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The rollers on the upper rack broke
There are eight guides that hold the rack rails in place. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the top two guides on each side in order to remove the rack from the dishwasher. The plastic axles on the rack and the rollers snap on. Use the hammer and punch to bend the metal clip on one end of the rail. Remove the plastic end piece then slide the rollers out. Place two new rollers in the rail and put the plastic end piece on. Use the hammer and punch to bend the metal clip back into place. Snap the rails on the rack and set the rack on the guides in the dishwasher. Replace the top guide using the screwdriver, you will have to twist the rails in order get them in between the guides.
Unsnapped clip,and moved it 90 degrees. Slip wheel and clip off. Installed clip on new wheel. replaced new wheel. The wheel did not come with a new clip and was not suggested on the parts list. The existing clip was still OK but if it was not, I would have had to order a clip and wait. All in all, a good experience.
Open the tiny plastic package in inserted the wheel onto the "axle". Opened the dishwasher, pulled out the bottom rack and snapped the wheel onto the rack. Done!
The wheels came with a clip on part that clipped to the rack and the wheel snapped into that clip. I am a woman and it was easy for me to do. Thanks to Parts Select for being an easy to use and navigate site, for quick shipment and for good directions with the parts. Sincerely, Teresa from Alabama.
The stud assembly in the middle of each wheel no longer stayed inside the wheel.
Just pulled off the old wheel. I just had to push in the stud to the wheel and pushed it on to the rack of the dishwasher. Very easy repair! Only disappointing part was that it bothered me to have to purchase the stud with the wheel. I was told they only came as the set. I only needed to purchase that inside stud. My wheels were fine.
I had never done work on my dishwasher - I was a rookie in this area. Turns out the work itself was quite simple. Pulled the dishwasher out, turned it over, and was able to easily replace the motor and pump assembly. The drain tube was also an easy replace. A couple key notes:
1. I also purchased a new drain solenoid and impeller kit. Note that both of these items are already included in the Motor and Pump kit replacement. There is no need to by both, now I have extras.
2. The end of the drain tube has to be trimmed if you are routing the drain tube to an air gap mounted on your kitchen sink. You have to cut the large diameter end of the tube to get to the narrow portion that will fit on your air gap.
3. The first cycle you run with the new motor/pump assembly is noisy. When you first fire it up the components in the pump are all dry, and they squeal until the water gets to them. I initially thought I had done something wrong, but once the water started flowing all the peculiar sounds cleared up.
1. I removed the plastic stops from the ends of the upper rack slides. 2. Removed the upper rack. 3. Unclipped the old rollers from the rack. 4. Clipped the new rollers onto the rack. 5. Made a grunting noise so the wife could hear. 6. Walked away
I removed the four screws holding the screen and molded plastic cage inside the rear of the dishwasher to expose the check valve assembly. I then unscrewed the piston and nut assembly with my hand and replaced it with the new one. I found that the rubber cone shaped valve on the old piston and nut assembly was entirely disintegrated. This easy repair solved the problem.
Noticed a small seepage of water at the lower corners of the dishwasher door. Gasket had become hard and unpliable. Bottom part of gasket had come out of channel and would not stay in place.
I had replaced the door gasket a few years earlier and had difficulty fitting the gasket around the bottom corners. This time I removed the plastic inner door panel for complete access to the gasket channel. I opened the new gasket package and let it stand unrolled overnight to remove the kinks. Once the old gasket was removed I took a thin piece of wood wrapped with a cloth to clean out the gasket track. The gasket snaps in easily. Be careful not to over stretch the gasket around the bottom corners. The curve of the gasket will resemble the curve of the door panel when set correctly. This is where I had trouble earlier when I tried to set the gasket in the channel with the door panel still attached. It is much easier to do this with the door panel removed.
Dishwasher leaks from bottom of door......when operated.
Removed 7 screws holding "inner door" in place ( note: 2 bottom screws are different than the rest...keep separate).....remove rinse aid plug....press "tabs" inward to release rinse aid container. ( in this instance....the gasket had failed...which was "part" of the reason dishwasher was leaking during operation)
install new rinse aid container ...making sure that "trip arm" is positioned correctly........and press into place. ( Tabs should expand when container is properly positioned...creating a tight seal).....reuse old rinse aid filler plug.
Replace "inner door" cover....tighten screws.....
remove faulty tub corner baffles....place new ones in corresponding positions ( the baffles form a suction .....to stay in place....no adhesive needed)
Close door and operate as usual........no more leaks!
This is a super easy "no brainer"...that would have cost about half the price of a new dish washer ...had I hired a "professional" to do the repairs!!!!
Opened package from Parts Select. Removed Silverware basket from package. Opened Dishwasher. Inserted Silverware Basket in rack. Closed Dishwasher. Discarded shipping package. Told wife I fixed Dishwasher. Sat down & had a beer.