week. So I thought I would take things into my own hands and tell poncho and left to hit the trail. I then ordered a new heater because the old one looked bad even though it checked out okay with an ohm meter. Unfortunately, that didn't solve the problem either. The last thing is to replace are the temp sensors. But before I ordered anything I submitted my problem to a "fix it" forum and someone suggested to check the part number of the themostat that was put in. This turned out to be a brilliant observation. It seems poncho and lefty replace the thermostate with one that is used with a timer. This fridge has the timer built into the circuit board and has a very different temp range than the one they replace it with. Their first clue should have been that the wires were a different color than the one they were replacing and that the part number was totally different than the one they took out. So I ordered a new thermostat and the three temp sensors and replace all of this and the unit works as good as new. The forum also told me that the bullet shaped temp sensor were faulty and should all be replaced, which I did.
Now I have all new parts, so it should be good to go until the compressor takes a nose dive. Hopefully, that will not be for 5 or 6 more years.

"Moaning Myrtle" syndrome. Refrigerator makes a whooing sound for hours at a time

  • Customer: Stephen from Spring TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Checked the internet for reports of similar problems and concluded that it was probably the main control board. Not being particularly handy, I would never have attempted to change the board myself if I had not read the comments and instructions from people on this site. Thanks.

The job was as straight forward as others have described. The only time I had a problem was pushing in the white tab to be able to pull the old board out. That was a bit of a fiddle.

The only thing I found different was the grounding wire. On the original board, this wire was at the bottom of the board and hooked into a wire that ran into the refrigerator. On the new board, the wire was at the top of the board and had a metal loop on it. If I understand it correctly, with the new grounding system the wire is pushed into the space above the board. Then when the back plate is reattached the metal loop makes contact with it , thus grounding the refrigerator.
I chose to run the grounding wire through the original wire into the refrigerator. That meant cutting off the metal loop, slicing in an extra piece of wire to connect the grounding wire on the board to the grounding wire into the refrigerator.

I also now use a surge suppressor for the refrigerator. The “Moaning Myrtle” syndrome started after Hurricane Ike. I suspect the surge when the power was restored damaged the control board. And as so many people seem to have this “Moaning Myrtle” problem, I suspect the control board has little or no surge protection.

Solenoid had become rusted/crank door wouldn't close

  • Customer: William M from Ft Myers FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
First, had to use punch tool to pop out electronic face panel. Face unit still connnect via wires. Use painters tape to hold against refrig. Next, Remove ice/water dispenser and also tape to door. This will give you access to solenoid. Remove the 3 screws holding it in place and unplug fsolenoid from Face Panel. Screw new solenoid and place and connnect to Panel. Goood idea is to unplug regrig. while doing this and put a little WD-30 on shaft of solenoid. May want to order new screws, could be rusty, that hold solenoid in place. Sounds a bit complicated but not that bad a job. You'll save over$100 over GE's service.
All Instructions for the GSL25JFTABS
76-90 of 1,406